1994 Civic with H22A2 swap problems, P28 ECU HELP !!!
11-21-2013, 05:41 AM
#1
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1994 Civic with H22A2 swap problems, P28 ECU HELP !!!
Hi guys,
I have a 1994 Honda Civic with an H22a2 that was installed. I bought the car running with no error codes and working. A week later it broke the timing belt and I let the car sit for about 1 year.
I started working on the car a few weeks back, got a used head which I had serviced with new supertech flat head valves & springs, ported and polished runners an the rest is stock. I also got the butterflies on the intake manifold removed and some small polishing as well as opening the Thorttle Body to hold a 70mm one. I am using the stock thorttle body for now. I have nothing else done to the engine.
I started the car up 2 days ago and I ran into issues with the codes 10, 14, 20, 36. I have checked the IACV (code 14) and it seems to be working but still the engine acts as you can see on the video (as if there is a vacuum leak).
The car has no traction control but still do I get the code for it. I have a P28 ECU installed in my car and have not been able to get a reliable pin diagram to check all sensors and where they plug into the ECU. Still, the car was running before so why not now?
For code 20 I have checked and could not find the ELD but the alternator at around 2000rpm is charging 14,36V which I think is to high, could this be the reason for the code?
I have checked the harness and it seems to be plugged in correctly in all sensors. EGT is not used on my car.
Video:
I have a 1994 Honda Civic with an H22a2 that was installed. I bought the car running with no error codes and working. A week later it broke the timing belt and I let the car sit for about 1 year.
I started working on the car a few weeks back, got a used head which I had serviced with new supertech flat head valves & springs, ported and polished runners an the rest is stock. I also got the butterflies on the intake manifold removed and some small polishing as well as opening the Thorttle Body to hold a 70mm one. I am using the stock thorttle body for now. I have nothing else done to the engine.
I started the car up 2 days ago and I ran into issues with the codes 10, 14, 20, 36. I have checked the IACV (code 14) and it seems to be working but still the engine acts as you can see on the video (as if there is a vacuum leak).
The car has no traction control but still do I get the code for it. I have a P28 ECU installed in my car and have not been able to get a reliable pin diagram to check all sensors and where they plug into the ECU. Still, the car was running before so why not now?
For code 20 I have checked and could not find the ELD but the alternator at around 2000rpm is charging 14,36V which I think is to high, could this be the reason for the code?
I have checked the harness and it seems to be plugged in correctly in all sensors. EGT is not used on my car.
Video:
11-21-2013, 06:42 AM
#2
Re: 1994 Civic with H22A2 swap problems, P28 ECU HELP !!!
Hope this helps. I can't even find CEL 36. Definitely check the vacuum lines for leaks.
These are the pin designations for the OBD1 ECU as well as their wire color and voltage. I always have a hard time finding this information when I need it as I'm sure others do, so here it is
KEY:
(voltage values measured in DC Volts unless otherwise specified)
V = Volts
Wht = White
Blk = Black
Grn = Green
Yel = Yellow
Brn = Brown
Blu = Blue
Org = Orange
KOEO = Key On Engine Off
KOER = Key On Engine Running
A, B, D= Slot. Numbers are read up and down from left to right, not straight across (see diagram at end).
