I finally got my (insert 5 minute rambling of every curse word known here) Code 4 fixed!! Details below for future reference!

Symptoms:

Engine won't rev over 3,000 ( 3K ) RPM, ECU is cutting fuel and/or spark in safety mode
Studdering idle
Timing essentially zero BTDC unless distributor is moved to full advance location
No timing advance when reving engine
Code 4 crank position sensor on ECU
Very low power

Attempted Fix:

pull "B" connector from ECU and check for 350-500 ohms between B10 and B12
- 360 ohms, passed (if fail, replace sensor or distributor)
check B10 to ground and B12 to ground
- no conductivity, passed (if fail, replace wire shorted to ground)
double check continuity and order of all wires from distributor harness to ECU
-all good conduction and proper location to ECU
Run auxillary ground wires to valve cover, head, dizzy body, intake manifold
-no help
Double check crank/cam timing to make sure belt is not off by a tooth
-spot on, no trouble there
Replaced dizzy with 91 integra, cut off one leg to fit
- still no help
Swap integra internals to B16 case
- still no help
Replace ECU with second unit
- still no help
Run computer data grade shielded wire from distributor plug to ecu plug
- PROBLEM SOLVED!

Now here is the kicker...I've been soldering and splicing wires longer than some people on this list have been alive. I was extremely careful to make sure each splice was well soldered, wrapped with heat shrink tube, and in the case of the shielded wires, I peeled back the outer casing to expose the shielding mesh and wrapped a conductive layer of aluminum over my splice to make sure the shielding was continuous. Remember, my wiring DID pass the Helms test for conductivity and shorts to ground as stated above.

At first I thought that the crank angle sensor (crank position sensor) was just extremely sensitive to radio frequency noise. I pulled the grounds for the shielding on my new wire and it still would not set a code! I don't know what the heck was going on inside that wire bundle, but what ever it was the ECU did not like it!

SO, all you peeps out there with the "won't rev past 3k" syndrome, be highly suspicious of that wire if you are setting a code 4. Even though the resistance numbers may check out, there could be some monkey business going on under the insulation. Especially if you have made a splice.

ok i went throught the wires and found out pin b12 was empty. For some reason i moved it . move the wire and BAM it works great. Thanks alot for the quick responses.

Matt
Mraudio@aol.com