redman223

I have a gsr swap in my hatch, and it burns almost more oil than gas (see sig) (not literally), about a quart every tank of gas in cold weather, or a quart every 100 miles in the summer heat...

The piston rings are more than likely the culprit, as I replaced everything in the head a year ago when I burned up some valves (Check THIS out https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=380113) and it still burns oil (it has been burning oil constantly for over 2 years, I just drive around with a case of oil in the back). So, now that I am in germany and away from my car for a few months, I am going to have the block rebuilt and have my car shipped out here (August 1, 2004 is the deadline for having my car here).

My plans for the engine consist of a built block, with a stock head, and stock bolt ons (I have stock gsr intake, header, cat, and exhaust). Call me crazy, but this is my goal for the time being, a built top end is in the hatches future but that will not get done until august 2005 when I leave germany and come back to the states. This will give me a solid platform to work with, as right now something could break on the motor at any given time (its 10 years old for crying out loud, and has been abused a little too much...). Then I will be able to focus on the hatches suspension and begin repairing the wrecked Ninja 250 (again see sig)...

Now I plan to start "Operation Red Hatch" ASAP. I just gotta wait for careawholelot to take the car to the ref for me and do what has to be done to make it pass, so I get my shiny BAR sticker. Then I'll have him hit the dyno for the hell of it, just so I can see how shitty the #'s really are......maybe that will explain why my 1/4 times are so slow (once again see sig)... Once all that stuff is finished the motors coming out and the block is going to either RS Machines or Import Builders, right now I'm leaning towards RS.

resleeve the block and bore to 84.5 or 85mm
84.5 or 85mm 12:1 compression forged pistons
forged rods
arp rod bolts and head studs
dh-racing pulley
new pumps, bearings, seals, etc.
micro polish crank
assembly
balancing
send oil pan off to get baffled (seen it advertised by someone on this board)

hondata IM gasket
catch can
fuel pump of unknown size
AEM fuel pressure regulator
RC injectors of an unknown size
Hondata w/good tuning

Now realistically this motor is not very much different from a stock gst motor, as all the bolt ons are oem gsr. The only difference is the compression being bumped up 2pts and the displacement being incresed .2L, the pulley (no ac and no ps) and the flywheel are also lighter than stock, so that should free up some hp in comparison to a stock gsr motor. I heard that for every pt of compression there is a 5% hp increase, and I have seen stock cars gain hp from the hondata, so I am wondering if 170whp is attainable with this exact setup? Dont stock gsrs have 150whp stock (obd-1)?