mine ls/vtec ran great with turbo too, for years and I daily drive it too

 

The rods don't change the stroke, the crankshaft does. What I'm wondering is, how reliable is an LS/Vtec with the 1.54 R/S? I've read that with a rod/stroke ratio so low, they're not good to rev high, even past the stock LS rev limit (~6700). The whole point of the vtec head swap is for high end power with more revs; but if the crank spends too much time pushing the pistons horizontally, the cylinder walls will be diminished so soon, won't they? Does sleeving overcome this problem? I did check the R/S on my d16 civic and its even lower at like 1.52 (redline 7200). D16's tend to be very reliable right?

Can anyone help with the outright long term reliability of an LS/Vtec (assuming time and money is properly invested)?

 

(bump)

 

I tried to test-fit the PR3 rods, they don't even fit technically. they went in smooth and everything, but the crank hit the underside of the piston.Also, the piston didn't come up to the deck completely. there was a gap between the top of the piston and the deck about this big; ; I'm going to get maybe crower rods to use with my PR3 pistons.because I'm using a bare block basicly. All I have is the block with c rank in it, oilpan,water pickup. that's it. everything I need will be aftermarket. anyone got some 1.8 liter rods for sale? I read that story also about the r/s ratio, interesting. Also, I'm a little concerned about the fact that DOHC VTEC motors from the factory come with oil squirters for the underside of the piston.I Plan to use a b16 head,and tranny, and maybe a gsr water pump, and oil pump. anyone have one for sale?I also plan on re-sleeving this motor. I don't plan on stroking it, just want to start fresh as I can. Maybe even a cylinder brace. Anyone ever use a cylinder brace before?How was it

 

Well with all this reading I purchased my B18A block with head the other day, gotta pick it up on the 20th, and start my strip down process. So tally another one up for the LS/VTEC swap list!

 

iirc the r/s ratio of a gsr/itr is 1.58:1....not that far from the 1.54 r/s ratio. correct me if i am wrong.

peace

 

my ls/vtec sucked it was leaking oil everywhere i guess the guy who built it didn't know what the f@&k he was doing.

 

any motor you tear down and rebuild will leak oil everywhere if you have no idea what youre doing....

 

word to ya motha.This will be My first ever engine build up. I intend to do it right

 

quote... "I've read that with a rod/stroke ratio so low, they're not good to rev high, even past the stock LS rev limit (~6700). The whole point of the vtec head swap is for high end power with more revs; but if the crank spends too much time pushing the pistons horizontally, the cylinder walls will be diminished so soon, won't they? Does sleeving overcome this problem? I did check the R/S on my d16 civic and its even lower at like 1.52 (redline 7200). D16's tend to be very reliable right? "

regardless of what ppl say the rod/stroke ratio is not THAT horrible...

i just started buying parts for my ls/vtec also so far all i have is a ls block and a gsr head with really low milage its crazy lol here is the setup in my plans

84mm bore sleeved.(2.0L)
forged rods
forged pistons (9.5:1cr for future turbo)
arp rod,head,main bolts (cheap insurance)
vtec water/oil pumps
golden eagle lsvtec kit
GSR or CTR tranny with lsd
may have left some things out but o well

for now i am keeping the head stock untill i spring for the turbo.
This is my first build also