Hello first post here on this website hopefully I can get some help with this. I am going to start this off saying I did a complete motor swap b20b and the car was running flawless no issues it drove my to work etc. for a few months. My car went into limp mode and I couldn’t read any codes because the last owner of my car took out the obd1 jumper thing. I was told it could be my chip in my ecu went bad so I ordered a new basmap and the car went out of limp mode and ran amazing for another couple months untill the car started to die out at around 2k rpm. It was a different type of limp mode. I did what any normal 18 year old kid would do and I put the old chip back in drove the car for 5 minutes then put the new basemap back in and just like that the car ran great again. Untill the car started to feel like it was hesitating etc in every gear showing signs that the tps is bad.(no cel) My car did not throw a CEL until I took my tps off and readjusted it. So I thought ok tps is bad, bought a new one for cheap threw it in and calibrated it and still I had a CEL. I have power ground and signal so I assumed I bought a bad tps. After reading though another forum people said I can read codes though the pin in the ecu as well if I ground it so I did and to my suprise I can finally read my CEL codes. AND GUESS WHAT CODE IT THREW! CODE 7 TPS. I just assumed I bought another bad sensor because it was a 20$ Chinese one off Amazon, so I went to o’Reillys and got a doorman put it on my car calibrated it and still the same CEL pops up. I’m at a loss. I just want to drive my car. And I just seems to have a permanent CEL. (THE CEL IS PUTTING Me in LIMP MODE and is running my car Extreemly rich) I’m just confused to how wires could go bad like that ? The car was running so good the tps was reading no issue I was flying around town having a great time. And now with this issue bruh

 

Also I am getting signal power and ground to my tps but on my ecu pin for the signal wire I am not reading any Voltage for throttle position. Ok so what can I do from here i am just so stumped

 

 

UPDATE:
ECU was not getting the tps signal but the tps itself was getting ground and 5v power. So I concluded somthing went wrong with the connections so I found a ghetto solution by hardwiring another wire from my tps sensor wire to the d11 pin in the ecu.
check Engine light did turn off, so I found the first issue but it’s not all over unfortunately.

Car doesn’t drive the same at all it feel like it’s very underpowered and somthing seems off it’s not the same pickup as the car once had (b20b hi comp) (it takes the car wayyyy longer to get up to speed supper sluggish)

my tps calibration is still off because there is no possible way to get the car in the .45/.5 - 4.5 volt range because the tps is maxed out in one direction (OEM tps)

lowest I can get is .68 closed and 4.8 WOT this leads to me having a tps CEL at WOT that seems to not go away no matter how I adjust my tps.

I have seen many people say to pop out the rings and then adjust the tps it’s kinda works but the issue with that is even if you get it in spec the car is still wonky and throws the tps code at wot. I’m definitely still at a loss but imma keep it pushing ig.

if nobody can help me figure this out this type of issue cause its hella hard to help someone through a screen I’ll try to get this figured out by myself and help some people out along the way with similar issues.