liquid51

I have a pretty nasty throttle bounce. I did a search, but only turned up one result dealing with d15 idle bounce w/ different symptoms than my own.
It's starts up right away, and idles at around 1400 rpm. But it has a steady, rapid bounce by a couple or three hundred rpm. It doesn't seem to be a fast idle valve problem, but I really don't know. Could it be vacuum leak? TPS? MAP? Or possibly any of the above? Thanks.

Jason kiDD

Most likely vacumn leak. Check all your hoses and also if you took of the throttle body make sure you get a gasket for it..

poison

Make sure the TPS and MAP harnesses are not switched, and check all nipples on the intake manifold. Make sure the gaskets also seal properly too.

liquid51

k. I'll check these things.
I've had a few other ppl tell me it might be because I don't have the exhaust hooked up yet (getting custom cat made. I have header and secondary on). I don't think that could be the problem, but who knows. Could that have anything to do with it either?
Thanks for the replies.

apexi

Does it do this right away or do you have to wait until it warms up?

liquid51

no, it does it right away. I haven't let it warm up yet because it's so loud (unfortunatly, I'm in a sub). I figured I'd get this solved first.

apexi

Just as an FYI. Experience from my swap. I did not have MAP, O2, EGR, and Knock Sensor wired up and she started up and idle just fine.
Check you FITV again, if it's cold irratic idling. There are two holes inside of the throttle body, one at 10 O'Clock and one at 4 O'clock. Those by passes the butterfly. Take your fingers and plug it up. If the idle smooths out then it's IAC or FITV.
Another thing to check is: Timing. You could also try turning the idle screw on the TB clock wise until it stops.
hope this helps.

mister2racer

first make sure that everything is hooked up correctly by verifying wire colors on the plugs and all that.

i have done a h22 swap in a customers car... havent done mine yet got the motor sitting here.

from experience the idle bounced when i did the customers swap. i took the advice from another shop owner who told me the h22 will do that without the coolant lines for the throttle body and IAC hooked up. I figured this was BS but i gave it a shot and after about 30 seconds after the change the car idled fine from then on and every time its started cold.

preluder

This is what you do bro. Okay lets start off with the simple stuff. Im assuming which I shouldnt have you gotten your swap first fill up the radiator with extra coolent. Then use the coolant bleeder near the block and also leave the radiator cap on after only the car has cooled down preferably before you start it up.

Then when your done take the idle air control valve off and clean the screeen part off and make sure no gunk is in the lines. THen last but not least theres the fast idle thermal valve its just below the throttlebody lip just under the cold air intake connection part.

There should be three screws holding it up Disconnect it and take it off. Then theres like a bronze plate thats in the back of the piece that you just took off. It has two screws in the back of it open it up some coolent should fall out dont worry about it. Now theres a white circle thingy in there and in the middle is a pointy cone like thingy in the middle of it.

Wind the circle thingy back going inwards not out wards ,inwards. hopefully then it should make it stop. If not it could be the tps sensor get a voltmeter and set it by a professional to have it at 4.5 and 5.0 at wot I thing ( someone correct me if im wrong on this one) and you may have a vacuum leak. Spray some liquid dishwashing soapnear the vacuum lines and see if the idle stops immediately if it does inspect for little air bubbles and may hopefully you will be able to find your leak. hope this helps

liquid51

yes, these do help (I hope). I've checked all vacuum lines with mityvac, and they seem ok. I'll check IAC valve and FITV valve tomorrow. Is the pointy cone thingy the wax end on the valve?
I also noticed a tiny hole in one of the hoses running below the TB. I replaced it immediately. But it was funny though. I would've expected there to be enough pressure to squirt fluid, but it wasn't.
Anyway, I'll try these next. Thanks.

MPower332TI

If you do everything preluder said to do and it didnt help then get your thumb outta your *** and take it to someone else. ha. j\k. What he said will fix your problem. Worked on my H22 civic.

liquid51

I disconected the TPS and it seemed to idle ok. No fluctuation anyway. So I'd assume thats my problem. But, why the f*** can't I buy a TPS from honda without the whole freakin TB?!?
Where can I get a TPS?

Jonathan_ED3

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by liquid51 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I disconected the TPS and it seemed to idle ok. No fluctuation anyway. So I'd assume thats my problem. But, why the f*** can't I buy a TPS from honda without the whole freakin TB?!?
Where can I get a TPS?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Because they like to rape us

Junkyard, or here on H-T. Search through the classifieds, and put out a WTB thread.

liquid51

ok, this might be pretty stupid. But I can assume that the problem going away with the tps unplugged means that the tps is the culprit, right? I just don't want to go through the tme and trouble of getting another tps if that's not 100% the problem.

Jason kiDD

The good thing is that you can get a tps from a lude, civic, or integra. They are usually the same. That should help your search a bit..