removing ball join??
Rubber mallet. Ball joint splitter can damage the grease containing boot. I used a ball joint splitter to loosen it without visibly damaging the boot though so it is your call.
i use a big hammer and slam the side of the knuckle. so far it's always loosen the balljoint from the knuckle. spray it down with WD-40 to loosen it a bit.
If you are referring to the lower balljoint the ONLY way to go is go buy a BIG two jaw puller. One that has a single joint right along the center line; that way when you tighten it the jaws will squeeze in, not out.
Last time went to pull mine it was in soo tight that i used every trick possible and after 8 hours (no joke) with no effect, i gave up. I went and borrowed this BIG puller the next day and it took one try and about 3 minutes....POP!
d
Last time went to pull mine it was in soo tight that i used every trick possible and after 8 hours (no joke) with no effect, i gave up. I went and borrowed this BIG puller the next day and it took one try and about 3 minutes....POP!
d
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don't know but it looks like this...
and it was ordered through UAP or NAPA auto parts for like 100$ Cdn or somthing. I'll be first in line for one as soon as i see one in the sale flyer (or i need to pull another joint, whatever comes first hehe).
d
better pic... http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...2.jpg.orig.jpg
[Modified by daver, 5:30 PM 1/10/2003]
and it was ordered through UAP or NAPA auto parts for like 100$ Cdn or somthing. I'll be first in line for one as soon as i see one in the sale flyer (or i need to pull another joint, whatever comes first hehe).
d
better pic... http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...2.jpg.orig.jpg
[Modified by daver, 5:30 PM 1/10/2003]
Find the biggest hoss you know and have them hit it with a wrench. Thats all it took for mine, and those joints haven't been touched in about 10 years...
[Modified by fOmaNPu, 12:53 PM 1/10/2003]
[Modified by fOmaNPu, 12:53 PM 1/10/2003]
Heat! Take a propane torch and heat up the outer part of the knuckle around the balljoint. Don't get crazy with the torch, just get it heated up and then hit the bottom of the bolt upward and it will come out pretty easy.
If you are gonna be using a torch then make sure that you watch the heat. You can very easly burn the boot and then need a new ball joint!
you don't need any special tools, you don't need any big fat guys, and you don't to waste time with this.
Start UNBOLTING things. Unbolt the upper ball joint, and unbolt the controll arm in the rear, and the fork, the hub will hang on the rubber brake line, so be carefull not to let it jerk on it too hard. You can get the axle through the fork and in between the controll arm, don't let it fool you - it's EASY! Takes a little longer, but it's better than spending money or driving to the parts store.
Start UNBOLTING things. Unbolt the upper ball joint, and unbolt the controll arm in the rear, and the fork, the hub will hang on the rubber brake line, so be carefull not to let it jerk on it too hard. You can get the axle through the fork and in between the controll arm, don't let it fool you - it's EASY! Takes a little longer, but it's better than spending money or driving to the parts store.
you guys really having this much trouble? With my car and my roommates accord we hit the balljoint splittering in pretty far then hit the side of the control arm and it just fell off. Given that mine is a 2000 but his is a 94 accord. Well good luck to you.
i used to always use the propane heat along with a cheap puller, and after about an hour of fighting i'd get it off. Didn't work last time, that puller in the picture was the only way that day. I tried hitting it with everything i could get a swing with. I remember trying to take everything else apart but gave up because of all the corrosion; i would have had to wreck stuff. I think my 8 hours of suffering could have been better spent buying a good puller (time is $$)
Surely one could at least rent a puller like the one in my picture...?
d
Surely one could at least rent a puller like the one in my picture...?
d
I will NEVER use a puller again....
Even the big ones, the ones made for the job.
If the joint is in there too tight...the puller will do no good.
What it will do, however, is bend your threaded bolt that the casle nut goes on. It will bend it, and contort it so bad you can't get the castle nut back on it because it just mangles the whole thing, OR get it through the hole in the spindle if you ever do get it lose.
F the pullers.
They caused me nothing but headaches.
Use a pickle fork, and then replace the boot when it rips.
Even the big ones, the ones made for the job.
If the joint is in there too tight...the puller will do no good.
What it will do, however, is bend your threaded bolt that the casle nut goes on. It will bend it, and contort it so bad you can't get the castle nut back on it because it just mangles the whole thing, OR get it through the hole in the spindle if you ever do get it lose.
F the pullers.
They caused me nothing but headaches.
Use a pickle fork, and then replace the boot when it rips.
i use a big hammer and slam the side of the knuckle. so far it's always loosen the balljoint from the knuckle. spray it down with WD-40 to loosen it a bit.
What it will do, however, is bend your threaded bolt that the casle nut goes on. It will bend it, and contort it so bad you can't get the castle nut back on it because it just mangles the whole thing, OR get it through the hole in the spindle if you ever do get it lose.
Also, if you use a good puller, like the one in the picture, it will apply the force in a straight line. The junker pullers are all loosey and twisty and they're the ones that bend the bolts.
The good big pullers, with the single center pivot, pushing on the castle nut, which should be loosely threaded on on the bolt, IS the way to go. Perhaps not the cheapest, but quick and fool proof in my experience.
d
If you keep the castle nut on the bolt (like your supposed to) it will seriously lessen your chances of mangling the bolt.
Also, if you use a good puller, like the one in the picture, it will apply the force in a straight line. The junker pullers are all loosey and twisty and they're the ones that bend the bolts.
The good big pullers, with the single center pivot, pushing on the castle nut, which should be loosely threaded on on the bolt, IS the way to go. Perhaps not the cheapest, but quick and fool proof in my experience.
d
Also, if you use a good puller, like the one in the picture, it will apply the force in a straight line. The junker pullers are all loosey and twisty and they're the ones that bend the bolts.
The good big pullers, with the single center pivot, pushing on the castle nut, which should be loosely threaded on on the bolt, IS the way to go. Perhaps not the cheapest, but quick and fool proof in my experience.
d
And I think the $167 puller of mine is a 'good big' one.
It just doesn't work in every case.
ok poop eater, this is what i was referring in my assumtions of you..."It will bend it, and contort it so bad you can't get the castle nut back on it because it just mangles the whole thing"...sounded here like you were saying you didn't do it with the castle nut on, ie. you had trouble getting it back "on" (not off), anyways...
My question to you is does your 167$ puller have the one single center axis pivot point or the wider getup with the two or four outer joints. And secondly, maybe your little civic has flimsy flamsy balljoint bolts compared to my muscular integra.
d
My question to you is does your 167$ puller have the one single center axis pivot point or the wider getup with the two or four outer joints. And secondly, maybe your little civic has flimsy flamsy balljoint bolts compared to my muscular integra.
d
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