mojoGSR92

This is the guide that I never quite finished, but I thought this could help some people who haven't undertaken and are thinking about doing their own swap. Any feedback is welcome.


DB2 Chassis Swap Guide (1992-1993 Acura Integra GSR):
Swapping out the B17A1for the 2nd generation B16A (92-95 Civic SiR)


Foreword and Tips Before You Start

Please do not attempt a swap with out a few very key items.
The factory Helm’s manual. Do not attempt an engine swap with only a Hayne’s manual or Chilton’s. The factory manual has a wealth of information and detail not available in any other manual. I cannot even imagine doing this swap without this text.
A torque wrench. Without a torque wrench you run the risk of under-tightening or over-tightening fasteners. Using incorrect torque values when tightening fasteners can result in catastrophic failure. It can also be a real inconvenience if you break off the head of a bolt, or strip out a tapped hole. Use common sense when reading torque values, and use a torque wrench to insure that they are precise. A ball joint failure, motor mount failure, or other similar event that occurs as a result of improper torque values can be dangerous and costly.
An engine hoist. Whether you are using a cherry picker, a ceiling mounted hoist, or even a forklift with locked-down chains, use something that can properly handle the load of the engine and maneuver it safely. Use chains that are rated for the weight of the engine, and do not use chains that are rusty or damaged. I also suggest using some method of locking down the ends of the chain. If you choose to use some sort of clip as your method of attachment, make sure it too is load appropriate. I had an end-clip break while I was installing the wiring harness. That is an incredibly disturbing thought considering I was under the oil pan earlier that day. I cannot stress this word of caution enough. Ask around to friends, friends of friends, co-workers, your parents’ co-workers, friends of the family, etc for an engine hoist. I found no less than three people who were willing to loan me one. If all else fails, you can rent them for around $25/day from a company like Nation’s Rent.

Whatever can go wrong, will go wrong, and if it doesn’t, you are just plain lucky. This is a philosophy to live by working on any car, any time. The major issues I had with my swap were stubborn spindle nuts, ball joints, and a badly damaged (in shipping) oil pan on the B16A. Be prepared to deal with a lot of customer service reps when things don’t get shipped on time or parts get damaged. Learning about the company you are buying from ahead of time will save you a lot of trouble in this area. This philosophy applies to safety, stubborn bolts, ordering parts, and just about anything else you can imagine. Use your common sense. Expect the worst, but hope for the best and you won’t be disappointed with the results of your swap.

Create a timetable for yourself. Call ahead for any parts you wish to order for your vehicle and see if they are on backorder, or if they will have to be shipped by ground. I know from personal experience that waiting on parts can be one of the most frustrating things about doing your own engine swap. I don’t advise doing your own engine swap if you don’t have a daily driver other than your Integra and you need daily transportation. I commute 100 miles round trip to work, but made a deal with a co-worker to get a ride to work. By using a timetable, you can plan out when your parts should be in, how long your car will be down, and anticipate what needs to be done next.

Devise a system for keeping track of parts, bolts, nuts, brackets etc. For pieces like the wiring harness, I used twist ties from the produce aisle of the local grocery store because they have a convenient tab to write a purposeful note on. You can also purchase marking tags that have a label attached to a closed loop of string.
Label small brackets, even if you think you’ll know where they are going to go. It will help you remember how the rest of the wiring harness configuration goes together.
For larger parts, or sets of parts that you would like to group together, Ziplock bags work very well. Label them with a permanent marker and seal them tight. I suggest using freezer bags as they are thicker and won’t tear/break as easily. I’ve also heard of other installers using marked plastic/paper cups. This system would work, provided you don’t accidentally knock the cups over. Take your time labeling parts, and rely heavily on the system you devise. I was very glad I did was careful in the labeling process when I went to put everything on, as there was no frustration trying to remember any otherwise forgotten details. You can never label too much.

I suggest cleaning all gasket surfaces with acetone or any other comparable solvent when installing new gaskets. This will allow bonding agent (Example: Honda-bond) and/or gasket material to adhere to the mating surface. Completing a swap only to find out that it runs awful, leaks fluids, or all of the above due to faulty sealing is a very frustrating feeling. Avoid this by taking your time when using or making new gaskets. Use new gaskets whenever possible and use Honda-bond as advised by the Helm’s manual.

While the engine is out, take advantage of things that are easier to do with the engine out or impossible to do without the engine removed. I took this opportunity to detail my engine bay, remove my A/C, and scrub my transmission among other things. Try to schedule this into your swap timetable. I spent a good three or four days just cleaning out the engine bay and cleaning up the motor and transmission. Unbolt brackets as needed to gain access to dirty surfaces, and bolt them back on when finished. Don’t get ahead of yourself in this process, and remember to adhere to your labeling system.