A1-INJ1 INJECTOR#1 Brown, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A2-INJ4 INJECTOR#4 Yellow, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A3-INJ2 INJECTOR#2 Red, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A4-VTS VTEC solenoid GRN/YEL, n/a
A5-INJ3 INJECTOR#3 Blue, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A6-PO2SHTC O2 sensor heating element Org/Wht, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A7-FLR1 fuel pump Grn/BLK, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A8-empty A7 and A8 have the same circurt, so they can be the same
A9-IACV IAC valve Blk/Blu, About 10v KOEO on Warm engine
A10-empty
A11-EGR Control Solenoid Valve (if the ECU has it) Red, n/a
A12-FANC engine coolant temp switch Blu/red, n/a
A13-MIL MIL (check engine light) Blu/wht, n/a
A14-empty
A15-ACC (a/c compressor clutch) Red/Blu, n/a
A16-ALT C alternator Wht/Grn, n/a
A17-IAB IAB Solenoid Pink, n/a
A18-Org/Red, Transmission Control Module (A/T), n/a
A19-White, Intake control solenoid, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A20-PCS EVAP purge control solenoid Red/Grn, n/a
A21-ICM Yel/Grn, Ignition Control Module output signal, About 10V KOEO
A22-Igniter, same as A21
A23-PG1 ground Black, Power ground, less than 1V
A24-PG2 ground same as A23
A25-IGP2 to main relay and to ground Yel/blk, Battery positive from Main relay, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A26-LG1 gound Blk/red, less than 1V
B1-IGP2 to pin A25 Yel/Blk, Battery positive from Main relay, Battery Voltage with KOEO
B2-LG2 ground to shields for CYP & TDC Brown/Blk, <1V
B3-Orange, upshift/downshift comparative input, n/a
B4-Pink, upshift/downshift comparative input, n/a
B5-ACS a/c switch Blu/Blk, a/c input, ~5V with KOEO & A/C off; <1V KOER with A/C & blower on
B6-empty
B7-Light green, Park/Neutral switch (A/T), <1V in Park or Neutral with KOEO; 5V in Park or neutral with KOER; Battery voltage in all other positions
B8-PSPSW PSP switch Red/Green, Power steering oil pressure switch, 0V KOEO; Battery Voltage KOER While slowly turning steering wheel
B9-STARTER SIGNAL starter signal Blue/red, Battery Voltage in the START position (clutch depressed on M/T models)
B10-VSS vehicle speed sensor Orange, Pulses 0-12V while turning the left front wheel
B11-CYP P CYP(#1 piston position) -P Orange, CYP sensor input, n/a
B12-CYP M CYP -M White, CYP sensor signal, n/a
B13-TDC P TDC(top dead ceter) -P Org/Blue, TDC sensor input, n/a
B14-TDC M TDC -M Wht/Blue, TDC sensor signal, n/a
B15-CKP P CKP(crank position) -P Blu/Green, CKP Sensor input, n/a
B16-CKP M CKP -M Blu/yel, CKP Sensor signal, n/a
D1-VBU Back Up Power Wht/Yel, Battery positive From battery through Fuse Box, Battery Voltage at ALL times
D2-BKSW brake switch Grn/wht, Battery voltage at all times
D3-KS Knock Sensor Red/Blue, n/a
D4-SCS service check connector Brown/Wht, ~5V (M/T); ~11V (A/T)
D5-empty
D6-VTM VTEC pressure switch Light Blue, n/a
D7-TXD/RXD (data link connector) Light Green/Red, n/a
D8-empty
D9-ALT F alternator Wht/Red, Alternator Charging Signal, ~4.5V KOEO; Decreases under Electrical load (Headlights & rear defogger on) At warm idle
D10-ELD electric load detector input Grn/Blk, n/a
D11-TPS (throttle position sensor) Signal Red/Blk, ~0.5V KOEO with throttle fully closed; ~4.5V KOEO with throttle fully open
D12-Wht/Blk, EGR Valve Lift sensor, ~1.2V KOEO
D13-ECT (engine coolant temp) sensor input Yel/Blu, ~5V KOEO (varies with temperature)
D14-PHO2S O2 sensor White, heated 02 sensor Signal, 0.4-0.5V when ignition is turned on; drops to less than 0.1V within 2 minutes
D15-IAT Intake Air Temperature sensor signal Red/Yel, .05-4.5V KOEO(Varies with temperature)
D16-VREF (no info)
D17-MAP Map Signal Wht/Blu, ~3V KOEO (Varies with Temperature)
D18-Light Green/Blk, Transmission Control Module (A/T Only), n/a
D19-Red/Wht, Reference Voltage, ~5V KOEO
D20-Yel/Wht, Reference Voltage, ~5V KOEO
D21-Blue/Wht, Sensor ground, <1V
D22-Green/Wht, Sensor ground, <1V
KEY:
(voltage values measured in DC Volts unless otherwise specified)
V = Volts
Wht = White
Blk = Black
Grn = Green
Yel = Yellow
Brn = Brown
Blu = Blue
Org = Orange
KOEO = Key On Engine Off
KOER = Key On Engine Running
A, B, D= Slot. Numbers are read up and down from left to right, not straight across (see diagram at end).
