Kevin

I'm pulling the motor out of a 00 Civic Si and was wondering if anyone knows of a how-to site that would give me some advice and maybe even some short cuts. I can do without it but it would help I know a lot of you guys are DIYers and have done this before so any advice would be great.

Also, any special tools i should buy? Ive pulled motors before but this is my first DOHC Honda 4 banger. Only other Honda ive done was a 1st gen Legend.

My friend blew the rings on his turbo Civic and i gotta take the block out to get get bored and fitted with some new pistons and rods

pics to come!

infuryum

I just finished this last night...

The head will come off easily enough and so will the transmission. Remember to support the block with a jack under the oilpan when you start pulling motor mounts. Get plastic baggies with labels and mark every set of bolts you pull off so you know where they go during re-install. If you don't know the order and procedure to pull the head bolts, let me know. Otherwise, be sure and follow that procedure and do them in that order. Also, keep them seperate and put them back in the specific holes they came from.

Drain the coolant from the radiator and from the block, as well. There are two seperate drain holes and be sure and get them both. The passenger side half-shaft will need to be pried out of the differential casing, but the driver side axle will just pop out after you've pulled the bolts on the knucke assembly and seperated the lower ball joint. Be careful when doing that.

The A/C compressor mount is also an engine mount. Don't try to remove it from the front of the engine because you'll have to unbolt it from the bottom to free the block. Just unbolt the compressor itself from the mount. Same with the alternator. Don't undo the mounts. It's going to be tricky getting the intake manifold braket off the block, as well. You can try unbolting the bolt that sticks out in the back, but I ended up stripping the head trying. Just undo the wires and hoses connected to that mount and hit the one block mount bolt in the back. It looks like there's a lock-nut on the driver side of that mount that's going to be hard to get to. Don't try. It's solid and not actually a lock-nut. Just get a 14mm socket around the bolt itself on the other side of the mount.

It might be a good idea to take off the flywheel before you drop the block. When transporting it to the back of the truck to take it to the shop, my finger got caught in the flywheel and rotated into the engine. Ouch.

Email or AIM me if you have any specific questions.


[Modified by integral, 4:06 PM 4/24/2002]

infuryum

Also, it's worlds easier to take the head off with the intake manifold still attached and unbolt it once it's off the car. Just make sure all the hoses and lines to the IM are clear and be sure to get the two bolts that hold the IM to the bracket underneath. There is one bolt you can get from the passenger side and the one next to it is easier loosened from underneath the car with a big-*** extension. If you have air tools, I envy you. We just did all this with hand tools. It was fun.


[Modified by integral, 4:10 PM 4/24/2002]

Kevin

Cool. Thanks for the tips. I figured it would be best to take the intake manifold off just to get below it. I got all the bolts out, just gotta pull it off tonight. Last night i got all of the fluids drained, hoses disconnected and turbo manifold off when i got home from work.

BTW my compressor doesnt work so im using hand tools. I feel better using them anyways, im in no hurry to do this so im just taking my sweet time. My friend hasnt even found a good machine shop to do the block yet.


[Modified by 5speedv6, 4:36 PM 4/25/2002]

infuryum

Be careful with that. I just found out my friend's machine shop pulled the rods without paying attention to the color code of the rod bearings. Now he's in a pickle and has to pick up the block and take it to a shop that knows what they're doing. Make sure your shop has worked on Honda blocks before.

Like I said, AIM or email me if you have any other questions.

It's funny... we pulled the head off with the intake manifold and the turbo manifold and the turbo still attached. That sucker was HEAVY!


[Modified by integral, 11:45 AM 4/25/2002]

Ltech

Get you a camera and take as much as picture if you can. It will save you time and headache.

Plan B

undo all hoses, un do all plugs, remove all ground loops, fuel line
. shift linkage, support engine from above with crane, pull out axles, undo lower mounts, and rear from bottom, undo upper 2 from top, remove all ground loops, fuel line. If you're really cool, you can lower the engine on to the ground, then get like 5 of your buddies to come lift the front of the car up over the engine and back off.

Kevin

You should call that "engine pulling in a nutshell"

I thought about pulling it from the bottom but the car is sitting on Tanabe coilovers and the back wont come up high enough. The coilovers are almost all the way up and it is still too low Not to mention my garage sucks and the door is low. So out the top its coming. We plan on getting the actual motor out saturday morning.

tinkerbell

or if you doing a half clip - it can be done with rope and your dad...

http://www.geocities.com/b16aprelude/blockremoval.html

t..

infuryum

Am I understanding this right? You're going to take out the motor without jacking the car up? You have to in order to get your axles out. If you have the front end on jackstands, you can pull the head out the top and lower the transmission out the bottom, as well as the block. Lemme know if I'm missing something.

Kevin

Naw, im jacking the car up. Matter of fact the tires are off and the axles are waiting to be pulled. I just gotta get the axles off, engine mounts and im good to go.

BTW the cars getting Roller-Wave low CR pistons, Eagle rods, .030 Cometic HG and a cylinder brace. I wanted to get the block sleeved but we dont have the money or time right now. Maybe in the future we'll just buy a b18 block, get it sleeved and dropped in.

infuryum

Tite. Remember you have to pry the passenger side half-shaft out. Don't be gentle... just get a strong screwdriver and pry that sucker out until the pin clears the differential.