Graham Dunbar

Do I need a b series throttle cable and bracket? ive heard you do, heard you don't. itr into obd2b civic ej6, thanks

Katman

it would be best to get a USDM ITR t/b cable and ITR t/b cable bracket (if your ITR manifold doesn't have the bracket already).

The ITR cable is the proper length and is basically plug n play when used in conjunction with the ITR tb cable bracket on an ITR manifold. Any other cable used and you'll have to fuss around with fitment and customize the tb cable bracket.

Graham Dunbar

Thanks!

Graham Dunbar

Or could I use something like this http://www.innovativemounts.com/Prod...ductCode=59510 and keep my d series cable? I think it would be hard to find/expensive an itr throttle cable in my area

Katman

Not sure if that tb bracket's offset is compatible with 92-00 civic throttle cable use. It looks like that one is specifically for 88-91 civic/crx use if I'm not mistaken.

you can buy a brand new ITR tb cable and bracket online, such as here:
(cable #11) http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...s=&view=normal
(bracket #6)
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...s=&view=normal

Graham Dunbar

Thanks, yeah the manifold already has the bracket, didn't know the cable would be so cheap

Katman

you'd be surprised what you can find price wise with some simple googling

Graham Dunbar

That being said, would an ls cable work? there is an integra ls at a wreckers near me I have access too, and would save the time of ordering parts. It seems like the itr and ls manifold are similar as long as I have the right bracket?

Katman

What year is this LS integra? if its 94-01 then I believe you'll be ok iirc

Here's some caveats of using B18A (90-93) and B18B (94-01) LS tcable & bracket on an ITR manifold:

1) the B18B LS tcable bracket gets in the way of the IAT sensor location on an ITR manifold (see manifold comparison image below); but you can trim or bend the bracket to give some clearance to the IAT sensor and its plug iirc. This is why the ITR tcable bracket is better to use.



2) Now, I'm not 100% sure if this is an LS tcable bracket in the photo below (might be a 92-01 B16A bracket), but if it is, it will provide better IAT clearance than the B18B bracket, but its kinda ghetto rigged because of the wider bracket's bolt hole spacing, which doesnt match the narrower manifold-side bracket hole spacing:

This B18A has an ITR style manifold (probably 1st gen blox or skunk manifold). Notice how the bracket is being held in place by ONE 10mm bolt, but can still be a workaround nonetheless.

Graham Dunbar

k thanks katman! im gonna give the ls cable/itr bracket a try and if not its pretty cheap haha

Katman

chrisc543

Ok. so I am going to be ordering 96-98 Civic EX harness (ill need to wire in second o2? is that it?) OBD2 alternator, and OBD2 distributor.

For the injectors could I run 440cc? some are for sale on local craigslist.

Thanks

Katman

you probably will not have to wire in the 2nd 02 being that this wiring is part of the EX cabin harness already. Your 2nd 02 wiring is located near the hand brake area (peeled back the carpeting & remove center console to access) and feeds down to the exhaust tunnel from there.

yes getting an OBD2 b-series alternator and OBD2 b-series VTEC distributor would be choice. Alternatively, if you have these items in OBD1 format, you can buy an OBD1-OBD2 dizzy jumper and alternator jumper (rywire makes these). Might save you a few bucks running the adapter harnesses vs. outright buying OBD2 diz & alt.

Injector wise, you'll need to have the ecu reprogrammed to take full advantage of the 440cc injectors as the stock programming (depending on what ecu you're going to run) is most likely programmed for factory 240cc injectors. If your motor is internally stock, there's nothing wrong with stock injectors at all. And btw, you'd want OBD2 B-series or (D-series SOHC VTEC..both are 240cc) injectors as well if you want them to be plug n play to your EX harness.

chrisc543

I've now seen another car that had obd1 on an obd2 car and engine. Wonder what the benefit is.

I'm getting a cylinder fluctuation code and knock code. Maybe I'm just better off replacing the obd1 dizzy. If I do is the b16 and b18 same? Someone local had one for sale.

Not sure what to do but doing the hundred to make obd2 again and might not fix problem seems risky.

Thanks

Katman

1) There's zero benefit of an OBD1 engine swap into an OBD2 chassis if the goal is to pass emissions testing (depending on the state).

2) There's zero benefit if you plan to ultimately retain the use of a US OBD2 ecu. This is the core hassle actually, to please the OBD2 ecu programming when using an OBD1 engine which lacks mainly the CKF sensor & 2nd 02. Though the 2nd 02 isn't as a big deal as the missing CKF sensor is.

What makes it an even bigger hassle is if you don't have the OBD2 components that plug n play to an OBD2 engine harness (especially for EK civics). You either have to rewire plugs manually yourself (if you're capable), or go OBD2-1 dizzy and alt adapters.