A1-INJ1 INJECTOR#1 Brown, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A2-INJ4 INJECTOR#4 Yellow, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A3-INJ2 INJECTOR#2 Red, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A4-VTS VTEC solenoid GRN/YEL, n/a
A5-INJ3 INJECTOR#3 Blue, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A6-PO2SHTC O2 sensor heating element Org/Wht, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A7-FLR1 fuel pump Grn/BLK, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A8-empty A7 and A8 have the same circurt, so they can be the same
A9-IACV IAC valve Blk/Blu, About 10v KOEO on Warm engine
A10-empty
A11-EGR Control Solenoid Valve (if the ECU has it) Red, n/a
A12-FANC engine coolant temp switch Blu/red, n/a
A13-MIL MIL (check engine light) Blu/wht, n/a
A14-empty
A15-ACC (a/c compressor clutch) Red/Blu, n/a
A16-ALT C alternator Wht/Grn, n/a
A17-IAB IAB Solenoid Pink, n/a
A18-Org/Red, Transmission Control Module (A/T), n/a
A19-White, Intake control solenoid, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A20-PCS EVAP purge control solenoid Red/Grn, n/a
A21-ICM Yel/Grn, Ignition Control Module output signal, About 10V KOEO
A22-Igniter, same as A21
A23-PG1 ground Black, Power ground, less than 1V
A24-PG2 ground same as A23
A25-IGP2 to main relay and to ground Yel/blk, Battery positive from Main relay, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A26-LG1 gound Blk/red, less than 1V
B1-IGP2 to pin A25 Yel/Blk, Battery positive from Main relay, Battery Voltage with KOEO
B2-LG2 ground to shields for CYP & TDC Brown/Blk, <1V
B3-Orange, upshift/downshift comparative input, n/a
B4-Pink, upshift/downshift comparative input, n/a
B5-ACS a/c switch Blu/Blk, a/c input, ~5V with KOEO & A/C off; <1V KOER with A/C & blower on
B6-empty
B7-Light green, Park/Neutral switch (A/T), <1V in Park or Neutral with KOEO; 5V in Park or neutral with KOER; Battery voltage in all other positions
B8-PSPSW PSP switch Red/Green, Power steering oil pressure switch, 0V KOEO; Battery Voltage KOER While slowly turning steering wheel
B9-STARTER SIGNAL starter signal Blue/red, Battery Voltage in the START position (clutch depressed on M/T models)
B10-VSS vehicle speed sensor Orange, Pulses 0-12V while turning the left front wheel
B11-CYP P CYP(#1 piston position) -P Orange, CYP sensor input, n/a
B12-CYP M CYP -M White, CYP sensor signal, n/a
B13-TDC P TDC(top dead ceter) -P Org/Blue, TDC sensor input, n/a
B14-TDC M TDC -M Wht/Blue, TDC sensor signal, n/a
B15-CKP P CKP(crank position) -P Blu/Green, CKP Sensor input, n/a
B16-CKP M CKP -M Blu/yel, CKP Sensor signal, n/a
D1-VBU Back Up Power Wht/Yel, Battery positive From battery through Fuse Box, Battery Voltage at ALL times
D2-BKSW brake switch Grn/wht, Battery voltage at all times
D3-KS Knock Sensor Red/Blue, n/a
D4-SCS service check connector Brown/Wht, ~5V (M/T); ~11V (A/T)
D5-empty
D6-VTM VTEC pressure switch Light Blue, n/a
D7-TXD/RXD (data link connector) Light Green/Red, n/a
D8-empty
D9-ALT F alternator Wht/Red, Alternator Charging Signal, ~4.5V KOEO; Decreases under Electrical load (Headlights & rear defogger on) At warm idle
D10-ELD electric load detector input Grn/Blk, n/a
D11-TPS (throttle position sensor) Signal Red/Blk, ~0.5V KOEO with throttle fully closed; ~4.5V KOEO with throttle fully open
