Milano_EH3

Just a general opinion. I'm looking at a Frankenstein hybrid swap. Either a LS/VTEC or a B20/VTEC in my lil '94 Si.
Now, I have heard that LS/VTECs aren't really as reliable as their true VTEC counterparts. I believe that is due to the longer stroke from the stock B18B crank. But I also believe that is the same thing that gives the hybrid a better torque curve than the B18Cs. Basically I would probably be getting a stroker kit if I were to get the LS/VTEC. New crank, pistons, rods, etc., and MAYBE aftermarket cams.
Or I was looking at a B20/VTEC. Which also have a great torque curve. However a lot has to go into making them correctly. See http://www.crvtec.com/. And if they are not done right, then they too can be unreliable.
So, what does everyone think?

dohcsideSi

ok i'll keep it short, if you are building an ls/vtec, crvtec or any built motor it is not going to be as reliable as factory (i.e. 100k miles w/o a tune up) look at any purpose built engine treated well they last just fine, most people who are building these motors do so because they want to go fast and beat the snot out of them (making them unreliable) . but a stock crvtec or ls/vtec doesn't make sense, build it right the first time if you want to abuse it. btw i have an integra w/ a stock ls/ vtec and a civic hatch w/ a fully built crvtec

speeddave

i'm gonna have a ls/vtec soon and i was wondering what you do to maintain your ls/vtec and keep it in good running order, any tips or tricks? thanks for the help.

bruthaboost

I have a built ls/vtec. Engine has 5k on it and it runs fine. All the reliability talk-throw it in the garbage. Drive like a normal human (ie don't buzz 8200 at every shift) being and your engine will last. If you are just doing this for 30 extra ponies, then don't. You're wasting your money. The hp per dollar is horrendous. The only reason to do this is if you are gunning to increase your hp by at least 50% and in this case you know your reliability has already dropped. If you want factory reliability and more power, then trade to a faster car from the factory.


[Modified by b18bpwr, 7:47 AM 4/2/2002]

Milano_EH3

Okay, okay. I know once you start doing any type of work to an engine for performance, and start running it a bit harder, than the reliabilty of the engine will decrease. That's a given. I don't want an engine crapping out on me 30K after I get it though.
Nobody really answered my question though, what do you recommend? LS, or B20?

Maximus

There basically the same setup just with different blocks. If your going to do either one of them I would say go b20.

allmtr

the b20 will obviously give you more power. however, the ls block is cheaper. sleave the ls to 2.0

Shft@9GSR

I agree with allmtr. I am currently doing that same thing. I have a b18a block that was sleeved and bored to 85mm. As far as crank and rods, I am using the GSR crank and some aftermarket rods. Then of course you need to do the standard LS/VTEC mods to the head and such but it is pretty much the same as a CR/VTEC. It is pretty costly.

infamousALLMTR

golden eagle baby, 12:1 comp. pistons, eagle rods, z10 girdle... AHHHHH *drool*

topspeed86

LS/VTECS are very reliable i built one with mike k and its already been in 2 cars with over 40000 miles putting down 185 and 136 with 11.1

it's all in how it's built. shitty build, shitty reliability.

this motor still gets 240 across the board on compression test

Maximus

You can get a complete B20 long block for under $1000 and resleeving a block would cost around $800. If you don't already have a b18 block then just get the b20 block. If you do have a b18 block then resleeve it. I bought my bare b20 block and crank for $570 shipped.

civicguy

is there any posibity of puttin a b16 crankshaft on a b18a,will this decrease or increase the rod ratio,or just don't work?

FifthGearOnline

what would be better for a turbo setup an LS/VTEC or straight B18B