Fuster_Cluck

I've done about 170 miles on my Eg (93) / GSR (98 usdm) Hybrid in about a week.

I heard that I should change the oil (Mobil 1 (5w-30) is what I'm using), tranny, and coolant at about 300 miles. The motor has 53k on it. I'm thinking about just changing the oil and tranny at 300-400 miles and getting the complete $80 flush on the coolant from the Honda dealer.

What do you guys think?

PS <> The fluids I use:
Oil - Mobil 1 5w-30
Tranny / Coolant - OEM stuff (guy at the dealership hooks me up )

Formula 1

im kinda in the same position...ek wit jdm gsr...and this is my plan for break in

400-500mi 1st oil change wit castrol gtx 10w-30(no vtec)
900-1000mi 2nd oil change wit same...also fuel injector cleaner ( no red line)
1400-1500mi 3rd oil change wit same octane booster (no redline or dyno)
2000 - switch to full syn mobil1 and then dyno after 300 miles on syn.

just what me and my buddy found is a good way...he recommended kendalls and that purple stuff for oil first but i said its not readily avail so i wanted soemthign that was. ne ways let me know what u do wit yurs of if u have ne questions

Fuster_Cluck

I'm going to change my oil tommorrow (approx. 400 miles) with Mobil 1 5w-30. What's in there now

I'm thinking about next week when off getting the coolant flush from the Honda dealer. It's $80 but they clean the entire system where I can only drain from the radiator. This is something I am thinking about doing every 50k. I'm going to do a search on the coolant flush, but what do you think about the coolant flush?

Should I change the tranny fluid as well or just wait until 30k or whatever it is?

Thanks!

EK22Tim

I personally changed all my fluids after 1000 miles, just to be on the safe side. The coolant looked fine, but the oil was a bit dirty. Tranny fluid came out clean, but I felt better doing it.
The clutch fluid has some goobers in it, so that will be done ASAP. (havent had time to do it yet) I would change them whenever you feel comfortable.

RangerDan

Im going 500 miles then changing all fluids.

43MA

i don't get why you guys are doing a break in
the motor is used and has miles on it

just change ALL the fluids at once and continue with your regular maintence schedule

ps... well actually all i did is run mineral 10w30 for a little while and flushed everything out before i went synthetic

AMG

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Steady &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i don't get why you guys are doing a break in
the motor is used and has miles on it

just change ALL the fluids at once and continue with your regular maintence schedule

ps... well actually all i did is run mineral 10w30 for a little while and flushed everything out before i went synthetic</TD></TR></TABLE>


YES and NO......Im swapping my jdm GSR in my 93 hatch two days from now and here is all you need to really do.

Change all fluids during swap
Change oil at time of swap and use one quart of oil and let it run straight through your engine and out the drain to flush any materials that may have gotten in there.
300-500 miles-change oil and oil filter
Thats it......besides that dont run he car hard until after you have broken it back in after 300-500 miles of driving. (Dont be afraid to hit Vtec, just dont go drag racing the momentyou install the damn thing. Remember it is a used engine so you are really RE-breaking the motor in.

RangerDan

I agree with that. You dont know who had the motor so kinda take it easy for a short time (good luck) and change the fluid in 500 miles again to make sure all possible contaminents are out of the system.

I put about 3.5 miles on my swap before I banged her a bit lol.

743power

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SikCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im kinda in the same position...ek wit jdm gsr...and this is my plan for break in

400-500mi 1st oil change wit castrol gtx 10w-30(no vtec)
900-1000mi 2nd oil change wit same...also fuel injector cleaner ( no red line)
1400-1500mi 3rd oil change wit same octane booster (no redline or dyno)
2000 - switch to full syn mobil1 and then dyno after 300 miles on syn.

just what me and my buddy found is a good way...he recommended kendalls and that purple stuff for oil first but i said its not readily avail so i wanted soemthign that was. ne ways let me know what u do wit yurs of if u have ne questions
</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is almost identical to one of the break in procedures listed on team-integra.com. That break in procedure was designed for a brand new freshly assembled motor with new rings. I've never heard of anyone doing redicilous break ins like this on a used motor.

Fuster_Cluck

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RangerDan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I put about 3.5 miles on my swap before I banged her a bit lol.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I went around the corner which was about .2 miles

Actually, didn't get on it to hard, because vtec was not working at the time. But, of the 400 miles I've put on it in 2 weeks, I've ran it hard probably 12-15 times

It's just a new toy for me and I couldn't resist.

EK22Tim

I didn't re-break ANYTHING in. I just wanted to be sure that the contaminants that may have gotten into the engine in the yards, shipping, on the boat, etc. were out of there before I ran it hard, that's all. Just trying to protect my investment. As I said, after my first oil change, I noticed the oil was very dark so I'm glad I did. My coolant had little chunks of stuff in it too when it was flushed. I have no idea what got in there, or anything. Just better to be safe than do unnecessary harm on your new (read: new to you) motor over something as stupid as an oil change, IMO.

Formula 1

wel bout my engine break in thing on a used engine i fig. it this way....everyboyd seems to be giving me crap fro takin it easy on the motor and doing the full break in....but which looks dumber driving it easy and takin care of your motor or blowing a fresh swap in 2000 miles or less...come on lets be realistic here.....and thats my own break in nobody told me to do it i didn't get it from ne where so its just my thing....i will be laughin when u guys blow yurz wit no break in.....besides i can't hit vtec cuz im working on this damn check engine light wit knock sensor no signal so vtec won't engage ne ways so whats the point besides it keeps me restrained

AMG

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SikCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wel bout my engine break in thing on a used engine i fig. it this way....everyboyd seems to be giving me crap fro takin it easy on the motor and doing the full break in....but which looks dumber driving it easy and takin care of your motor or blowing a fresh swap in 2000 miles or less...come on lets be realistic here.....and thats my own break in nobody told me to do it i didn't get it from ne where so its just my thing....i will be laughin when u guys blow yurz wit no break in.....besides i can't hit vtec cuz im working on this damn check engine light wit knock sensor no signal so vtec won't engage ne ways so whats the point besides it keeps me restrained</TD></TR></TABLE>

Should have took your time more on the wiring-j/k

No but seriously, no one is saying that its BAd what your doing, their just saying its not nessesary. Yes it is better to be safe then sorry, but others wouldnt take it to that extreme with a used motor, but then again like you said " Its your way of breaking in a motor" and i totally agree!

Formula 1

if u ever done a swap or u have my luck these kinda things happen no matter what