...esteban

Hello All-

Quick run down on where I'm at. Took out my b series to sell it for a down payment on my 2003 Tundra. The hatch (92) ran perfectly fine, no CEL's, no issues of starting, nuthin, perfect running car. Fast foward to now, replaced the B16 for the original d15b7 and alas. The car runds, but very poorly. Driving around town, the car shut off, almost as if I had turned the car off. Speedo, tach, and motor, simply shut off.

So the car sits, it will crank over, fuel pump will prime, but I'm getting no spark! Checked my fuses (not sure which one would power the dizzy however) and all seems fine, however, something is clearly not.

A couple of things to note:

-I took the working harness from the bseries and installed it on the d15
-No CEL's
-car ran (poorly) however it still ran, then cleanly cut off.

I know my problem is urely electrical, and was hoping to get a few idea's while I thought of things myself. If you guys have ever had such symptoms, let me know or shout out a few ideas!

DeadVet

ignition coil. Measure the reisistance of the coil. Specs are around here somewhere.

Slurp56

How have you determined there is no spark? It's time to break out the test light if thats the case. You need to make sure the ICM and coil are getting power. You also need to make sure that the coil has a good ground. While cranking the car, clip the alligator clip on the + side of your battery and then touch the probe to the - side of your coil. Have a buddy crank the motor over and look for an interupted ground. If the ground is interrupted then replace the coil. If the ground is not inturrupted, then replace the ICM.

...esteban

I determined there's no spark two ways. 1-screw driver + ground = no spark. 2-spark plug + ground = no spark. I went ahead and replaced the coil with one that was known to work, and alas, no spark. I'll go ahead with that test of the ICM. However, it should be known that there's something under the dash that is creating a "noise" that sounds like scratch almost, definitely an electrical sound. It occurs sometimes when the key goes to the "on" position, and then smells like fish! or coolant...

I suppose what I need to do next is trace power from the relay and/or fuse (unknown to me) and make sure power is getting to the dizzy.

...esteban

UPDATE:

the Positive and negative terminals on the coil both have power. weird. The ground signal is in fact, interrupted, replace the coil, same happens. My main relay (under dash) is the source of the noise inside the car. The car primes when it wants to, and i can't seem to figure out what the issue is. I think the next best thing is replace the main relay and hope for the best...any other suggestions?

Slurp56

I'd say you're on the right track with replacing the main relay. Typically you'll have more problems than a lack of spark when they start to fail. Up here in the NW, when it gets hot is typically when they start to fail. You can bang your hand on the dash near the relay and get them to work. It's easier to drive cars into and out of the shop rather than push