D12-Wht/Blk, EGR Valve Lift sensor, ~1.2V KOEO
D13-ECT (engine coolant temp) sensor input Yel/Blu, ~5V KOEO (varies with temperature)
D14-PHO2S O2 sensor White, heated 02 sensor Signal, 0.4-0.5V when ignition is turned on; drops to less than 0.1V within 2 minutes
D15-IAT Intake Air Temperature sensor signal Red/Yel, .05-4.5V KOEO(Varies with temperature)
D16-VREF (no info)
D17-MAP Map Signal Wht/Blu, ~3V KOEO (Varies with Temperature)
D18-Light Green/Blk, Transmission Control Module (A/T Only), n/a
D19-Red/Wht, Reference Voltage, ~5V KOEO
D20-Yel/Wht, Reference Voltage, ~5V KOEO
D21-Blue/Wht, Sensor ground, <1V
D22-Green/Wht, Sensor ground, <1V
CEL Code
Problem
Cause
1
Oxygen Sensor "A" (Primary)
bad wiring or unplugged / bad sensor
2
Oxygen Sensor "B"
bad wiring or unplugged / bad sensor
3
MAP Sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure)
bad wiring or unplugged / bad sensor / boost
4
CKP Sensor (Crankshaft Position Sensor)
bad wiring or unplugged / bad sensor
5
MAP Sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure)
mechanical problem / disconnected piping
6
ECT Sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature)
bad wiring or unplugged / bad sensor / low fluid
7
TP Sensor (Throttle Position) (TPS)
bad wiring or unplugged / bad sensor
8
TDC Sensor (Top Dead Center)
bad wiring or unplugged / bad sensor
9
CYP Sensor (Cylinder)
bad wiring or unplugged / bad sensor
10
IAT Sensor (Intake Air Temperature)
bad wiring or unplugged / bad sensor
12
EGR Lift Sensor (Exhaust Gas Recirculation)
bad wiring or unplugged / bad sensor
13
BARO Sensor (Atmospheric Pressure)
bad wiring or unplugged / bad sensor
14
IAC Valve (Idle Air Control)
bad wiring or unplugged / bad sensor
15
Ignition Output Signal
missing or defective ignition output signal
16
Fuel Injector System
bad wiring or unplugged / defective fuel injector
17
VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor)
bad wiring or unplugged / bad sensor
19
Automatic Transmission Lock Up Control Solenoid Valve
bad wiring or unplugged / bad sensor
20
Electrical Load Detector
bad wiring or unplugged / bad sensor
21
VTEC Solenoid Valve
bad wiring or unplugged / defective solenoid valve
22
VTEC Oil Pressure Switch
bad wiring or unplugged / defective oil pressure switch
23
KS (Knock Sensor)
bad wiring or unplugged / bad sensor
30
Automatic Transmission Signal "A" / SEAF / SEFA / TMA / TMB
bad wiring or unplugged / bad sensor
31
Automatic Transmission Signal "B"
bad wiring or unplugged / bad sensor
41
Primary Oxygen Sensor - Heater
circuit malfunction
43
Fuel Supply System
defective or malfunctioning fuel supply system
45
System Too Lean or Too Rich
malfunction in the fuel monitoring systems
Problem
Cause
1
Oxygen Sensor "A" (Primary)
bad wiring or unplugged / bad sensor
2
Oxygen Sensor "B"
bad wiring or unplugged / bad sensor
3
MAP Sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure)
bad wiring or unplugged / bad sensor / boost
4
CKP Sensor (Crankshaft Position Sensor)
bad wiring or unplugged / bad sensor
5
MAP Sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure)
mechanical problem / disconnected piping
6
ECT Sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature)
bad wiring or unplugged / bad sensor / low fluid
7
TP Sensor (Throttle Position) (TPS)
bad wiring or unplugged / bad sensor
8
TDC Sensor (Top Dead Center)
