Hello All,
I am in the process of installing my second H22A into my 97 civic HX. The problem now is the car will not start. It has a brand new distributor (whole thing), wires, and plugs. It turns but will not start. The previous H22 ran (not for long) so i am doubting that it is the wireharness. I have checked all the fuses and they are all fine. I am going to re check the grounds to verify they are all good. Do any one have an idea on what else to start with. Ohh yeah, the battery is dead, however the shop has a machine to use to jump start your car. On a side note, when i was trying to crank it, i noticed a green connector that comes off the engine harness right near the ECU. It was undone so i connected it to the other piece sitting there. When I did that something started making this humming noise and i was not even trying to start the car. What is this green plug for and does it need to be connected? I have been searching hense why I am going to check my grounds again. But i had no luck on that green connector.

 

Nowhere in your post did you mention if it has fuel, spark. Also you need to make sure that the tbelt isn't broken.

 

The car has fuel, and i am not sure about the spark. Before i replaced the dizzy i would get spark, but not constant or bright, just this wierd when ever it wanted to crap. Someone suggested the controll module was bad. The timing belt is fine because i just put it on the engine before the swap and it has not been started yet. The dizzy is turning, I have checked for that. Anyone know what the green plug is for?

 

Timing. Check your timing. If it's throwing weak spark, your timing is off.

 

where is the green plug? in the cockpit or under the hood? how many wires does the plug have?

 

The green plug is connected to a relay. The sound you are hearing is the fuel pump kicking in after you plugged the green clip in by the ecu. You should only hear it for like 2-3 seconds.

 

Just thought i would follow up just incase someone decides to search for this info one day. I was following the trouble shooting tree for PGM-FI. it led me to check the voltage on pins A23/A24. There was more than one volt so it told me to fix the short via the wires used as a ground on the thermostat housing. I looked at the thermostat housing only to see two hangin wires. That is what happens when you let people help you. I looked on the wiring harness and sall the connector that was suppose to go there just danglin. So I hooked it up and viola, i had a running engine. Now i just have to fix the fuel leak problem. I have a Vortex fuel rail, but i tears up the rubber grommets on the injectors and now they are no good. I am going to get rid of my vortex fuel rail and put it back to stock so i can eliminate all my problems and get the damn thing workin.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Neondog82 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just thought i would follow up just incase someone decides to search for this info one day. I was following the trouble shooting tree for PGM-FI. it led me to check the voltage on pins A23/A24. There was more than one volt so it told me to fix the short via the wires used as a ground on the thermostat housing. I looked at the thermostat housing only to see two hangin wires. That is what happens when you let people help you. I looked on the wiring harness and sall the connector that was suppose to go there just danglin. So I hooked it up and viola, i had a running engine. Now i just have to fix the fuel leak problem. I have a Vortex fuel rail, but i tears up the rubber grommets on the injectors and now they are no good. I am going to get rid of my vortex fuel rail and put it back to stock so i can eliminate all my problems and get the damn thing workin.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good to hear you fixed the problem. I did the same thing with my H22 swap (forgot that damn ground).