Fair point. I’ve not met one I couldn’t get out with the correct tool, if I did I would imagine the whole linkage is garbage and would probably go nuclear option on it anyway. I don’t really ever contend with some of the cars that you guys do, that look like they were pulled from the bottom of the ocean. Then again I wouldn’t get under a car that’s only 12” off the ground either.

There’s a pin tool for that too

 

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Honda's 95 GSR rear engine mount. The two #23 bolts are 14mm.



I certainly have to use my rear engine mount below. It as 12mm bolts



Hasport has told me I have to drill my mount out to 9/16s inch. The only bolt that's 14mm is labeled 23 above and will be number 24 in the photo below. There are 2 of them in both years, but my engine mount is different, in that the one below is offset and one is much shorter. Honda doesn't list the bottom hole or what goes in it. I've ordered the 14mm bolt, but might have to dig up a shorter one. I'll have to look at the gsr engine to fine out. The two bolts at the bottom mount directly into the engine (trans)....at least on my 90.

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I believe you should be using your existing mounts and brackets, no need to drill anything. I may not be correct in this one though.

 

It depends on the transmission he's using because that's what those bolts go into.

 

Yes, the y80 hydo that's standard with the GSR of '95. Those two bolts on the y80 are 14mm. On my b18a1 5-speed they are 12mm. That's why Hasport says I have to drill out my mount, but only for those two bolts. The other holes and bolts are 12mm like my existing one.

Really my question is the lowest bolt....Honda does not even list it for my year, but it is there. I went under and looked. The difference in the mounts besides shape is the bottom of the '95 is double thick, maybe an inch and a half apart. My mount is single thickness down at the bottom...compared in the two images, so I'm guessing I'll have to come up with a shorter 14mm bolt. and drill that hole too. I won't know till I get the gsr eng&tranny.

 

Oh, I thought you were keeping your cable setup.

 

You're right....
I wanted to in the beginning, but found out it only works with the '92 trans....to switch the guts of the gsr y80 into the cable trans.

I got the Hasport cable/hydro conversion setup....see how that works for now.

I thought about using my trans and changing the pilot bearing, but the gear ratios are wrong for the vtec, and my trans is old for more hp, etc.....

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Wrong.

You just buy buy the correct clutch for the transmission you are using.

 

My engine is finally shipping out Friday. It took longer because I told Steve at HMO, that I was going to use power steering. So for a small fee he ordered a '92 pump and found the brackets to fit the gsr engine. He even installed it on the engine before shipping. That's more than I expected. Steve has the resources and knows what needs to be done. I'll just need to use my b18a1 crank pulley.

I also splurged on the new Oside 12 hole injectors. Compared to the 1 hole and 4 hole injectors, they put out mist instead of streams.

I'm still looking at intake tube issues, because I want to keep the dual runner intake.

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When you get those brackets, compare them to your factory brackets.

 

I won't have the factory brackets. I'll only have what's on my b18a1 and the ones he's sending on the gsr engine.

 

You don't currently have power steering?

 

That is exactly what I replaced on my H23A with the addition of the balance shaft seals and the belt tensioner and pulleys. Valve stem seals were replaced also.

 

Yes, I have these things on hand.

I think Steve is correct about this. In the 6 years I've had this 1990, I've discovered that there are a number of differences between the '90 and '91 thru '93. Smaller pilot bearing on the flywheel, different front LCAs, different brackets, and a number of other things I can't remember. Acura started changing things in '91.

 

90-91 integra are obd0 and have small spline transmission
92-93 integra are obd1 and have big spline transmission

the changes occured in 92-93 with the updated front bumper, interior, rear tail lights, obd1, large spline trans, etc

i am not aware that honda would change lca or anything like that in 90-91
the only difference that could have possibly been lca wise is an lca without sway bar holes but thats highly unlikely on an integra being that its the sporty model vehicle honda made

your PS pump will be retained along with your crank pulley. the crank pulley needs to be swapped over onto the GSR engine

you will also need an obd0-obd1 wiring conversion and obd0-obd1 ecu jumper for everything to work properly with an obd1 ecu as there are no obd0 gsr ecu

you will have to drill the bottom 2 holes on your T bracket with a 9/16ths drill bit for use on the hydro transmission. the upper bolt will work from the gsr engine but youll need a smaller bolt for the bottom hole
a 14x1.50x35mm bolt and 14mm washer will be needed for the lower bolt hole

a stock rubber GSR intake arm will work just fine with the setup and may even come on the engine from hmotors. that will hook up quite nicely with the k&n elbow that is in the pics the OP posted

 

"a stock rubber GSR intake arm"? If you're referring to the intake tube, I looked at their images and that wasn't there. I didn't get the full swap kit. I didn't need axles or engine mounts.....etc. I've purchased a couple intake parts from Spectre, hoping to use my '90 intake tube and K&N.

At one time a well known tuner site told me that despite what Skunk2 stated about their Skunk2 Front LCA - Spherical Bearing - '92-'95 - 542-05-M440, it would fit my '90

...I was hoping, but should've known better.

So I got it, and found that the holes holding the "Rod Front Radius
51352-SK7-305" were not in the same place on the LCA, as my '90.

So in this case the 90 and 91 are the same, and they changed in 92.
...but there are a few small mechanical items that are unique to the '90. In some cases I found out the hard way and then learned to look very carefully.

