jr_deleon

iTrader: (1)

To run it in the 90-93 Accord, do not run the resistor box as the injectors are saturated. So just disconnect the plug. You can use the H22 dizzy. You can run the p13, but make sure you have the knock sensor wiring added or you'll keep throwing a knock sensor code and it'll pull alot of timing (square plug above oil filter)

jr_deleon

iTrader: (1)

It uses an 93-01 H22 water pump not an Accord's. You'll see when you take it off. By your username i'd assume that its an external coil distributor car. So if you plan to use an F20B dizzy, for one you'll notice it has one plug instead of two like the Accord. So you'd have to add that. Then your car has the crank sensor at the oil pump and the F20B has it in the dizzy so you'll have to do the wiring there too. The easier way would be to use an OBD1 H22 dizzy (two plugs, external coil, crank sensor in the dizzy) and just get the crank sensor wires over to the dizzy (much easier than it sounds and you can make it look stock if youre good) otherwise have a KNOWLEDGEABLE person help you.

For extending wires, first you can plug the harness to the new motor (plug in the injectors first). Then what you do is try to plug in every plug you can till you get to the ones you cannot plug anymore. You just extend from there. Some of the connectors will be different so you'll have to swap accordingly. You'll have to add vtec pressure/solenoid/knock/IAB wiring if you plan to use the P13 (IAB is totally up to you) That should get you started

F20b97AccordLx

oh wow thanks thats alot of good info, so would it be easier to just use a dizzy from a lude?

just say your edited post man thanks alot all the questions i was about to ask you just got answered man your awsome. so by next pay check i should be all set to get it started i'll probly be back asking more questions but the guy helping me has done plenty of swaps in the past so should be pretty smooth

jr_deleon

iTrader: (1)

Yeah make sure its from the 93-95 Prelude VTEC (TD-61U). that way it has the crank sensor it there. But remember you have to get the CKP wiring to the dizzy (trace them through your harness)

audiophile26

okay so i just need to unplug the resistor box? but wont that break the connection going to the common side of each injector? or do i need one of those jumper plugs (look like a plug but it has metal tabs inside) i was told that it jumps the feed from the ecu to the common sides of the injectors. also i need to know where the vacuum lines run from in the box on the firewall they are loose and not bundled like the ones in a link i followed from here. and also when turn the key the cluster goes crazy showing my high beams as being on and my fuel gauge goes down to nothing and my drivers side turn signal light in my cluster lights up i was told by a friend that its the wrong cluster in the car and i need to re pin the the wires going into the cluster BUT instead of doing that i purchased another 91 cluster and the plugs do not match up at all is there something i am missing? i really need this cluster to work so i can look for CELs what should i do?

jr_deleon

iTrader: (1)

The resistor box simply adds resistance and is powered by a single source. If you can find the jumper (which i believe is an 8pin connector as opposed to the 6 pin on the resistor) and want to use it thats fine. The vacuum lines will not be difficult to figure out if you've been under the hood of Hondas for a while as the two intake manifolds (the Accord's and the F20B's) have vacuum lines in the same spots more or less. Before removing, closely observe which goes where (E.G. #7 vacuum goes to port ** and so forth)

As for the cluster situation, be sure to check your grounds (im assuming you've swapped the motor out already) Bad grounds after swaps are the most common cause of problems. Check for looseness, corrosion, excessive rust at the contact point, and make sure the surface that is being grounded on is a good ground.

Sorry if my info is sketchy but im in a rush. I'll look it over and tell you what's up. the problems you have a minor ones that much i can tell you so far...

audiophile26

i just came back in from the garage and i put the p13 in trying to get this to crank the egr made a noise i did not hear when i had the pt3 ecu in it and it sounded differently whilst trying to turn it over i can smell unburnt gas (as i put the the h22 injectors in ) but no luck starting i have checked and rechecked the grounds the vacuum to the egr is correct and i pulled the dizzy to see if the rotor was 180 degrees off i spun it around and tried to reinstall it and no dice so i spun it back around and reinstalled i pulled a plug and it looked wet so i am getting fuel but man there are only 3 things to make an engine run and i know i have all three but still not firing up the main relay is good because i am getting fuel to the rail and yes the swap is already in it HAS to be something simple as the car ran before when it had the h22 in it (the h22 had a stripped out drivers side mount and was leaking out coolant is what prompted me to replace the engine)
any insight is greatly appreciated

jr_deleon

iTrader: (1)

So hows the ignition timing (not just the timing at the flywheel with a timing light but the components under the timing cover)? Did you just put the swap in and start it or did you do your belt/tensioner/pump/seals? Which dizzy are you running? If the injectors are wet fouled with fuel are you sure that you have spark? Because there are 4 things needed to make an engine run (bit including the obvious starter) Air, fuel, spark and compression which one of these is not involved? Do you have the vacuums in the same ports as they were on the H22 you had in it prior?

Nothing I'm saying is meant to be taken the wrong way just have to ask these questions to help out.

audiophile26

the timing is dead on compression is reading out to 190 190 185 190 im not sure of the vacuum situation but i have been told that the accords have to have a functioning instrument cluster to run is this true?

will lewis

i want to put a f20b in my intgra DA. what do i need to do? if someone could email me forums that would be great wlplayer909@aol.com

jr_deleon

iTrader: (1)

But what about spark? If the plug you pulled out was wet (and it shouldn't be) then lack of spark could be the issue.