bad wiring or unplugged / bad sensor
9
CYP Sensor (Cylinder)
bad wiring or unplugged / bad sensor
10
IAT Sensor (Intake Air Temperature)
bad wiring or unplugged / bad sensor
12
EGR Lift Sensor (Exhaust Gas Recirculation)
bad wiring or unplugged / bad sensor
13
BARO Sensor (Atmospheric Pressure)
bad wiring or unplugged / bad sensor
14
IAC Valve (Idle Air Control)
bad wiring or unplugged / bad sensor
15
Ignition Output Signal
missing or defective ignition output signal
16
Fuel Injector System
bad wiring or unplugged / defective fuel injector
17
VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor)
bad wiring or unplugged / bad sensor
19
Automatic Transmission Lock Up Control Solenoid Valve
bad wiring or unplugged / bad sensor
20
Electrical Load Detector
bad wiring or unplugged / bad sensor
21
VTEC Solenoid Valve
bad wiring or unplugged / defective solenoid valve
22
VTEC Oil Pressure Switch
bad wiring or unplugged / defective oil pressure switch
23
KS (Knock Sensor)
bad wiring or unplugged / bad sensor
30
Automatic Transmission Signal "A" / SEAF / SEFA / TMA / TMB
bad wiring or unplugged / bad sensor
31
Automatic Transmission Signal "B"
bad wiring or unplugged / bad sensor
41
Primary Oxygen Sensor - Heater
circuit malfunction
43
Fuel Supply System
defective or malfunctioning fuel supply system
45
System Too Lean or Too Rich
malfunction in the fuel monitoring systems
11-21-2013, 07:36 AM
#3
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Re: 1994 Civic with H22A2 swap problems, P28 ECU HELP !!!
Thanks for the response. I forgot to mention I am in Europe and all of this is Euro Spec stuff.
http://www.askmehelpdesk.com/cars-tr...das-18139.html
Any other help is highly appreciated.
Korsou
11-21-2013, 08:16 AM
#4
Honda-Tech Member
Re: 1994 Civic with H22A2 swap problems, P28 ECU HELP !!!
The surging idle sound like a bad or dirty IACV. Try to clean it or test a good one from a friend.
For the ELD enter in the program and disable it.
For vacuum leaks spray carb cleaner in the vacuum hoses. Put your hand on the throttle to know if the car die immediately.
from the photos look like the IACV and IAT have the correct wires but double check it. At first I think they where switched.
IACV= blue/Yel + Yel/BLK
IAT= Red/Yel + Grn/WHt
For the ELD enter in the program and disable it.
For vacuum leaks spray carb cleaner in the vacuum hoses. Put your hand on the throttle to know if the car die immediately.
from the photos look like the IACV and IAT have the correct wires but double check it. At first I think they where switched.
IACV= blue/Yel + Yel/BLK
IAT= Red/Yel + Grn/WHt
11-09-2015, 11:55 AM
#5
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Re: 1994 Civic with H22A2 swap problems, P28 ECU HELP !!!
Hi guys,
I have a 1994 Honda Civic with an H22a2 that was installed. I bought the car running with no error codes and working. A week later it broke the timing belt and I let the car sit for about 1 year.
I started working on the car a few weeks back, got a used head which I had serviced with new supertech flat head valves & springs, ported and polished runners an the rest is stock. I also got the butterflies on the intake manifold removed and some small polishing as well as opening the Thorttle Body to hold a 70mm one. I am using the stock thorttle body for now. I have nothing else done to the engine.
