so i had my clutch installed and i drove it home. didnt drive it till the next morning but when i get in and back up my engine light comes on. the guy is gonna check it for me. anyone ever have this happen or is this just good timing? wat things wen swapping clutches are moved or disconnected that can cause the light to come on if any?

Jairo j

 

Depending on how he did it, either nothing or the primary O2 sensor. I never remove anything CEL related when I change clutches in them but the service manual calls for removal of the header. If he couldn't get it out without removing the header he may have not plugged the o2 back in when he reinstalled it.


Otherwise I would have to say probably just a coincidence.

 

yah sounds like he left the 02 senser unpluged

 

o2 sensor on the header? i should check that? would it have taken that long to not register it? i drove home. like 20 mins drive then it went on

 

if it was left unpluged it should have set a code at start up

 

I can't remember man, I don't work on cars for a living anymore so I brain dumped a lot of this stuff. Some items like secondary o2's require a drive cycle to register a failure. Others do not. I don't know about the primary on a s2k but it's possible.

 

yah i feel you dude but if the circut does not complete it will throw it immediately
only reason i know becase i left mine unpluged when i put my test pipe on

 

Ah got ya.


I am honetly trying to brain dump the majority of the **** I spent most of my life learning and make a career change lol. I was in Aviation for 12 years and left as a QA and maintenance instructor, worked on cars in shops part time for a LONG time and full time up until 6 months ago. Just want something new and so I am starting to forget a LOT of my troubleshooting.

It happens.

 

ok where on the header is this sensor. my car is slammed and i sqeezed under it and i saw that the sensor on the cat was in. couldnt see one from where i was on the cat.

 

so my cousin took the car to school. (mechanic)
plugged my car in and the code that came up was p0411. incorrect air flow. so my cousin looked around and said it was a sensor that wasnt plugged in near the air box. i also remember the guy that installed my clutch removing the air box. so yay for me.

 

Still have an alldatapro account, list of steps here.

Looks to me like either a vacuum line or the little plug left off would be your problem man.


1. Reset the ECM.
2. Make sure the engine coolant temperature is over 32 °F (0 °C) and below 158 °F (60 °C) with the scan tool.
3. Start the engine. While the air pump operates, let the engine idle with no load (in neutral) for at least 10 seconds .
4. Check for a Temporary DTC with the scan tool. Is Temporary DTC P0411 indicated? YES - Go to step 5. NO - Intermittent failure, system is OK at this time. Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the air control valve vacuum control solenoid valve and at the ECM.
5. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
6. Check the vacuum lines of the air pump system for misrouting, leakage, breakage, and clogging. Are the vacuum lines OK? YES - Go to step 7. NO - Repair or replace vacuum lines as necessary.
7. Reset the ECM.
8. Make sure the engine coolant temperature is over 32 °F (0 °C) and below 158 °F (60 °C) with the scan tool.



9. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the air control valve (A), and connect a vacuum gauge to the hose.
10. Start the engine. While the air pump operates, let the engine idle with no load (in neutral). Is there vacuum while the air pump operates? YES - Go to step 11. NO - Go to step 17.
11. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
12. Disconnect the air control valve vacuum control solenoid valve 2P connector.



13. Check for the continuity between the air control valve vacuum control solenoid valve 2P connector terminal No.2 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Go to step 14. NO - Replace the air control valve vacuum control solenoid valve.
14. Disconnect ECM connector A (32P).



15. Check for continuity between air control valve vacuum control solenoid valve 2P connector terminal No.2 and body ground. Is there continuity? YES - Repair short in the wire between the air control valve vacuum control solenoid valve and the ECM (A2). NO - Substitute a known-good ECM and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original ECM.
16. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
17. Check the No.6 ACG (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. Is the fuse OK? YES - Go to step 18. NO - Repair short in the wire between No.6 ACG (15 A) fuse and the gauge assembly. Then replace the No.6 ACG (15 A) fuse.
18. Disconnect the air control valve vacuum control solenoid valve 2P connector.
19. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).



20. Measure voltage between air control valve vacuum control solenoid valve 2P connector terminal No.1 and body ground. Is there battery voltage? YES - Go to step 21. NO - Repair open in the wire between the No.6 ACG (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box and air control solenoid valve.
21. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
22. Reconnect the air control valve vacuum control solenoid valve 2P connector.
23. Disconnect ECM connector A (32P).
24. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and measure voltage between ECM connector terminal A2 and body ground. Is there less than 1.0 V ? YES - Repair open in the wire between the air control valve vacuum control solenoid valve and the ECM (A2). If the wire is OK, replace the air control valve vacuum control solenoid valve. NO - Substitute a known-good ECM and recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original ECM.

 

jay thnx for the info. sorry i didnt put down that my cuz did that for me already. found the issue and i have all the papers from alldata in my car! thnx again! i just wanted to let everyone know that i fixed it. thnx again

 

Good deal man.

 

what was your problem,or rather how did you fix it? i am throwing the same code.