boostn5Ghaba

I'm thinking of going lsvtec but I want to be able to rev atleast 8k safetly. Can someone tell me what I need. thanks

92Si

I would suggest a newer head (PR3, etc.) that has low mileage valvetrain as you do not want to rev any OLD head too high. If you are going to use an old head, have the valvesprings replaced with stock OEM or upgrade to ITR, crower, etc.

If you are going to use stock rods, get some ARP or similar rod bolts to hold it together. Be sure to keep your fuel in check, if the swap is going into a civic or something with a puny fuel pump, you may want to upgrade in that area. If you are going to take the motor apart (or build from the bottom up) you may want to invest in some stronger aftermarket rods.

Now you say you want to rev safetly to 8k RPM, but that doesn't count the one time you misshift and rev to 9500 So be sure to get an ECU that can be modified to have a decent rev limit (8000-8200 RPM) or install an aftermarket rev limiter.

That pretty much takes care of the bottom end, valvetrain, fuel & over-revving. Please add if I missed anything, as I do not speak from personal experience (my LS/VTEC is not done yet, in the works) but those were the precautions that common sense and a knowledge of parts available would lead me to take.

HTH, Rich

maxxdout

i will be using a used head from a delsol, what are some precautions to look for? THe donor engine has 50K on the clock. I am having the head milled to 60 thousands. What are some other precautions?

PS , this is going into an integra ls

hybrid_KJ

Don't mill the head 60 thousands. Also remember to use vtec pistons so there will be enough valve relief for vtec valve throw, don't use ls pistons.

boostn5Ghaba

thanks for the info guys

boostn5Ghaba

it is a pr3 head. I'm planning on using arp bolts. I'm also going turbo. I want to run at about 9 to 10 psi. Can the LS bottom end take that much boost? I'm putting in a block guard but do I need rods and pistons?

Suprdave

Don't even bother swapping heads if your going turbo and not going ALL-Out...You can run 12s with a stock LS motor and a Revhard Kit. 12s is fast.

boostn5Ghaba

the problem is that I have a b16 now in my 94 hatchback. I can get a LS shortblock for fairly inexpensive, that's why I was thinking of going this route. The other route is to build my b16 bottom end to run 10psi. Good or bad idea?

Senses Fail y0!

a VTEC factory valvetrain is capable of reving to about 8800rpms, use a gsr/si ecu and youll be fine, the rev limiter kicks in at 8400.

HX_Guy

Aftermarket rods (Eagle/Crpwer) or at least get your stock LS ones shotpeened.
Apr rod bolts
Z10 Engineering blockgirdle

That should give you worry free 8000 rpm revving.

slowerthanu

Personally I would stick with the b16a and build the bottom end to your liking. Both Toda And JUN build an excellent stroker kit that would give you near LS disp. for alot less hassle

boostn5Ghaba

I was thinking about that, building my b16 bottom end and running the amount of boost I want. I thought it might be easier to get the hp I want(250 to 275hp to the wheel) by going lsvtec turbo. The key is to have it reliable too that's why I was hesitant about going lsvtec. Any comment on that?

Thanks for all you guys help too.

itr1236

do you guys know what the compression is on a ls with stock pistons and a b16a head??

gearhead313

the chamber on the b16 is slightly smaller than the gsr head, but the ls pistons are escentially flat tops, compared to the gsr pistons that are domed a small amout, but have the valve reliefs for vtec like said b/f.....man this is getting confusing...

Ok, unless you really know what you are doin, don't mess around unless you have the money to play when u break something, b/c with LS/vtec, u will break something. That combo is worth a good 200hp at the wheels, but is very volitile. I would not recommend doin that, especially if you are gion turbo!. It takes a lot of measureing and patience to figure out if it will work... I am sure that you don't have the tools like most people to measure the static compression, degree wheel to degree both cams on the vtec lobes and then measure with another tool to get the clearance of the piston to valve clearance at tdc, do a proper cyl. fill reading to get chamber cc at tdc, then factor in advance, cam overlap and max rpm... r u ready? well, maybe if you wanted to do it right i guess? hummph...oh well