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Ok so I got everything in the car ready to start (I assume). Connect the battery and what sounds like a blinker keeps clicking for like 30 seconds then stops for a little bit then starts again. Brake lights a flashing all the dash lights are flashing. And the car won't even crank. Not even a click when the key is turned. Replaced the starter. That wasn't it. I don't think it's any of the grounds or connections. But I do think it has something to do with the alarm, or fuses mixed and matched. I have no idea but it's weird. I've swaped 2 civics now and have never seen this problem. PLEASE SOMEONE ******* HELP ME. Hahaha sorry for the language. Keep in mind when the key is out o the ignition completely it still does these things. It's almost kinda creepy haha. No alarm sounding off just the lights and the clickers. The keys are OUT of the ignition and the lights continue. That's what makes me think it's an alarm issue. I have no idea but I'll post a video or something I don't know. If anyone knows anything email me. I need help ASAP!!
The alarm is a falcon predator. I have no idea how to mess with this thing. I don't wanna just start ripping thing apart. If someone could help me or tell me if its possible to remove the system all together and get a new one
The alarm is a falcon predator. I have no idea how to mess with this thing. I don't wanna just start ripping thing apart. If someone could help me or tell me if its possible to remove the system all together and get a new one
Ok alarm is out, everything is soldered and heat shrunk. But I got to start it still nothing. Not even a click. I redid all the fuses because whoever did that before seriously messed it up.
I checked all grounds I'm about to "bypass the starter" the starter my friend called it but I think he meant hard wire it to get it to crank. Because I want to prime oil in the motor befor starting it .
Hazards do. I don't have a horn. And I don't have bulbs for my headlights yet. All the electricals work now. But it's just not cranky over not even a click. I don't know help haha
you said you redid the fuses. does that mean you replaced them all or just checked them? also is the car a stick or auto? if auto is it converted to manual? i would make sure the starter relay is working first.
Checked them/ put them in their rightful place. It's a stick but to fit the shifter i had to cut out and fiberglass the bottom of the shell. And if the fuel pump primes doesn't that mean atleast one of the relays are working? I tested the starter for up to 12 volts when the keys in the on position. It's good. And where would the starter relay be located? To test it.
Ps I also got it turn over. But not by the ignition I stuck a screwdriver on the starter and tried to hard start it.. I primed the oil, then plugged the spark plugs. Tried it again. Nothing.. I'm stumped
Thank you! I'll check the starter relay in the morning. Do I need to have the key in the start position while testing the plug? And I remove the relay the test correct? I'm just making sure so I don't get wrong reading. I want to be 100%
Fuel pump primes. Everything work except this bitch doesn't want to start. Not even crank over.. I dunno the **** is going in man. Could be the cut relay. .???
My god.. This **** is annoying as hell.
Last edited by Former User; 08-05-2015 at 06:19 AM.
I tested the starter for up to 12 volts when the keys in the on position. It's good.
Your thread will make faster progress if you provide more specific details about the tests you've done. For example, the starter has two power wires - motor and solenoid. Which one has 12V?
I also got it turn over. But not by the ignition I stuck a screwdriver on the starter and tried to hard start it.
Also describe exactly how you did this^ screwdriver test.
Ok I'm pretty sure this is my problem hah. Thanks ronJ. I don't have both of the rubber grommets that go on the clutch pedal. Could that cause the no start??
If a missing rubber stopper is the only problem, then the starter motor terminal will have battery voltage whereas the starter solenoid will have 0V with the key in ON(III). If so, then jumping the clutch pedal switch would restore cranking with the ignition key.
Speed up the diagnostics by doing the proper voltage tests at the two starter terminals.
Ok so. I rigged it. I know it's against HT policy but I straight jerry rigged it haha for clutch switch B I used a bolt and nut for A I use zip ties. Don't ask it took a very long time.. So I check the trigger wire and the for voltage and the big bolt right in the center of the starter? While the keys are in on position.. Not start position .
Ok got a battery. Did the clutch switches it turns over. No start there's fuel. Compression. But I don't think there's any spark.. My harness is a dual plug on the dizzy I think it's OBD 1. have another dizzy with just a single plug. And it's an 8 pin. The dual plug is 7/2 I believe. I don't know whats up, any help?
check you have voltage at the blk/yel wire on the 2 pin connector. (BTW 2 connector 7/2 is obd1. 1 connector should be 10 pin is obd2. same wires same signals just different connector.)
schematic for the hell of it:
Ok so I have this dizzy right there that I'm gonna use. Single plug 8 pin. I ordered the Obd1 to OBD2 dizzy jumper so it's 7/2 for my harness the an 8 pin connector for this dizzy
This is my harness connector 7/2 pin. And the dizzy I had on there was a 8/2 pin. The dizzy shown before is what I got the connector for. Do you think this could be why it's not turning over?.?
See the 8 pin connector. The the 7/2 pin.. I hoping this solves my problem. It's the most simple problem I could think of. Simplicity is always the key.
08-02-2015, 09:20 PM
1993 Civic EG h23a swap electrical issues
