guamBOMBER

This past summer I thought it would be a good idea to upgrade my 99 EK Hatch. So I bought a 97 b18C with LSD from hmotors. I also bought a budget tuck b series wiring harness from hmotors. I sourced a p28 off of craigslist with a spoon sports chip. I installed everything with some friends and ran into a CEL CODE4. I looked up the code and it's a crank position sensor in dizzy. I then contacted Steve at hmotors and exchanged my dizzy for another one, still code4. I then called rywire and spoke with Ryan and sent my harness in. They tested everything and said harness was good and was tested. I get harness back and reinstall. And still code4. I'm stuck, I'm wondering if I still need dizzy, or should I just get a chipped ecu from a company online. I dunno, I'm stuck, please help!!!

Specs:
-99 Ek civic hatch dx
-97 spec b18c w LSD
-rywire budget tuck wire harness obd2a-obd1
-chipped p28 ecu spoon sports tune

HondaPartsHero

OBD2 dizzy diagram



OBD1 dizzy and ECU

guamBOMBER

Thanks bro, I have a new ecu on the way and I'm crossing fingers on this one!

guamBOMBER

Got the new ecu in and still code 4. I'm going to go buy a meter to test continuity at autozone. Hoping to get this corrected ASAP stupid honda problems

joey1320

It's not a stupid honda problem, it's a "I'm going to swap, replace, convert and add all these stuff" problem...

Buy a DVOM, check continuity at the right pins. Do a voltage drop test also to make sure you don't have some unmetered corrosion or issues.

Follow the test plan given to you by Honda and you should be okay...

guamBOMBER

Ok here's a little update. After running to lowes and grabbing a volt meter, I followed directions from the earlier post. I have continuity on both crank position sensor wires (from dizzy to harness) and I'm getting a OHM reading of 358, the factory rating I should be at is 350-700, am I still in the green? I will run thru the directions and test again after I get off of my shift and drive an hour and a half back home. Big thank you to everyone trying to help me out with this matter.

guamBOMBER

Ok I ran all test with my multimeter until the last step. How do I check continuity to body ground and b15?

JRCivic1

Polarity is also critical... make sure the wire colors match at the junction of the distributor plug and engine harness plug. In addition, make sure that the pin locations that you are probing at the ECU plugs match the wire color in the diagram from HondaPartsHero. This is a common problem experienced with many tuck harnesses and aftermarket distributors.

The Fix: Simply de-pin the two CKP wires (colors: blue, white) from the engine harness side of the distributor plug, flip the two positions and re-insert them. Clear your ECU codes and start the car. If the problem goes away, you are golden. Have a nice day. If the code comes back, flip the wires back to their original positions. No harm no foul.

Good luck.

HondaPartsHero

I've added the second page

guamBOMBER

Thanks man, gonna give it another go today

guamBOMBER

Ok, here's an update sorry I started school and haven't had any good wrench time.

-I bought a new dizzy, still code 4 on p28 with b18c basemap

-I also bought a jumper harness to be able to run my factory obd2 jdm p72
And now I got a code 20. The Check engine light flashes 2 long pauses, ELECTRONIC LOAD DETECTOR ON OBD2 p72

I don't even know where to go with this, it's gonna cost about 250-300 to troubleshoot at Revolutions in Colorado Springs. If anyone has anything I would appreciate any info available! Again I'm still running into code 4 on obd1 chipped p28 and when I jump back to obd2 I'm running into a code 20! Please help!