The only real perk of an OBD1 swap into an OBD2 chassis is if you're planning to convert to OBD1 ecu too. OBD1 programming is way more lenient vs. OBD2 programming. You don't have to worry about the pesky CKF sensor or the 2nd 02 sensor which are the two most annoying things about 96-00 Civic/96-01 Integra OBD2 ecu programming.

Some people jump into OBD1 engine to OBD2 vehicle swaps because (1) its a bit of cheaper swap vs. an OBD2 engine and/or the end user gotta good deal on it (2) the end user wasn't educated enough & didn't know there were differences with an OBD1/OBD2 engine swap or (3) end user purposely did an OBD1 swap because they were planning to convert to OBD1 ecu and knows OBD2 sucks.


To answer your questions.......
Aside from the OBD1/OBD2 plug differences, all B-series VTEC distributors are the same in regards to mounting. B-series Non-VTEC distr. are not the same as B-series VTEC distr. So make sure its off a B-vtec engine.

All stock B-series VTEC ecu's, regardless of OBD type look for a knock sensor (code 23), so that needs to be wired in to clear that code, unless you convert to OBD1 ecu and have it reprogrammed with a disabled knock sensor.

your crank fluctuation code, I'm guessing, is due to the CKF sensor. You're missing that sensor at the oil pump because you have an OBD1 engine which aren't equipped with one yet US OBD2 B-series engines are. Hence the need to perform the CKF bypass trick if you're using a US OBD2 ecu.

nharper12

where would you make a hole in the intake arm? can't find the plug

chrisc543

Thanks for the explanation.

My engine is obd2. But has obd1 injectors, dizzy, and alternator.

Got my primary o2 in yesterday and the secondary is there as you explained previously.

But I still have the knock code and cylinder fluctuation code. I confirmed that both sensors are wired. Not sure if I should buy new sensors or what.

Think I'm going to try and buy just the obd1 dizzy for now and knock sensor. Then wire up the ckf and see how it goes from there.

Katman

no problem..

That crank fluctuation code is either due to your dizzy going bad or the fact you don't have the oil pump mounted CKF sensor wired in, tho I'm betting its more the CKF than anything. Wire that in (and the knock) before throwing money at anything else.

what CEL code(s) are you getting?

chrisc543

The codes I am getting are

P1381 - cylinder position
P0325 - knock
P1337 - ckf
P0141 - second o2

I bought a new knock sensor haven't had a chance to put in yet. I'm worried something is wrong with engine.

gsrek6

Hey guys i have a b18c1 obd1 swap in my 96 with a reprogrammed p28 with a jumper harness i already did the 3wire to 2 wire iacv mod amd for some reason when i turn on the car it idles fine but no throttle response
Any ideas on what this might be

Katman

you getting a check engine light at all? if so, jump the diagnostic plug and see what CEL's you're getting.

I'm gonna guess you have the MAP and TPS sensor plugs crossed or the TPS isn't plugged in at all. TPS & MAP plugs looks exactly alike and the TPS controls your throttle response.

Katman

What's the regular blinking CEL codes you're getting?
If you're getting CEL code 9, that should relate to P1381.

CEL 9 is usually associated with the ignition (distributor) but can be associated with an alternator going bad, as some have mentioned. its a weird code to source the problem.
Check out this accord owner's story:
http://www.justanswer.com/honda/289k...ine-light.html

fyi, the CYP sensor is pointed out here within the dizzy:


knock (23), ckf (54), and 2nd 02 are obvious if you haven't wired these in or done anything about them yet.

gsrek6

[QUOTE=Katman;49558722]you getting a check engine light at all? if so, jump the diagnostic plug and see what CEL's you're getting.

I'm gonna guess you have the MAP and TPS sensor plugs crossed or the TPS isn't plugged in at all. TPS & MAP plugs looks exactly alikeQUOTE]

Its throwing code 5 which is map sensor do i have to wire the map sensor in or just get a new 1

Katman

nope, you shouldn't have to wire the MAP sensor at all.
Your MAP sensor is either jacked up or you have the MAP sensor connector plugged into the wrong sensor...such as the TPS (tho this would probably throw another CEL). If you have the MAP sensor from your D-series engine, swap that over to your B-series throttlebody and see if the code clears, just to cancel out if the B-series map is bad or not. Also, reset your ecu (pull backup fuse for 30 seconds or just unplug the ecu for the same amount of time).

limited_hero

Quick question. I have a 97 ls that I have a 95 ls donor. 97 is just body and interior and suspension. Wanting to run obd1 everything 95 ls ewh, odb1 Ecu with a jumper harness, obd1 b18b. My question is all I need to is wire up the vtps, vts, Ks from the Ecu on the obd2a side of the harness and I'm golden? I believe I have comprehended the write up I guess just double checking.