In addition to using a labeling system, having a camera around will help significantly. I take pictures of anything I think I might forget or anything that I feel is significant. This is not only a valuable tool for your memory, but it can serve two other important purposes.
1) The first reason being the most obvious, as a camera is a great way of looking back at the swap for memories’ sake. If you are a car enthusiast, these pictures will most likely have some sentimental value because of all the time and work you put into it.
2) The second and more important reason is that having a pictorial history can add credibility to your swap. Car buyers are generally very weary of the quality of any customization to a car. Pictures add credibility to the swap. If I ever plan on selling my car, I would be able to burn my digital pictures onto a CD and give the pictures to the next owner. He/she could see what I did, how I did it, what parts I used, etc. Provided you take the time and money to do the swap the right way (Example: Replacing parts with OEM), this will most likely help your vehicle retain its value.

Remember to have fun. The reasons I chose to do my own swap were to insure that I knew the quality of work and so that I could learn about my car.

Differences and modifications necessary between B16A and B17A1

-Oil pressure switch-
Tools:
-14mm Allen wrench socket
-22mm deep socket
-34mm axle socket (deep socket)
-Teflon tape
-Honda-bond or gasket sealer
*Note – The 34mm socket can be borrowed from Autozone.
Description: On the back of the B16A block, located slightly to the left of the oil filter, JDM motors use a large set screw plug (takes a 14mm Allen wrench). The B17A1 places an oil pressure sensor there, which utilizes a green plug and needs to plug into the wiring harness. This sensor requires a 34mm deep socket, and a 22mm deep socket for removal and installation.
Plug Removal: To remove the B16A plug, it will require the use of a 14mm Allen wrench socket. I bought mine at Autozone in a pack that included a 12mm, 14mm, and 17mm and took it back after use to save money. I highly suggest using a socket and not the 90° solid steel type because otherwise you may have to remove other pieces off of the engine to be able to get enough leverage to break the plug loose. Insert the 14mm Allen socket and break the plug loose. Thread this into your old engine or place it in a labeled bag to keep from losing it when removed.
Sensor Removal: To remove the B17A1 sensor and sensor plug, it requires a 34mm axle socket (deep socket), and a 22mm deep socket. Use the 22mm deep socket to remove the sensor itself. Make sure not to lose the sensor washer, clean the washer and sensor, and place them in a labeled bag. Clean any excess Honda-bond away from the 34mm sensor plug’s outer hexagonal shape. Use the 34mm socket to remove the sensor plug. Take care not to strip the outer hexagonal shape, as the 34mm socket may not want to line up square due to an adjacent oil sensor’s interference directly right of the 34mm sensor plug. If the 34mm plug starts to round, I would suggest possibly removing the other sensor to insure you have room to line up square to the 34mm sensor plug, to prevent stripping it. Take care not to lose the sensor plug washer, clean them both up, and place them in the same labeled bag as the sensor.
Sensor Installation: I highly suggest using Teflon tape on the threads before installation to avoid oil leakage in the future. The factory would probably recommend replacing the sensor plug crush washer to insure correct sealing (I’m not sure if this is readily available from Honda), or you could simply use some Honda-bond on the washer to help seal it. The B17A1 had Honda-bond on the threads and washer when I removed it. Also, I do not know the torque spec on the plug or sensor, so all of these things are up to the installer’s discretion. Install the sensor plug first, then the sensor.

-Distributor connector (wiring harness)
Tools:
-Needle nose pliers
-Possibly a lubricant safe for electrical connection (Example: dielectric grease)
Description: An odd difference between the B17A1 distributor and B16A distributor is an incompatibility in connecting the B17A1 wiring harness to the distributor connector. Looking at the white piece within the plug connector from the B16A side-by-side with the B17A1 connector you can see that the B16A uses slightly more white plastic material around the outside perimeter (butting up against the gray surface of the inside of the connector). This slight addition of material will keep the B17A1 harness from even latching in the B16A connector at all.
Fix: Place the B16A distributor connector in your one hand and use the pliers in the other hand. Using the pliers, lightly clamp down on one of the white tabs that stick up between the metal connector prongs. Gently rock this back and forth to help the white plastic separate from the gray connector. Gently pull the two apart while rocking the white plastic piece, until they release, free of each other. If you have trouble separating them, just be gentle and patient, and possibly apply some lubricant (Make sure it is safe for electrical connections.) between the two surfaces to aid removal. Use the same process for the B17A1 distributor connector and replace the B16A’s white plastic insert with the B17A1’s. The two ends of the connection should now plug into each other.

