I love you guys..



And h22 running gsr ECU tuned.



[Modified by Jason kiDD, 10:42 PM 10/27/2002]

 

I'll add more fuel to the fire: I ran between 14.7 - 15.3 WITH hondata (with someone elses program running 11.5 or higher compression ratio) but I'll show you my slow *** car everyone is refering to.

See for yourself how my car FALLS ON IT'S *** in the 1-2 shift because my clutch won't let go of the gear at high rpms.. yes I can take it to 7000 or higher as stated by Tom, but I would have to wait for the rpms to COME BACK DOWN to god knows what so I can shift.. the result looks like me granny shifting or even hitting the brakes during the 1-2 shift.. this happens in every gear (until recently, it's a lot better, but I have yet to go to the track to see the difference). Also Tom mentioned that my redline is 7200, the truth is that an indicated 7000 rpms in my car is a true 6500 rpms (based on hondata's more acurate rev reading)

here's the vid:
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...MxeTU0MQ%3D%3D

on a final note, my car is fast, just not shifting lol..

FLAME ON.. oh wait.. game on lol




[Modified by H22AMedina, 4:07 AM 10/28/2002]

 

That is interesting. So did you ever find out why your clutch is not shifting?? Specifics please maybe I can help out..

And my engine redlines at 7600 rpm but since the tach is off I usually take it
to about 7800 before the speed limiter kicks in.. Stupid JDM ECU...

Hopefully when I put the spoon chip in I can get some better results.

 

Dude that sucks...wtf is wrong with your car!? Pressure plate problem?

I've heard that the redline on the h22a..JDM anyway, is 7400..non-tach indicated.

Some people have gone to 8K RPM, and claimed an exclusively high redline, when it was really more like 7400 or so.

Why are you bogging out at 6500?

 

is there anyone with an H22 swap that runs right, lets hear about it.

 

lol, give me three more days and I should be on par.. Afterthat its just to upgrade the fuel pump and then take her onto the track.

 

technically called "corner weighting"

you dont have to use sand bags - use the battery or other parts to distribute hte weight to the most appropriate (scale determined) point...

use also suspension modifications to reduce understeer ('plowing')...

such as a larger rear anti-sway bar...

t..

 

LOL... been there, done that already on the road race couse and auto-x course with my old H22 hatch, so I know what it can and can't do. It's funny to see so many ignorant posts still about this subject when I posted my experience on the road race track earlier this year since it had seemed like I was one of the first to take a H22 Civic onto a road course (still archived... do a search).

It's a cool/fun swap, and I might do another one later on down the road, but want something different right now......

 

my car doesn't bog at those rpms, I never said that
and I can shift fine now..
it seems that the dude who put in my swap resurfaced the flywheel incorrectly (maybe) and the fact that I'm using the stock civic master cylinder... just recently one of Tom's co workers adjusted (extended) the clutch rod on the master cylinder and fixed the problem 99 percent (I say 99 percent because I have nothing to compare to but my car and i know for a fact that before I've never been able to pull out of gear at 8000 rpms, but now I can)


[Modified by H22AMedina, 7:01 AM 10/28/2002]

 

You were speaking about redline.....and you said that it's at a tach indicated 7K, but your hondata showed it at 6.5K.

This is what I was asking about. You should have almost another full grand worth of RPM...

When I said 'bog', I was meaning like cut out...redline...lose power...whatever the symptom might be.

 

wow looks like a struck a nerve..? you get bent quick......

Ok after reading though all your bitching you still dont make since. You say you used a slick but then you say all he does is burn out? wdf i dont burn out on a slick when i launch?? did you guys warm up the slick?

You say every problem you have with a h22 swap is due to the h22? wdf come on, you yourself had a problem with the fork in your trans, that doesnt mean all c5 have tranny issues.

I dont see how you can get fired from helping your friend. unless you have to call in sick or something but what ever i dont care about that.

