rice a roni

iTrader: (1)

Morning ladies and gentlemen,

I've been reluctant to ask for help, but now I'm getting desperate. I've been googling and testing this for about two days now, nothing to show for.

I have a b18c which I rebuilt and ran in my ek, however I got the chance to pick up a clean crx so I swapped the engine over.

Crx did not come with an engine harness, it is a 1990 CRX SI. I managed to snag a 1990 CRX HF harness from the junkyard for $5 and re pinned the necessary wires through googling and old threads. I am running deatschwerks 1100cc injectors part number 17mx-10-1100-4. They were off an evo 10 and are saturated so no resistor box is needed (I removed my resistor box by the way by soldering all the black/red wires to the yellow/black). They do have a longer tip than traditional civic injectors and did require rdx style top had adapters to work with the civic fuel rails...anyways...

ECU is a chipped p28 that I ran Crome on, now I am running netptune with the Demon2. P72 map on a P28 ecu, injectors set for ID1000cc injectors at 45psi (just to get it started). Using a obd0 to obd1 ebay harness. I have traced the injector wires all the way from the injectors to the ecu, all the CYP,TDC,CKP from the distributor to the ecu.

Tested the main relay according to test methods I've found online.
Tested ignition switch according to test methods I've found online.
Resistance at the distributor 10pin for the CYP,TDC,CKP sensors are roughly 360-370 ohms. Traced them back to the ecu for pins b11-b16 measuring similar resistance.

Was able to get the car started once, let it run for 5 mins by having the key on and jumping positive to the starter solenoid,but didnt have coolant in there just in case I need to pull the radiator again so I shut it down. Once I did that it wouldnt start again. Every once in a while it would almost start, rest of the time it just cranks.

I have:
-Compression
-Spark
-Mechanical timing is on spot
-Fuel pressure (~50psi at the filter)
-All grounds at the ecu have continuity (A23,A24,A26, B1, I believe B2, but I'll have to verify again, D21, D22
-All power shows continuity (A25)
-12V at injector red/black wire
-12V at injector signal wire. These are the brown, red, blue, yellow on the injectors. (12V check light is dim when I back prob A1,A2,A3,A5 at the ecu, bright when I check the battery or A25)
-Took 400grit sand paper to thermostat housing and ground cables and grounds (three grounds at at the moment, battery post to chassis, battery post to trans bracket, drivers side frame to block)

What I do not have:
Injector pulse
CEL 6(coolant temp sensor)
CEL 20 ELD (defective, .25V under spec, turned off using neptune)
CEL 22 VTPS (turned off using neptune)

Any help is appreciated.

Short video of car running.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4...Wk4OXZSdGFIV28

rice a roni

iTrader: (1)

Break break break!!!

Found the issue.

To begin with, the obd0 to obd1 harness I got off of ebay was whack. It had the CKP and the CYP pins flip flopped around. If you look at a STD CRX vs an HF or SI crx pinout they are switched like this. I was wondering why I had to repin my 10 pin distributor harness :/.

Ok, so the issue was the harness had C16, the O2 sensor plugged spliced and heat shrunk into the CYP input on the obd1 side. Clipped it, repinned it to match the CRX SI harness and she starts.

Fucken ebay. Check your obd harness if your **** doesnt work.