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sometimes the rubber intake arm is left on the engine when it gets shipped. one of those is going to be your best bet for what you want to do. they can be found on ebay or even the acuraautomotiveparts.org site

 

My advice beyond what’s already been given, is to buy an ebay cold-air intake for a 90-93 integra so it clears the ABS block and battery, they’re cheap so if you need to hack it up a little bit, no big deal. You may have to trim it or whatnot, but it will have the correct bends, and come with some couplings, so you can piece parts together if need be. The B18C intake manifold is not going to sit that much differently than your current one. I am a little lost on why you’re so adamant to keep the dual runner manifold setup, as a PR3 (B16/Type R) manifold is what most usually upgrade to, but to each his own. I’m more surprised that you’re planning on using your current header, is it stock or aftermarket? If it’s an aftermarket upgrade then disregard... You can get a decent knock-off one for under $200 that will flow better than stock, but that’s definitely not an urgent decision that needs to be made.
There should be no difference in your LCAs, as they were the same for all 90-93 models, you are the first person I’ve encountered to ever state such. It could be possible that you were given an incorrect part or number, versus Honda redesigning the LCA from the 90-91 to 92-93 models. Your 90-93 front LCA is different than a 94+ because they changed the front suspension significantly, so the fact it stated 92-95 was wrong to begin with. I would definitely verify this against another factory LCA before assuming that is the case. I have a 92 GSR, and I’m planning to do my front LCA bushings sometime in the next several days, if I’m able to do so (provided work or family life doesn’t hijack my plans), I can take some pictures (and even get some measurements) while it’s off of the car to help verify a potential difference.
Being completely honest, if I was in your position, I’d likely use my cable trans initially to verify the engine operates as it’s supposed to, before I ventured into a hydro swap. You already have a known working transmission and a clutch and flywheel for it; and though the gear ratios are different, they are not detrimetnally so. I have a 90 LS trans on my engine right now; I already had a clutch that fit it when my last one went out, so instead of buying a new clutch at the time, I just used the almost new Exedy I had (with the smaller splines) on an old LS trans I had bought a long time ago (back before I knew better)... That would allow you to work out any bugs with the engine swap, without also having to worry about transmission glitches from a cable to hydro changeover. I did not see anything mentioned about adding the slave cylinder or other parts needed for the hydro trans to work properly (except for the cable and bracket). I would priortize that over a lightweight flywheel, which could be done when you eventually decided to swap the transmissions (presuming you initally used your orginal transmission). I would also prioritize a chipped ECU over a lightweight flywheel, as you’ll get more out of that than you will shaving a few pounds off of the drivetrain. If you do end up opting to temporarily use the cable tranny, let me know, as there are a couple of small things I would share to help you get the most out of it, including going with the chipped ECU (and why I recommend it).
Another piece of advice is to change the oil pump while you have the engine out doing the other work on it. That’s a small expenditure for big insurance. I’ve had an old oil pump fail, and it nearly destroyed my engine, and forced me to have to do another rebuild some years back. Do it and the waterpump while the motor is out of the car, and you’ll likely never have to mess with either again. Also do the timing belt as several have suggested, a Gates blue “racing” timing belt can be had these days for well under a hundred dollars (on Amazon), and is also valuable insurance for your investment. You might also want to think about a new fuel pump (assuming you’re still using the car’s original one) and a cheap fuel pressure regulator w/ gauge, as your original pump doesn’t flow the same volume as a GSR one, and you need some way to adjust fuel pressure in case the engine doesn’t get enough from the stock regulator or vice versa. I’d also advise to gut your cat (if you haven’t already) so you can open up as much flow as possible, particularly in the high rpm range. If you already have an aftermarket exhaust, this may be a moot point.
I’m sure I could think of some other things to consider or look into, if I ponder it long enough, but between this and the other posts, it seems you have a solid base to start with, and you can pick and choose what advice you follow versus disregard. I hope this was helpful to some degree, and look forward to seeing how it goes in the coming weeks.
I imagine you’re trying to do everything you can to make the car as hassle free and low maintenance as possible, but do understand, you will have to work on it here and there, including clutch swaps, transmission swaps, suspension repairs, engine/electrical issues (our distributors are notorious for misbehaving), etc etc... That is just the nature of swapping a 20+ year old engine into an almost 30 year old car, you will have to work on it quite a bit, but it’s fun for the most part and rewarding when you drive it... Best of luck with everything.

 

I want to thank Hasport for their willingness to spend time on the phone. The first thing I purchased what all their mounts and cable conversion for my project. I've spoke with them half a dozen times digging for info. I appreciate that.
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Found the Felpro oil pan gasket for $14.95 on closeout sale.
Some people use RTV, some don't. What do you guys think?

Oil pump, $200 with shipping?
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I prefer OEM for both of those.

Buy online, check majestic Honda or acurapartsnow for pricing.

 

What Felpro part number did you use for your oil pan ???

 

I got the last one, so I can't check the part number, but it was "specific to the gsr".....1995. I didn't use the oem part number in my search, just made sure it was for the '95 gsr, not the LS. It better be the sandwiched one, but at least at $15, I can get another.
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The "PermaDryPlus" FelPro gasket is the one to have... the part number is OS 30-630-T.

 

Yes, that's the one I was after, but the web company I ordered from apparently didn't have it, so they sent me junk. I just ordered it from Napa. They'll have it tonight.