You still have no idea how big of a role a driver plays in a race. The only difference in your case is weight, power,driver--(driver being the most important) you say he was shifting where he need to whats that sapposed to mean he shifted at redline or the rev limiter? Drag racing has alot more factors than that. If stoping being such a (*******) you can see that.

I really doubt that you guys know what your doing at the track. Your friend or whoever the guy is with the h22 just burns out on slicks? Come on you have to know that slick is not good enough and he need a bigger one. It may have been ok for you but he got more power to smoke them then he needs a better tire. You on the other had, If you had traction you wouldnt benfit off the tire. so using the same tire doesnt really help if one guy is burning out and the other guy is going fine. Since you didnt understand the first time you guys did the so called test, Let me give you a example. Say you have a 1000hp drag car and you have a regular cx civic at a drag strip. i garantee you that if you put a 165/60/14 tire on both of them the civic will cross the line first. Now back to situation if he was burning out he could have done better. I know even if you where burning if any he needed more traction than you.

You know what, i really think im not ganna get though to you. You get in a little pissy fit over my first coment and i know you just ganna even more bent if i continue so im ganna end it here cuz i wasted enough of my time if you really want to learn some stuff im me and i can help you out.

also i planning on going to track after i buy some rims and tires. You ran a 13.33 on slick??? i ran **** poor 14.7 with 17" 300 tredwear tires. If i put a slick on now i garantee you i can ran faster than 13. I ran (on a safe street)my car now with those same shitty tires with my friend who ran a 13.34 and keep up with him. If i had traction i would be hitting 12. btw i have a full interior, Not sure if you striped your car when you ran.

 

so far my best is a 14.6 w/2.2 60' i was on nitto drag raidals, but i didn't get a good burn out, so traction was not good(spun all the way through 4th) i hope to go back to the track someday, mabeye fixing my shity test pipe, and getting the right sized intake will help, oh yeah mabeye i can learn to drive too

 

You certainly are an intersting moron, I must say.

Let me break your retardedness down for you:

Yes I ran 13.3 on 20'' M/T "baby" slicks. I've already admitted that I could not get them properly heated. My 60-footers were very street tire-like. My last run when I finally got the slicks heated I pulled a 1.8 60 footer which would have landed my car at at least 12.99 - but my clutch fork broke shifting into 2nd.

...And by the way it's slicks, not slick there coolguy.



One thing's true in that statement, it certainly is **** poor. I ran 13.9 in my full interior'd 1992 Si hatch on 280 treadwear street tires with my same Type R swap that's now in my lighter CX chassis.

You're a FUCKTARD. You really think that slicks (plural, there's 2 of them) will drop 1.8 seconds off of your 1/4 mile time?

Oh my God please just shut up now. I'm sure that there's not a single other person here that would agree with your lame-*** assertion that you can drop almost 2 full seconds from a 1/4 mile time just from slicks alone.



Great, please explain to me what a "safe" street is. So you ran in an unorganized street race against your pal's car that runs 13.34 and you kept up with him, so now you think your car is quicker than 13.3 just because of that?

When does your stupidity end?

First of all let me correct your sentence so others can understand it as a complete thought.

If I had traction then I would be hitting a 12 second 1/4 mile time for sure.

Okay now that we can understand what you said, let me rip you yet another time. How in the **** do you go from a shitty-*** 14.7 down to running 12's with only slicks? Are you THAT brain dead?

Trust me on this one:

I will post this up in the drag racing forum and see what kind of responses I get from it.

Lastly:

What kind of car do you have? I'm curious as to what car an H22A would need to be in in order to run 12's with just bolt-ons and slicks. I'm thinking it won't be full interior like you say.

Please keep the comedy coming - we all need some more hearty chuckles from your ignorance and stupidity.

 

Thanks for the dyno Jason.

Something to consider though:

My UNTUNED B18C5 with only mods being intake, exhaust, and re-chipped P28 ECU laid down 175whp and 123ft/lbs. of torque.

