speedometer and odometer not working
What up guys I got a problem. I just changed the clutch and driver side axle. When I got it back together speedo wasn't working. Of coarse first thing I checked to make sure I plugged sensor back up. I also checked the wires and made sure it was getting power. I have since tried replacing with new vss sensors (2) neither worked. I also put car in reverse and let it roll back with sensor out to see if the gear or whatever turns the sensor and it turned. Any suggestions? Could the gear or whatever turns the sensor b broke even though it still turns in reverse?
<p>Are you sure the VSS is seating all the way down and engaging the gear? It takes a little bit of wiggling it in correctly, especially if the o-ring is new. Also make sure not to over-tighten it, the ear on the vss body breaks VERY easily.</p><p> </p><p>Also double check that the plug is seated well, and the engine harness to body harness is connected completely.</p>
AThanks for the reply. When I pulled trans/ axle I never removed the vss I only unplugged it. Are u supposed to remove the vss when your changing axles? The passenger axle went back in the trans really easy. But I had a hell of a time getting it back in the hub. I'm wondering if I could of damaged the gear from from beating it in lol. I'm not exactly sure how the gear is attached or how to go about fixing if so. The check engine light is on I'm gonna run codes after work. When I put my trans fluid back in I poured it in the CSS pressure release port. I've did this many times on diff vehicles. I wonder if that may have caused it
Damn I hope Its not something inside the trans. The splines at the very end of the axle was messed up.(hub end) I had to take a dremel and go in between them. Then like a dummy I picked up the hub lined up splines and slammed it in place. Hmmm idkI also put a new axle on the drivers side. I wonder if the abs sensor that reads the axle could cause speedo not to work. Probably not the abs light would be on. Idk any suggestions
Edit: Im gonna try taking the bottom half of the vss off and go from there. From what I've read it should be one bolt holding it on
Edit: Im gonna try taking the bottom half of the vss off and go from there. From what I've read it should be one bolt holding it on
Last edited by sublimeluder; Sep 18, 2015 at 09:08 AM. Reason: new info
<p>Are you sure the VSS is seating all the way down and engaging the gear? It takes a little bit of wiggling it in correctly, especially if the o-ring is new. Also make sure not to over-tighten it, the ear on the vss body breaks VERY easily.</p><p> </p><p>Also double check that the plug is seated well, and the engine harness to body harness is connected completely.</p>
Edit. The oring I saw was for the top half its good. I pulled the complete assembly out cleaned and reinstalled. Everything looks good I even tested the wires again 2hot and 1ground.idk whatelse to do
Last edited by sublimeluder; Sep 19, 2015 at 11:36 AM. Reason: new info
I literally cut my abs lines off the spindles when I went 5 lug, so I highly doubt that's the source of your CEL.
Also I'm not understanding how if u unplugged the VSS that ur having this issue. When I did my tranny, I left the VSS in the tranny and simply unplugged the actual harness and 2 PS assist hardlines. Is that what u did, or u removed the entire VSS? I hear people who do remove the VSS to ensure it doesn't break, but that seems unnecessary work.
Also, the axles have alot of give. Ok nor alot, but if u have it in the tranny already and start pounding it into the hub, as long as you're not pounding directly back towards the tranny but have the spindle turned full left or right then the force won't distribute into the tranny. U want to drop the balljoint into the LCA, then hit the axle through from the rear. But I digress. You're past that point now.
It sure sounds like you've got a VSS-related problem. Might want to drain tranny fluid from the drain bolt and remove/refill until it comes out of the upper drain bolt.
Also I'm not understanding how if u unplugged the VSS that ur having this issue. When I did my tranny, I left the VSS in the tranny and simply unplugged the actual harness and 2 PS assist hardlines. Is that what u did, or u removed the entire VSS? I hear people who do remove the VSS to ensure it doesn't break, but that seems unnecessary work.
Also, the axles have alot of give. Ok nor alot, but if u have it in the tranny already and start pounding it into the hub, as long as you're not pounding directly back towards the tranny but have the spindle turned full left or right then the force won't distribute into the tranny. U want to drop the balljoint into the LCA, then hit the axle through from the rear. But I digress. You're past that point now.
It sure sounds like you've got a VSS-related problem. Might want to drain tranny fluid from the drain bolt and remove/refill until it comes out of the upper drain bolt.
I literally cut my abs lines off the spindles when I went 5 lug, so I highly doubt that's the source of your CEL.
Also I'm not understanding how if u unplugged the VSS that ur having this issue. When I did my tranny, I left the VSS in the tranny and simply unplugged the actual harness and 2 PS assist hardlines. Is that what u did, or u removed the entire VSS? I hear people who do remove the VSS to ensure it doesn't break, but that seems unnecessary work.
Also, the axles have alot of give. Ok nor alot, but if u have it in the tranny already and start pounding it into the hub, as long as you're not pounding directly back towards the tranny but have the spindle turned full left or right then the force won't distribute into the tranny. U want to drop the balljoint into the LCA, then hit the axle through from the rear. But I digress. You're past that point now.
It sure sounds like you've got a VSS-related problem. Might want to drain tranny fluid from the drain bolt and remove/refill until it comes out of the upper drain bolt.
Also I'm not understanding how if u unplugged the VSS that ur having this issue. When I did my tranny, I left the VSS in the tranny and simply unplugged the actual harness and 2 PS assist hardlines. Is that what u did, or u removed the entire VSS? I hear people who do remove the VSS to ensure it doesn't break, but that seems unnecessary work.