I started the car up 2 days ago and I ran into issues with the codes 10, 14, 20, 36. I have checked the IACV (code 14) and it seems to be working but still the engine acts as you can see on the video (as if there is a vacuum leak).
The car has no traction control but still do I get the code for it. I have a P28 ECU installed in my car and have not been able to get a reliable pin diagram to check all sensors and where they plug into the ECU. Still, the car was running before so why not now?
For code 20 I have checked and could not find the ELD but the alternator at around 2000rpm is charging 14,36V which I think is to high, could this be the reason for the code?
I have checked the harness and it seems to be plugged in correctly in all sensors. EGT is not used on my car.
Video: http://youtu.be/BZE_FR3W_Cs
I have a 1994 Honda Civic with an H22a2 that was installed. I bought the car running with no error codes and working. A week later it broke the timing belt and I let the car sit for about 1 year.
I started working on the car a few weeks back, got a used head which I had serviced with new supertech flat head valves & springs, ported and polished runners an the rest is stock. I also got the butterflies on the intake manifold removed and some small polishing as well as opening the Thorttle Body to hold a 70mm one. I am using the stock thorttle body for now. I have nothing else done to the engine.
I started the car up 2 days ago and I ran into issues with the codes 10, 14, 20, 36. I have checked the IACV (code 14) and it seems to be working but still the engine acts as you can see on the video (as if there is a vacuum leak).
The car has no traction control but still do I get the code for it. I have a P28 ECU installed in my car and have not been able to get a reliable pin diagram to check all sensors and where they plug into the ECU. Still, the car was running before so why not now?
For code 20 I have checked and could not find the ELD but the alternator at around 2000rpm is charging 14,36V which I think is to high, could this be the reason for the code?
I have checked the harness and it seems to be plugged in correctly in all sensors. EGT is not used on my car.
Video: http://youtu.be/BZE_FR3W_Cs
11-09-2015, 12:13 PM
#6
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Re: 1994 Civic with H22A2 swap problems, P28 ECU HELP !!!
hi my friend,here is bobobrasil,i hope this will help you a little... if you already fix your problem than
here is something somethintg,i got same problem before few months,my throttle was up and down,on cold crank even more,vibration on engine,weird sounds,knocking,(that is some stuff that i even dont hear on your H22)but that problem what you got,you have even more oscilation when is engine cold???because that is what happen to me..
i change first battery,than ignition switch,than i clean IAC,than i clean EGR,than THROTLE,....than after big time working i got nowhere,so i try to make something on my own hand even i got no any light to check with what i dealing with,so i change TOP DEAD CENTER SENSOR or CRANK SHAFT SENSOR,cable with two sensors on it,till today i have no any problems with H22a2,got same engine like you,ecu is slightly different but if you already change TDC sensor/or/ solve your problem than long live H22a2 yors and mine!!!
here is something somethintg,i got same problem before few months,my throttle was up and down,on cold crank even more,vibration on engine,weird sounds,knocking,(that is some stuff that i even dont hear on your H22)but that problem what you got,you have even more oscilation when is engine cold???because that is what happen to me..
i change first battery,than ignition switch,than i clean IAC,than i clean EGR,than THROTLE,....than after big time working i got nowhere,so i try to make something on my own hand even i got no any light to check with what i dealing with,so i change TOP DEAD CENTER SENSOR or CRANK SHAFT SENSOR,cable with two sensors on it,till today i have no any problems with H22a2,got same engine like you,ecu is slightly different but if you already change TDC sensor/or/ solve your problem than long live H22a2 yors and mine!!!
11-09-2015, 12:18 PM
#7
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Re: 1994 Civic with H22A2 swap problems, P28 ECU HELP !!!
and what i forgot mentioned,mine car is also got jumping on the road every time when i was on 3000rpm,when i drive below everithing ok...so like i said TDC sensor,if you already try to clean EGR,IAC and all eco things...this and ignition switch is common problem on H22a2,this is my second engine a2 and is very sync,very strong,and relaible but some glitches offcourse got...cheers
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