lol Your O2 is bad just replace it. It doesnt matter how long the wires are. And if you dont see any red/black wires then it may be orange/black but that is why I posted the pin A6.. Common guys its really simple..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92b16vx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'm throwing the 41 also.There is no RED/BLK wire in my harness.
but the YEL/BLK is pinned at A23 in the original schematic (less than 1v) and needs to be moved to A25 or B1 (battery voltage at all times).Other than that
GRN to GRN/WHT D22
WHT to ORG/BLU A6
then the last one I can't figure out cuz the wires are different colors than the Helms says they are.As I said above there is no RED/BLK.I this is off,let me know,I've heard to many different things about it,this is what I have narrowed down through pinouts and talking to others..</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't have RED/BLK either on my harness, but my car has been through a variety of different swaps, and I'd say a good 15-20 wires from the ECU to the strut tower are just solid white. So tracing wiring on my car is quite the headache.

I think I'm just going to run the green and white wires completely seperate like Jason said since I know orange/black, and yellow/black are getting power for sure.

 

re-ran the wiring straight from the ECU, and now it won't let me check any codes.

CEL just stays on solid instead of flashing when i try to check.

I even took the wires out of the plug and put them together, and it still does the same thing.

WTF is this?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Si-G93 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">IM throwing a code 1, which is the o2 sensor for obd1 engines, so i am assuming that you all have obd2 if you are throwing a code 41? anyways i think the reason why is because when we extended the wires, we didnt soder them, but instead clamped them. I am going to soder them and see if that corrects the problem. The other reason why i think that its that is because the check engine light doesnt come on right away. I usually see it trun on after about 10 to 15 min of driving, but it is so random that i never know when it will come on. So i think it is getting the right reading sometimes, but then failing at other times </TD></TR></TABLE>

can anyone tell me if i just need the wiring sodered?

 

you should have soldered them in the 1st place anyway

But if you did a good job with clamps, it should be gettinr reliable power.

You sure your o2 isn't just bad?

 

? not sure till we soder them, but i wouldnt think it was bad because it only comes on after a little while, kinda like it is working and then their is a miss in the system and the check engine light comes on. Wouldnt a bad o2 sensor check engine light come on right when the car is started rather than randomly as i am driving?

 

No. I already answered your question. You have a bad o2 sensor. And no it doesnt have to be soldered to work. I use clamps and mine works just fine. However soldering is cleaner..