When i had a CB Accord and completed my H swap and i had the cluster disconnected the car turned over, idled, and drove without it (testing it around the back roads) That shouldnt be an issue

epturla

hi guys i just want to ask.. how can i adjust the idle for an f20b engine? i see that there is no idle screw adjusment in the throttle body. how can i adjust the idle if that so..? because im having hard time of my idle its too low like lower than the mid line from 0-1. and when i turn on the a/c it will lower the idle so..

jr_deleon

iTrader: (1)

The problem is that you really cannot do it if you have all F20B parts because its IAC was supposed to control that if it were operating. However if you have engine management like hondata and such, you can adjust the IAC duty cycle (assuming you're using an H22 IAC or any other than the F20B's) Or if you really want to and you dont have the above parts, use an H22 TB (which will be bigger or smaller than yours depending on which F20B you have)

brian_00prelude

im doing something simular but im puting the f20b in to 00 prelude i was wondering if by chance you could tell me what oteher honda uses the same distributer as the f20b becaseu while tranporting the engine the cap broke so i need a new one . next i would like to know what colour are the wires im going to need to trace from my preludes wiring harnes crank sensor to the dizzy on the f20b's . i was wondering if i could use the throttle body that came with the f20b becasue i lost mine while taking out my h22a busten engine.

becase from what i read thats all i need now for my car to turn over can you help please

jr_deleon

iTrader: (1)

As for an internal coil diz cap like the F20B's i know when i order, i use the 92-93 Integra cap. As for the wire colors, I dont know off the top of my head what colors but if you are familiar with where the crank sensor is on your car (in the oil pump/crank pulley area) unplug it and look at the colors, then trace those two colors to the shock tower plugs and go from there. Also you do know that the F20B dizzy has only one plug versus 2 on the BB6? The F20B has no tach wire, and the black/yellow 12v ignition wire is on the 8pin plug. So what i did was take the two wire plug completely from another diz, sliting the rubber seal and pulled out the complete tach wire and added it to the only open prong on the F20B ignitor. I cut and soldered the ignition wire to the black/yellow wire from the 8 pin plug. Thats that

As for the F20B TB question remember that if you use the entire F20B manifold, your car will not operate the 3 wire IAC so will not idle properly and the F20B does not have an idle adjustment screw (the manual version at least) Even if you swapped the upper plenums and used the F20B TB you still cannot adjust the idle at the TB but the IAC will work (and without the FITV under the TB like the H22 it will not let sufficient amount of air to idle the car when cold) Basically the car will idle low even cold. So that is going to pose an issue

juan3023

Does any one know where can I buy a f20b cranck pulley ?

jr_deleon

iTrader: (1)

http://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/wh...php?prodID=534

scvludedood

i have the f20b in my 99 bb6. brian....your gonna be hurtin for torque. ive had my motor about 2 months now and im already looking for an f23 crank and rods

jr_deleon

iTrader: (1)

Yeah particularly in those 5th gen Preludes (Around 3000 pounds or so without the driver). The F23 crank option is a good one and you dont have to worry so much about resleeving it as you would for the H22

In my case because i have my Civic (and the fact my F20B's a 2.2 now) it wont even be an issue. I think after a year and running it around I'll piece together a turbo kit, change out the manifold, injectors, cams and pistons and really put it down.....

brian_00prelude

ok so i found the dizzy off a 91 accord its the same thing. now all i need to do is get the crank positioning sensor out the way cause my friend and i got it to kind of turn over .. but i need to know if any one can get or find a diagram of both the h22 crank position sensor and the f20b's so i can look and figure out how to merge the two im using my preludes wiring harness not the f20b's i found my throttle body so im using the entire intake manifold also. so its just the wiring i have to worry about now got any pics as to how to set it up
. . oh thanks for the warning about the torque once i get it in running condition i will worry about getting that back ..

jr_deleon

iTrader: (1)

91 Accord dizzy being the same bolt pattern? Or youre speaking of the cap?

The F20B dizzy wires for the crank sensor i dont have a harness here as i usually do. And i dont have a helms for a 97-01 'Lude (all you have to do for the Lude's CKP wiring is look at the wires that are left on your harness close to the oil pump) even the crank sensor left on your old motor. There should be a two pin sensor on your motor/ two pin connector left over by the oil pump. Those wire colors will need to merge with the crank sensor plug. For the dizzy ones looking at the HARNESS side of the dizzy wiring,
top row of pins will be A B C D
bottom row of pins are E F G H

Exactly the way i put it up, the crank sensor wires are B and F. whatever colors those are needs to be merged with the wires you find from the aforementioned plugs. Dont get the wires coming off the dizzy; get them from the plug that connects to the dizzy plug. Remember what i said about the big two pin plug that goes to the tach/12v ignition from earlier posts. That should do it for your dizzy wiring.

brian_00prelude

yea i was talking about the cap . ok im going to trace it using my crank sensor and matching the colors to the ones on the dizzy thats what you saying then when i get those wires joints connect them back to the wireharness ones ?

jr_deleon

iTrader: (1)

Yes. You could do it either way, but it wouldnt look too clean if you bypassed the harness side just to connect it. Plus if you did it that way, what will happen when you need to replace the dizzy and the wires are connected to it? Go get her started!

audiophile26

waiting on a set of gauges to come in then i can teel you folks more...

Rude Awakening

Anyone that has the F20B in a BB6, is there anything special I need to know to use it in this car? Anything that should be used from the stock H22A4? Only thing I know so far is the TB if my motor wnds up being an auto.