The engine is a B16b. I'm using a 92 Civic EX engine harness. The rest of the wiring is from a 92 Civic VX. ECU is a Kenji chipped P-28.

VTEC does not engage at all.

I have checked all my wire connections from the VTEC Solenoid and VTEC Pressure Switch to the ECU. They are fine.

I have checked my ground off the VTEC Pressure Switch. It's fine.

I have excellent oil pressure.

I don't believe I'm throwing any codes. I'm not running the stock gauge cluster ... so it's hard to tell, but the car runs fine without VTEC and still revs to redline.

VTEC will work if I hard wire it (ie. attaching a 12V source directly to the solenoid).

The VSS is hooked up.

I have cleaned both screens in the VTEC Solenoid & checked it's operation. It's fine.

I have plenty of oil & no dents in the oil pan.

Please help? I'm out of ideas. Also, does the chipped ECU look for a VTEC Pressure Switch?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AdamITR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">VTEC will work if I hard wire it (ie. attaching a 12V source directly to the solenoid).
</TD></TR></TABLE>

You have a short in the wire, either permenantly hard wire it, or trace it down..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sinister &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You have a short in the wire, either permenantly hard wire it, or trace it down.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Is that safe to have VTEC wired "on" all the time, ie. running always on the vtec camshaft? I did run a new wire directly to the ecu from the vtec solenoid to test it ... so I don't see how there could be a short.

 

VTEC only engages after certain requirements are made, IE: vehicle speed, oil pressure. So if it`s hardwired it won`t matter...

 

am i really hearing this? you dont want to hardwire vtec on permanentely

it wont even idle with vtec on, and even if it did, it would run like **** until like 5k rpms. i hope i misunderstood you because with that many posts you should know that keeping vtec on all of the time is just ignorant.

 

Ok, what I`m hearing is that there is no connection somewhere, I`m saying to hardwire the wire directly to the ECU, not necessarly to a power source, that`s what I meant.....

 

What cluster are you using? Your VSS may not have a complete circuit.

yes, chipped ECU's look for pressure switch on the P28.

The engine needs to be normal operating temperature, not in limp mode (no hard codes), VSS wired and circuit complete (if you do not have a cluster plugged in, etc, vtec will not work).

Hook up a continuity light to A4 pin-out, and ground it. Take the car out for a drive and see if it lights up when VTEC kicks in. This will tell you whether the ECU is even sending power to the solenoid or not, and you'll be able to tell if there is a short in the wire.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by poison &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What cluster are you using? Your VSS may not have a complete circuit.

yes, chipped ECU's look for pressure switch on the P28.

The engine needs to be normal operating temperature, not in limp mode (no hard codes), VSS wired and circuit complete (if you do not have a cluster plugged in, etc, vtec will not work).

Hook up a continuity light to A4 pin-out, and ground it. Take the car out for a drive and see if it lights up when VTEC kicks in. This will tell you whether the ECU is even sending power to the solenoid or not, and you'll be able to tell if there is a short in the wire.</TD></TR></TABLE>

makes sense... did you solder and heat shrink your wires?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by poison &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What cluster are you using? Your VSS may not have a complete circuit.

yes, chipped ECU's look for pressure switch on the P28.

The engine needs to be normal operating temperature, not in limp mode (no hard codes), VSS wired and circuit complete (if you do not have a cluster plugged in, etc, vtec will not work).

Hook up a continuity light to A4 pin-out, and ground it. Take the car out for a drive and see if it lights up when VTEC kicks in. This will tell you whether the ECU is even sending power to the solenoid or not, and you'll be able to tell if there is a short in the wire.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Okay ... I'll give this a try.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sinister &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok, what I`m hearing is that there is no connection somewhere, I`m saying to hardwire the wire directly to the ECU, not necessarly to a power source, that`s what I meant.....</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks for clearing that up. you had me worried

 

keep the thread posted