silver2006

hey guys i was just wondering what will it take for me to get into the 12's ?? right now i have a h22 in a 99 civic coupe with lsd ...a friend of mine ran a 13.6 with slicks w/o lsd ..all he have was lightweigh flywheel and clutch in his h22 civic ek hatch..i was think 50-75 shot of nitrous just to get me to the 12's ..should i do that or just get type s pistons and cams? or even turbo..what is the outcome on these setup...please answer back, i have the money in hand and dont' know where to start..

Specail Ed

12's are fairly easy to obtain with an H, it just depends on how much $ you want to spend. The cheapest option would be nawz. Nitrous set-ups are about $600 and you'll definitely see 12's then. Turbo and all motor cost wise almost go hand in hand. Again, it really depends on the dollar amount. My opinion would be turbo. Tons of power potential, even if you leave it all stock.

silver2006

if i turbo the h22 do i need to resleeve it?? i dont' want to be in the 11's or 10's yet but can i turbo the stock h22 without blowning up the engine..how much can i boost ..i heard about 7 psi...im willing to spend $2,000,( i already have the h series with the lsd already) i dont' want to really put a big risk on my engine, so if i turbo how much can i boost with stock h22..if i go nitrous how much shot?? and wet or dry?...

Adam.

Keep the boost conservative, keep the tune top notch use slicks and you will be fine.

Rad Racing

If you're just looking for a 12 you can be cheap and run nitrous. Do a lil research and put it in. A 75 shot with an H in a Civic is very nice and can be reliable. If you want a slight challenge and a lil more money you can easily do it all motor as well, with a stock block.

Oh yea go WET if you go with Nitrous.......

Specail Ed

7psi will definitely get you into the 12's, but with a good tune as DarkKnight said. You will also need slicks because you'll just fry the tires off. Most H's running around 7psi are in that 300 whp range, depending on set up. You could easy piece together a turbo kit from ebay for $2000. But stay away from the SSAutochrome stuff. Cheap prices, cheap quality.

silver2006

thanks to all you guy...just the answer i was looking for, im going turbo

Specail Ed

Not a problem. H-T isn't all that scary for a noob. Ask decent questions, get decent answers.

slim9300

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by silver2006 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks to all you guy...just the answer i was looking for, im going turbo </TD></TR></TABLE>

I can't stress it enough. If you go turbo, it's all about the tune. I had a conservative tune on 6.5 lbs. and a ring went 6000 miles later. Just keep in mind that some stock H22's will hold up for awhile and others won't. Even with a conservative tune it's somewhat of a game of chance. If you go turbo be prepared for a rebuild which will run $3000 plus if you do it right. It's an expensive game if you want to do it right. And trust me, do it right the first time, even if it means saving longer for what you want.

I would suggest browsing the FI forum for a few hundred hours before making an decisions on what to by. lol There is a ton of helpful info!

skunked

If your goal is just to run 12's I would keep it NA. Wouldn't take too much.

slim9300

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skunked &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If your goal is just to run 12's I would keep it NA. Wouldn't take too much.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you can't tell from my comment, I second this idea.

hondaZvic

Special Ed, i agree with most everthing u said, except this line here:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Specail Ed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Turbo and all motor cost wise almost go hand in hand. </TD></TR></TABLE>

silver2006, take skunked's advice on this one.

Specail Ed

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaZvic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Special Ed, i agree with most everthing u said, except this line here:
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks. I wasn't trying to get into things too much and complicate things. If you do relatively small motor things, it won't break your wallet. But when you start talking sleeves, pistons, headwork, valves, cams, and so on, building a NA motor could be a little costly. Building a motor will run you as much if not more than most turbo kits. Just food for thought.

hondaZvic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Specail Ed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks. I wasn't trying to get into things too much and complicate things. If you do relatively small motor things, it won't break your wallet. But when you start talking sleeves, pistons, headwork, valves, cams, and so on, building a NA motor could be a little costly. Building a motor will run you as much if not more than most turbo kits. Just food for thought.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats true,

however for the OP's goal of 12's, i was trying to point out that Skunked has hit this goal for next to nothing when it comes to price compared to a turbo setup. (which is badass i might add)

skunked

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaZvic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
thats true,

however for the OP's goal of 12's, i was trying to point out that Skunked has hit this goal for next to nothing when it comes to price compared to a turbo setup. (which is badass i might add)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks. Unless your car is pig heavy 12's are possible on the motor. My teg (2350 lbs) went 12.7's on a stock internal USDM swap and slicks.

Adam.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skunked &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Thanks. Unless your car is pig heavy 12's are possible on the motor. My teg (2350 lbs) went 12.7's on a stock internal USDM swap and slicks. </TD></TR></TABLE>

YOu were with driver weighted!

skunked

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DarkKnight1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

YOu were with driver weighted!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Of course, that's the only weight that counts. The car doesn't drive itself so why compare weight of the vehicles without the driver?

Adam.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skunked &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Of course, that's the only weight that counts. The car doesn't drive itself so why compare weight of the vehicles without the driver? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Because most people assume it's the vehicle's weight.

skunked

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DarkKnight1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Because most people assume it's the vehicle's weight.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Assumptions make ******** out of people.

In drag it's always with driver.