SuperCivic

hello..i currently have a B16 in my EF, but how hard would it be to swap in a GSR motor?? what else will i have to buy to make it work? thanks in advance.

dumbchild

use the same b-series mounts.
use 90-93 teg axles
use your B16 ECU - chipped with Mugen program to eliminate the secondary 02 sensor, knock sensor, and rev limiter
use your b16 distributor
put a skunk2 intake mani on the engine to get rid of the dual-stage butterflies
use your b16 tranny on the engine
drop it in, chop the ribs out of the hood to get it to close.
custom weld your shift linkage
and you should be set to go, unless i've forgotten something, but this is pretty much my set-up.

SuperCivic

so use the hasport mounts,
which wiring harness is used?
would it be possible to convert to ODB1 so i don't have to get the skunk2 manifold, or chip an ecu?

Speed PHreak

Don't forget this

dumbchild

i'm using the Hasport mounts and am pleased as I had no clearance issues with the engine.

there is no harness if you use the B16 ECU - just plug and play with the relocation of a couple of the existing harness pins.

you can convert to OBD-1 with a harness, but I'm not sure who sells them, which is best etc..
I believe Blown90Hatch in the EF forum sells them?..

dumbchild

oh yeah...
a little "love" with the hammer will be needed to make some room for the alternator pulley, as well as the rear (firewall) frame-rail

SuperCivic

more then with a 1st gen b16? that's what i have and i'm looking to upgrade. i was just thinking that converting to obd 1 would be cheaper than buying a skunk 2 manifold, chipping an ecu, etc.

Charlie Moua

iTrader: (3)

[B][ <U></U> /B] I'm also thinking about doing this. Well for wiring you could:
1) get Blownhatch Non0OBD to OBD-1 conversion harness $150
2) then you would have to get all OBD-1 GSR parts such as fuel rail, injectors, dizzy. and maybe the altenator too...but not sure on that last one.

I this is what i would do, because in't going turbo with hondata.

Jeff C

no, the same thing but with more liters
stay obd0 and get a skunk2 mani; i have a good buddy runnin obd0 components, skunk2 mani on 95 gsr motor in 91 si hb and it works great
if you stay obd0 all you will need is the mani itself, $310 maybe an intake gasket too $?
if you convert to obd1 you will need a dist $150 (used), chipped p28 $150, heated O2 sensor $70 (new), obd0&gt;obd1 harness $160 and you will have to run some more wires
at least that is how i feel
*all prices are approximate

dumbchild

I agree with staying OBD-0 (why I did it...)
it works out to be about the same price / cheaper. plus you get a bit more power from the intake mani and your car doesn't become an electrical gremlin.

Speed PHreak

OH yeah, just so i'm not a post ***** here. THIS may help ya out some. GSR in CRX, but it'll be the same process for a 4gen hatch

~peace

Steven

SuperCivic

so will my b16 dizzy bolt up to the gsr? is there any reason my b16 intake wouldn't work rather than buying a skunk2 manifold? thanks for all this help guys..i really appreciate every response!

dumbchild

yes your B16 dizzy will bolt up
But no I don't think your intake manifold will. (different bolt pattern?)

SuperCivic

can i use the SiR intermediate shaft and axles that i already have?
where can i get my PWO ecu chipped in this manner, and how much?

dumbchild

i'm not sure whether your current axle set-up will work - I don't know enough about that.
I got a local guy to chip my ecu (live in Vancouver, Canada), but I'm sure someone on this board could chip it for you. So cost will depend on who does it. I paid $250 CAD to have it done.
the Mugen chip I used has;
no revlimit
vtec at 3800 rpm
elimination of secondary 02 sensor, knock sensor, (and vtec oil pressure sensor I think?...)
plus better fuel map etc...
I have the actual chip code at home somewhere, but Im at work right now.

Jeff C

yes you can use your sir axles and such but the problem you will run into is in the future when you will need to replace an axle. if you can get another sir axle then you will be fine but if you cant then you will need to put one together using two different usdm axles. the hasport sight will tell you exactly what i am talking about.

are you sure about that, seems too premature. mine is set at 5800

if it is an obd0 b16 then it does not have a second o2 sensor nor knock sensor and dont get the rev limiter taken off because the motor will stop making power before that anyways and you will probably blown

[Modified by Jeff C, 4:09 PM 7/18/2002]


[Modified by Jeff C, 4:21 PM 7/18/2002]

dumbchild

Yes I'm sure that the Mugen chip Vtec activation point is 3800 rpm, I found it a bit too early, but I have a VAFC so I just set it higher.

As for the Ecu: the JDM OBD-0 B16 Ecu / engine require two 02 sensors if I'm not mistaken, whereas the B18c1 engine only requires one 02 sensor. So you need to chip it, otherwise the ECU will throw a code and I think this will cause your car to always run in open loop so your idle is gonna suck. as for getting the rev limiter removed, that just comes with the chip. obviously the engine will stop making power and blow up if you take it above its max rpm's. But just watch your tach. and you'll be fine.

SuperCivic

my current motor is a b16..1st gen..it uses two o2 sensors. i can always get a DC header and weld in an extra bung. my current ecu is a PWO with an N1 program..vtec activates at 5000 rpm and fuel curves are more aggressive. the only problem is the GSR block will not have a knock sensor? so all my b16 stuff will bolt onto the skunk2 manifold? hmm now i really need to know what to do about the ecu..

ricodemus

I was just gonna post this Q. I am in the same situation, 1st gen b16 and want more. I'm tired of having to beat this motor to get some power. I have a zdyne chipped ecu that disables all that extra crap, so I might try and use that if I do it.

dumbchild

yes you could just weld the extra bung in. i avoided doing that because i figured I'd never get it in the same place as stock so the readings would be slightly different, and the ecu might throw codes etc...
But if you have your ECU chipped already, and it has more aggresive fuel curves then it should be pretty much ready to plug and play. I dunno about the knock sensor tho.
Maybe Zdyne has something they could do with it?
Or just throw the Mugen chip in and your ready to go.
everything else just bolts right up.

Jeff C

he is right and i apologize for the misleading you
my buddy with the gsr in his hatch is running a crx si ecu that was converted to a B16A One Wire by Zdyne and it runs good here is the link http://www.zdyne.com/ then click on Convert

Bleed Black

How bout you save your self a hassle and just get a GSR bottom end(or a B20). Upgrade cams to GSR,ITR,or CTR and upgrade the IM to a ITR/CTR. Then all you have to worry about is the ECU. If your B16 head is OK, then it would be much better to use since you KNOW everything will plug in.

Chugger

if you use the b16 exu it will most likely do away with the knock sensor i dont htink that 1st gens had them

craftymatt

dammit, sorry didn't see the date on this post, lol