00WhiteEKy

First of all, I need a new upper mount, drivers side, and gsr, type r, or civic si mount will do. But here is what happened, Both my drivers side mounts broke, the engine fell like 6 inches, and rested on the broken mount, towed it home, and I got myself a new lower drivers sdie mount, and im looking for a new upper mount. But one bolt is still broke off in the motor, I tried easy outs, but those suck, its a pain in the *** to get out, any ideas will help a lot. Reverse drill bits don't work either. But I need this bolt out, then I have to re tap all the 3 bolt holes and put a new mount on. urrrgggg. but help me out if anyone has ideas.

TurboTeG4

WOW, ur mounts broke, hope my mounts dont break when i put my turbo b18c1 in my coupe

00WhiteEKy

yup, both my drivers side mounts broke. My two upper bolt that hold the upper mount came out with the treads on yet, but the bottom bolt just broke off, and Im having tons of problems getting that bolt out. I can re-thread the holes easily, so bigger bolts fit in, but I need the bolt out first, and its a pain, I tried easy out, reverse drill bit, but nothing works. And its teh bottom bolt that holds the upper mount on, so its hard to get 2.

4doorsi

if it broke in fare you might have to re tap it but if it is in about 1/8 inch get a welder or a freind to weld to the bolt and be care full not to weld to the block and then grab it with needle nose and turn it out but that is only if you have the room you might have to jack the motor back up

00WhiteEKy

yes, i tried all that. Its a aluminum block, so when I weld, it only stick to the broken bolt anyway. And it broke right off, its not in far at all. I tried welding on it, and turning it, I even tried welding an allon wrench to the broken bolt and turning it, but the problem with aluminum, is the mount must have been moving a lot before it broke, and aluminum likes to weld itself to the bolt when its hot. And I know that becasue the other 2 upper bolts came out with the treads on it yet. but the bottom bolt it still on. Im thinking about bolting the two upper bolts back on, and then just welding the bottom on, I don't ever want to take it off again anyway. but if anyone has any other ideas, let me know. I am going to try to get it out for a while yet, maybe I can drill all the way threw the bolt and break it out. but the car has been called many bad names today. Hopfully tomorrow is a better day.

Lei Siew Long

how come the bolt extractor bit didn't work? not exactly the same situation, but, a header stud broke flush to the head on my friend's car and i used a bolt extractor bit and it came out without a problem.

00WhiteEKy

well, both easy outs and reverse drill bits didn't work. I don't know why it won't back its self out. Something else it wrong, I really think the aluminum threads welded to the bolt. Im not sure what to do now.

Suprdave

drill into it

put a reserve bit in, and smack it with a 5lb hammer till its inbedded in there...then turn it out with vise-grips.

Lei Siew Long

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92hatchy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well, both easy outs and reverse drill bits didn't work. I don't know why it won't back its self out. Something else it wrong, I really think the aluminum threads welded to the bolt. Im not sure what to do now. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i'm assuming you center punched the broken stud and used a drill bit (same size of the bolt extractor) to drill a hole in the stud. and put the drill on reverse with the bolt extractor on the drill, to pull the broken bolt/stud out.

Suprdave

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hatch4urSnatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i'm assuming you center punched the broken stud and used a drill bit (same size of the bolt extractor) to drill a hole in the stud. and put the drill on reverse with the bolt extractor on the drill, to pull the broken bolt/stud out. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Drill on reverse doesn't work that good...drill the pilot hole, pound the reverse bit in with a hammer, turn it out...

Lei Siew Long

sounds like an idea. but, the reversing it out with a drill worked fine for me.

00WhiteEKy

yes, I did all this. But you have to remember, its my upper motor mount on my drivers side, and the bolt is stuck in the block, picture that. I can bearly fit a right angle drill in there to drill it, no way can I fit a center punch and be able to hit it with a hammer. And I tried lowering the motor as far as it will go, and raising it as high as it will go, I removed the ground and anything else in the way before i raised or lowered the motor. But there is no way I can get in there with a hammer and center punch. I welded an allon wrench to the bolt, and the bolt will move a little in both directions, but it won't back out, if I really turn the allon wrench, it just breaks the weld off the bolt. Im stumped here. Makeing it really hard on me. And by now I probably need a new timing belt, becasue of welding right above it, and the plastic that covers the timing belt and gears is all broken.

Lei Siew Long

my fault. i went downstairs to look at my car to see what part of the mount you're referring to. i kept on thinking that you were referring to the rubber mount that attaches to the chassis on the driver's side of the vehicle.

well, you probably thought of this already, but, pull the engine out and take off the lower timing belt cover to get to the broken bolt directly.

Suprdave

I still know what your referring to....undo te rear engine bracket...raise it up to drill it.

00WhiteEKy

Well, thats good you know what im talking about, but I can drill it just fine, i just wouldn't be able to get a center punch and a hammer in there to hit it. But I found out that if I take a torch and heat it up, the aluminum will expand faster than the bolt, and the bolt will come out easier. Ill have to try that.

00WhiteEKy

well, im pulling the motor tomorrow. easier to work on, and easier to swap new tranny anyway. When you rip the tranny off, it doesn't take much more to pull the motor anyway, easier to get at the broken botl anyway.

00WhiteEKy

well, the bolt is still being really stuborn. Anyone else have any advice? ill try anything anyone says to do.

preluder

you may have to melt it out or warm the bolt up and tap it with a retapper to extract the bolt. Take it to mineke they have dont it over here. Hey at least you not like me have morons do your swap where the put the left side motor mounts on the tranny where the tranny bount bolts came out and stripped the holes while doing so. Its incompetence like that,that get people killed I feel your pain bro. go to shops and ask around.

00WhiteEKy

ok, it was easier to work on the motor while its out of the car. I just drilled the bolt all the way out. But hole hole is bigger now, I won't be able to re-tread it to the same treads. Any good ideas? tread it for a bigger bolt?? Or has anyone heard of those things you can buy that replace your treads?? I think they are called heil coils or something like that. I just wonder if those work for crap or not. But I have a new timing belt, I have to figure out how to change that, and I got a new 2 piece cover to go over the pulleys. But let me know what people think I should do.

94CivicSi

iTrader: (1)

Yes, helicoils work very well and they're pretty easy to install. You may not find metric ones at your average parts store though.

Did you take the crank pulley off before you took the motor out?

00WhiteEKy

no, but i took the pulley off right when i got the motor out.

00WhiteEKy

ok, I have a quick question about the helicoils. I bought some, 1/2 coils. They fit 1/2 bolts. Whats the best way to put them in???? Should I just tap the hole for the helicoil? If so, what size tap will I use? Is there a web site I can go to see how to do this? It seems easy enough, so I don't think ill have a problem, but ill take any advice on how to do this better.