H22 wont run after obd2 to obd1 swap
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H22 wont run after obd2 to obd1 swap
So I have a 97 Accord that I swapped a 94 H22a motor in to. I'm running stock P13 with ebay obd2-obd1 conversion harness and newly installed skunk2 valvetrain and cams. I'm using the obd2 Accord harness thats been modified to fit the H22. The car will turn over but wont stay running. The only code I'm getting is 4. Which is CKP sensor. I re-routed all the wires from the crank pulley area to the distributor. I double checked my wiring to the distributor and I ran it all correctly. I'm getting fuel everywhere and spark. But the spark looks a little weak and the distributor seems to be turning slower than normal. I also tried adjusting the ignition timing and nothing helped. I know it has something to do with the CKP sensor but I'm not sure where to go from here. Should I wire the CKP right to the ECU to see if theres a disconnect somewhere in the wiring? The motor ran fine before it was taken out of my CB7. I had to put in a new distributor bc the old one broke during install at one of the mounting points. The only other thing I can think of is that I have the timing belt off a tooth or so but I was very careful to keep everything lined up during install. Also there isnt a ground wire to bolt to the thermostat but I have a 1400 page Honda shop manual and it doesn't show a ground for the 97 Accord at the thermostat. Anyone have any ideas?? Any help is greatly appreciated.
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Re: H22 wont run after obd2 to obd1 swap
There should be the ground at the thermostat on the h22. I'd go through wiring again, Have you tried bumping the base fuel pressure to see if it'll stay running. When I had installed some new items my car wouldn't want to stay on till I bumped fuel pressure. Unsure why you're throwing CKP, I'd check wiring again as well as making sure your timing belt is on properly as well as your firing order.
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Re: H22 wont run after obd2 to obd1 swap
I know the H22 has a ground at the thermostat but the 97 Accord harness doesn't have a wire for it. There is a ground that connects to the bottom driver side of the intake manifold though. Firing order is good and I believe the timing belt is good also. As far as bumping the fuel pressure, I can't do that until the car actually idles. It will only turn over and not stay running at all. I have an AEM rail and AEM FPR. Does the pressure go up when the set screw is screwed in or out? I'm not sure, I've never owned one before. I'm starting to wonder if the new distributor is to blame or the cheap ebay conversion harness. I'm gonna try swapping my old distributor back on, even though one of the mounting holes are broke. I'm also gonna try wiring the CKP/CYP sensors right to the ECU. Any other suggestions? Thanks for you input boostedej1.
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Re: H22 wont run after obd2 to obd1 swap
I believe those AEM units work by screwing it in to bump pressure. Its just strange it would throw that code. I'd check the timing just to be sure.
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Re: H22 wont run after obd2 to obd1 swap
I was thinking the same thing with the AEM fpr. I counted the threads that were sticking out on a pic of one installed and running here on HT and mine is out about 4-5 threads more than that one. So I figured I could try screwing it in some and see what happens. I really hope its not the timing bc that belt was a tight squeeze to get on outside the car, I cant even imagine doing it while its in the car.
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Re: H22 wont run after obd2 to obd1 swap
Re-checked all my grounds and even sanded them some to make sure they're getting good contact. Swapped distributors and checked my odb2 to obd1 wiring. I'm stumped.
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Re: H22 wont run after obd2 to obd1 swap
I've got a few other things to try, thanks to a fellow HT Accord member. Timing will be the last thing I look at bc I'm 99% sure I got everything dead on. Just to give everyone a little more info about what I'm working on. Here's my setup:
97 Accord 4 door LX
94 JDM H22a motor/manual transmission
Rosko Racing Euro-R IM w/ITR TB Maxbore to 65mm
Skunk2 Pro 1 Cams
Head work includes 5 angle valve job & new seals
Skunk2 titanium valvesprings
Skunk2 titanium retainers
Skunk2 titanium Valves
Skunk2 adjustable cam gears
Hytech Header
DSM blue top injectors
AEM fuel rail and fuel pressure regulator
Walbro 255 lph pump
3.5" custom intake with BPI flowstack
Greddy timing belt
Apexi WS2 muffler/exhaust system 2-1/2"
Exedy stage 1 clutch & lightweight flywheel
Unorthodox Racing Pullies
NGK Plugs/Wires
No a/c, p/s or c/c
H23 Manual Tensioner Swap
Plan on tuning with Hondata S300
97 Accord 4 door LX
94 JDM H22a motor/manual transmission
Rosko Racing Euro-R IM w/ITR TB Maxbore to 65mm
Skunk2 Pro 1 Cams
Head work includes 5 angle valve job & new seals
Skunk2 titanium valvesprings
Skunk2 titanium retainers
Skunk2 titanium Valves
Skunk2 adjustable cam gears
Hytech Header
DSM blue top injectors
AEM fuel rail and fuel pressure regulator
Walbro 255 lph pump
3.5" custom intake with BPI flowstack
Greddy timing belt
Apexi WS2 muffler/exhaust system 2-1/2"
Exedy stage 1 clutch & lightweight flywheel
Unorthodox Racing Pullies
NGK Plugs/Wires
No a/c, p/s or c/c
H23 Manual Tensioner Swap
Plan on tuning with Hondata S300
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Re: H22 wont run after obd2 to obd1 swap
I also found two plugs that dont connect to anything. Both are located under the hood by the fuse box on the passenger side. The first is a single blue wire with a cap on it. Is this the RPM lead? Does it need to be connected to anything now that I am running an internal coil? The second is a 4 wire plug with 3 brown wires and one black wire. Is this possibly for the cruise control? I couldnt find info on either in my Honda manuals. Any idea what these two plugs are for?
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