This again is untuned, so my argument that the "H22A has more power" argument is still unproven. Tune mine and add a header (since that H22A has one) and I'll easily nail over 180whp.

So again I still say the power output is too close to say "H22A kills B18C5 in power hands down..." or whatever some people say.

 

Again I love you guys.. Keep up the good laughs it gets boring over here at work sometimes...

You didnt comment on the dyno plots though..?!?

 

The plots look good man, but that's tuned with a header as well.

Read my above post.

 

Sorry I didnt mean to prove anything specific. You already know my feelings that the b18C5 engine is superior is design to the regular JDM or US h22a, excluding the Type S. Just showing you the numbers though..

Tuning plays an important part and it will definately up both your numbers and output potential..

You guys just get soo emotional about it though.. hehe

 

Sorry for some reason my post was delayed..

 

this is exactly what shut everyone up.

thanks for posting that jason

 

what I've been trying to say and show through the video that my car will not SHIFT at anything near an indicated 7000 rpms.. that's all.. if you watch the vid you can see I lose a LOT of time in the 1-2 shift.. my trap speed 97.89 is still pretty good though.. showing (hopefully) the power is the there, but my shifting is not
hence: slow times with fast trap speed (this was with 2.2 sixty foots so I wasn't peeling out too bad)

 

Sorry poison but it doesn't really shut me up because it still doesn't show me an H22A with only mods being bolt-ons pushing over 170whp.

Impressive?

Yes, but not so enough to say that the H22A puts down more power hands down.

And am I seeing only a 9ft/lbs. difference in wheel torque?

If we're talking drag then I'm launching out at my near peak torque, so area under the curve doesn't really apply unless we're talking about pulls in lower gears at below 4000rpm.



So do you H22A guys agree with heiyu too then? think he'll shave almost 2 full seconds off with slicks only?

 

slicks sure, and maybe some stickers will take off another second lol...

 

You're the man Jandro.

Like the tires okay? How bout them brakes?

 

Hasport had one that they road raced and it was very fast. Significantly faster than our B16A powered CRX. I am in the process of building a H22 powered Integra for road racing. It is all in the right spring/shockswaybar combo. Progress group provided ours and the car handled beautifully.

brian g

 

First of all you're comparing a B16A that probably dynos what, 150whp at best and 100ft/lbs. of torque, right? I don't know the set-up, but typically the B16a puts down 140-145whp and right at 100 ft/lbs. of torque to the ground. Not too fair of a comparison you think? The B18C5 puts down same if not more whp up top and only loses around 10ft/lbs. or torque up top. The area under the curve is nice on an H22A - I cannot dispute that, but I'm wondering why honda chose the B18C5 as it's motor of choice for their ultimate FF road-race ready car then and not the H22A.

HASport's suspension set-up was probably nice, but to argue that Tokico Blues on 500F 400R coil-overs make the car handle great is just too much for me to hear. I hear this "My car handles awesome with stock shocks and GC coil-overs with my H22A swap!" and it's just laughable to me.

I run 425F 550R springs with my ITR swap and I also have a 14mm rear swaybar and no front bar (yet) and that gets the rear to rotate nicely. An 85lb. heavier set-up up front with stiffer than rear front springs would lead me to think it would understeer like hell.

Does that sound right?

I read the whole road racing thing from Newman and it sounds pretty cool. Wasn't that track full of long sweeping turns though? what happens when the turns get very sharp and more dense, like say in an auto-X? There is a difference.

A B18C5 swap with the same sus and brakes that Newman had would almost for sure have been quicker IMO.

Now if we had 2 identical cars except for swaps and sus set-up that was tailored better for each swap then the comparison might be more interesting.

The H22A makes more torque down low - no argument there. But what about the gearing? Does anyone have a chart for H22A tranny gearing? Every time I drive my fiancee's Dad's 2001 Prelude Type SH I note how long the gears are - the rpm drop a good deal between shifts. Maybe I'm wrong, I don't know.

I'm still thinking that gearing could play an essential role in the comparison.