Fuster_Cluck

I'm getting NO power for the radiator fan. I tested the terminals were the radiator fuse goes and NO power. The hazard (flashers) terminal have power so I know I am using the multimeter correctly.

It looks like it's either take the car into the dealer or wire the fan to a toggle switch / accessory power source.

A lot of people have said to just wire the toggle switch in. But, I also was told if the motor is not hot enough the vtec will not work correctly.

So, I would just like to hear experiences using toggle swiches for the radiator fan.

If you remember where are some good / easy to access locations to tap in for the power source? Also, what gauge wire should I go with? I'm thinking 12g. but not quite sure.

Thanks for any help / opinions!

fastwanabe

you should test the temperature switch, that sensor triggers the relay to turn the fan on. The sensor is the 2 prong sensor above the oil filter.HTH

bigblockEG

I actually run it constant off of the ignition in the summer, dont know why, just a habit

ScottEK

12 guage is a little large I'd guess, the only thing I'd be concerned about is that 1 time you dont pay attention and forgot to flip the switch.

Fuster_Cluck

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fastwanabe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you should test the temperature switch, that sensor triggers the relay to turn the fan on. The sensor is the 2 prong sensor above the oil filter.HTH</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm not getting any power from the fuse box. I had the same problem with my Cx motor before I yanked it. It can't be the motor.

Fuster_Cluck

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beta13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">12 guage is a little large I'd guess, the only thing I'd be concerned about is that 1 time you dont pay attention and forgot to flip the switch.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is why you wire it to an accessory wire that only gets power when the key is turned to the "ON" position. Kind of like the radio. When you take the key out the radio turns of even if you left the power on before pulling the key.

Constant power
Accesory power

ScottEK

Yeah I know that, actually most honda fuse boxes have accesorry power outlets that you can tap into. What I'm talking about is when you dont turn on the fan and overheat because it is not automated.

Fuster_Cluck

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beta13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah I know that, actually most honda fuse boxes have accesorry power outlets that you can tap into. What I'm talking about is when you dont turn on the fan and overheat because it is not automated.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Probably would keep it on 90% of the time, especially in the HOT weather.
Anyhow, I constantly monitor my cluster. It's a habit.....

madman13lm

This is actually a very popular mod in the domestic world being that they run so hot. My friend did this on his 97 trans am. He has a toggle switch that goes from off, low, or high and has two LED's, one green for low and one red for high. Its a simple radio shack mod. Im sure you can find the instructions to do it somewhere, I plan to do it to my car. He has it so that the computer can turn it on if it needs to but he can turn it on when he wants to as well. I hope this helps.

sleeper4dr

this is simple...

just find your cooling fan relay via your HELMS manual, then determine which wire runs to your coolant temperature switch. it will be the wire that doesnt have power or ground. wire your switch into that wire and you'll be set. the CTS only provides ground for the relay anyhow.

this would allow the CTS to run the switch when the engine heated up, or you could run it manually also. does require running wires through the engine bay though.

dont worry about the car never warming up enough to use vtec. i have my cooling fan constantly on (bypassed the CTS because its busted ) and even in cool weather ( &lt;50 degrees) the engine still warms up enough.

lsvtec101

iTrader: (1)

i have it on my ls swap just because the sensor was busted in the ls motor i got and spent the money on a switch and did it myself.. Positive and ground wired right to the switch and the remote wire goes to the positive on the fan and then a ground. i turn it on if im crusin around but soon as i start racing i flip it off just cause it has a big draw on my lil dx alt. and i notice a difference when driving with it on and off..

Fuster_Cluck

Just wanted to say that I wired the fan into a toggle switch under the dash. I just leave it on and now the temp. needle goes about 1/3rd the way up the Cx cluster CEL is off as well and vtec sounds awesome

Just got to get the GSR cluster in now