TPS Sensor
Tools:
Torx Driver
Dremel with cut off wheel
Electric Drill with 3/8” drill bit
Gasket material, gasket maker, or Honda-bond
Description: Regardless of any Honda B-series swap you looked into, a common problem is damage to the TPS sensor in shipping. The company I purchased from removes the TPS sensor all together. Honda does not sell the TPS sensors separate from the throttle body at all so that will limit your choices, but you do have a few options. These are listed in order of increasing cost.
1) Drill out the rivets from the B17A1 and swap only the TPS to the B16A. Honda does not offer a gasket for the TPS separate from the throttlebody so you will have to fabricate your own to prevent water from entering into the sensor. The disadvantage of this is possibly ruining the B17A1 throttlebody. This is the lowest cost option, provided you have the right tools readily available.
2) Swap the throttlebody from your B17A1 to the B16A. This will require only a new throttlebody gasket, and the advantage to this is that you keep both throttlebodies intact without possibly damaging either. This is also a low cost option.
3) Purchase an entire throttlebody assembly. This would be great time to upgrade to a larger bore/butterfly throttlebody, but keep in mind that to realize the true performance gains, the intake manifold must be match ported. You must also purchase a new throttlebody gasket.
Removal: I chose the first option; to drill out the B17A1 TPS and install it onto the B16A throttlebody. I started by using the 3/8” drill bit to drill out the B17A1 TPS rivets. You may want to center punch the center of the rivet to insure that the drill starts out square and on center to the rivet. Drill down until you think you’ve reached the surface of the throttlebody, or slightly above it to avoid any damage to the B17A1 throttlebody. At this point I lightly tugged on the TPS sensor to see if had broken free. If it hasn’t then I suggest finishing the job by using a Dremel with a cut off wheel. Slowly cut the washers (the ones held on by the rivets) in half, and be careful not to cut into the TPS. Be careful when removing the sensor as it has a spring and button configuration that will easily separate upon removal from the throttlebody. Not only are these pieces fragile, but they are easy to lose, and easy to reassemble wrong. The TPS sensor should now release from the throttlebody, but if it doesn’t, you may want to take a knife and cut at the gasket surface to see if you can peel the TPS from the throttlebody surface. Lightly pull on the TPS and it should release, being very careful not to lose any of the TPS pieces and/or disassembling it in the process.
Installation: Scrape away any existing gasket material off of the B16A throttlebody and wipe down the surface. You have two options at this point. Either cut out a new gasket from gasket material, or lightly spread a thin layer of Honda-bond (or similar gasket bonding material) around the entire area. If the TPS internals are trying to fall apart as you are assembling the pieces, use a small screwdriver to hold them together. Then when everything is nearly together, remove the screwdriver, being careful not to rip/remove the gasket material. Hold the TPS tightly to the throttlebody and thread in the Torx screws.
Note: You may want to wait to reinstall a sealing material (gasket or gasket maker) if your TPS internal components came apart during the removal/installation process. This way, when the engine is ready to run, you can have easy access to the TPS, if by chance the engine doesn’t run well and you suspect this sensor as the culprit.

Intake Manifold Vacuum Lines
Tools:
Pliers
Small flat end screwdriver
Small towel or rag
Soap
Utility knife
3mm vacuum hose
*Note: GM windshield wiper hose works for this application, and is available in bulk from Autozone.
Description: The B16A and B17A1 vacuum routing have some significant differences from each other. First off, the B16A doesn’t use a dashpot, but the B17A1 does. The B17A uses hard metal “runner” lines on the top/back of the plenum to connect vacuum hoses. The B16A uses soft lines with clips to hold most of them in place on the top/back of the plenum. The B17A has two fittings on the rear/halfway up/driver’s side of the plenum that are integral to the fuel pressure regulator vacuum. The B16A does not, and will require a T-fitting to connect all of the necessary lines.

Combustion Contraption

this will be a great read once its finished

mojoGSR92

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LsVtec92Hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this will be a great read once its finished </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks, unfortunately I don't know if I'll ever finish. I did the engine swap over two years ago, and am finishing up a transmission, flywheel, and clutch swap right now.

I was just kind of putting it up as a swap how to guide for anyone thinking about undertaking an engine swap. Any other feedback is welcome... as if I get the free time I may actually finish it with pictures.

ueno.

awesome thread and guide .... lookin foward to reading the finished version gave me a lot of info tips and ideas on what to look for and expect when i do my swap in these following months...