Also, the axles have alot of give. Ok nor alot, but if u have it in the tranny already and start pounding it into the hub, as long as you're not pounding directly back towards the tranny but have the spindle turned full left or right then the force won't distribute into the tranny. U want to drop the balljoint into the LCA, then hit the axle through from the rear. But I digress. You're past that point now.
It sure sounds like you've got a VSS-related problem. Might want to drain tranny fluid from the drain bolt and remove/refill until it comes out of the upper drain bolt.
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Thanks for the reply. Yea I just unplugged the vss harness when*removed trans/axles. I checked the cel code and it says vehicle speed sensor as I suspected. I also pulled the complete assembly out and everything looks good. I even tried manually turning the gear to see if MPH would read and nothing. I stuck a light tester in harness (3prong=3wires) 1 didn't light up. 1lit up dim and 1 lit up really bright. Which I figured 2 was hot and 1 ground. I'm gonna get an ohm reading tomorrow.
So my guess would be 12v constant, 5v reference control, and a voltage that will change with perceived speed. U said one didn't light up, so it could be the 5v reference control is just a ground, or it could be u yanked a wire.
U need the values to accurately fix this. If 2 new vss have not solved the problem, u may have yanked a wire by mistake and fubar'd it. U may need to backtrace into the harness. I personally would start with dumping trans fluid and filling from the upper drain bolt correctly. You could simply have too much fluid in there, submerging the VSS (if that's possible, idk, but just to rule out something stupid yknow lol).
If you're proficient in electrical diagnosis, this shouldn't be much difficult. May want to backtrace the VSS wires back into the engine harness a bit. Every point u test that ohms out, u eliminate the area up to that point. Make sense?
If you separated the electrical portion (with the P/S lines attached) from the base, chances are good that the small blade coupler that connects the lower shaft to the square male pin of the electrical sensor on top fell off when separated and you didn't realize it. If that is missing, you will need to find your original one or replace it.
In the future, I suggest removing the single bolt holding the entire VSS assembly to the transmission and gently twisting all of it out... and then lay it back toward the firewall/over the rear crossmember and out of the way. Do your work and then re-install it, being careful as stated above not to try and "pull" it into place using the single bolt... this usually breaks the mounting ear off. Lube the O-ring and push it in the hole with a back and forth twisting motion to seat it all of the way. Once seated properly, tighten the bolt.
In the future, I suggest removing the single bolt holding the entire VSS assembly to the transmission and gently twisting all of it out... and then lay it back toward the firewall/over the rear crossmember and out of the way. Do your work and then re-install it, being careful as stated above not to try and "pull" it into place using the single bolt... this usually breaks the mounting ear off. Lube the O-ring and push it in the hole with a back and forth twisting motion to seat it all of the way. Once seated properly, tighten the bolt.
Just curious, why don't people just unplug the power steering hardlines and call it a day? Even the FSM recommends practically disassembling the VSS for a tranny removal. That's a time consumer.
Sure it'll leak a ton of PS fluid, but with a catch can under, it makes for a good time to change the PS fluid anyways. Or just some quick hands to plug the lines quickly.
Sure it'll leak a ton of PS fluid, but with a catch can under, it makes for a good time to change the PS fluid anyways. Or just some quick hands to plug the lines quickly.
Does the speedometer work when you put the car in reverse and reverse for 75 ft at about 10 mph? If it does I know your issue and will post up pictures if that's the case..
If you separated the electrical portion (with the P/S lines attached) from the base, chances are good that the small blade coupler that connects the lower shaft to the square male pin of the electrical sensor on top fell off when separated and you didn't realize it. If that is missing, you will need to find your original one or replace it.
In the future, I suggest removing the single bolt holding the entire VSS assembly to the transmission and gently twisting all of it out... and then lay it back toward the firewall/over the rear crossmember and out of the way. Do your work and then re-install it, being careful as stated above not to try and "pull" it into place using the single bolt... this usually breaks the mounting ear off. Lube the O-ring and push it in the hole with a back and forth twisting motion to seat it all of the way. Once seated properly, tighten the bolt.
In the future, I suggest removing the single bolt holding the entire VSS assembly to the transmission and gently twisting all of it out... and then lay it back toward the firewall/over the rear crossmember and out of the way. Do your work and then re-install it, being careful as stated above not to try and "pull" it into place using the single bolt... this usually breaks the mounting ear off. Lube the O-ring and push it in the hole with a back and forth twisting motion to seat it all of the way. Once seated properly, tighten the bolt.
I dunno what else to do guys. Its getting power so it must be the ecu. I guess I hooked my battery up before I plugged in the vss harness and the ecu didn't like it. I'm gonna stop by the junkyard in the morning and pick one up. I'll let ya know what happens.
The issue I had was the vss gear on the differential was not pressed completely on.. when in reverse the gears together will push the gear back on the diff the correct way but as soon as you go forward the gear will come off(not completely) enough for it to not catch the sensor gear.. but this is a rare case and probably not your issue..
The issue I had was the vss gear on the differential was not pressed completely on.. when in reverse the gears together will push the gear back on the diff the correct way but as soon as you go forward the gear will come off(not completely) enough for it to not catch the sensor gear.. but this is a rare case and probably not your issue..
If it was working before you unplugged it obviously this can only be either you broke one of the wires when unplugging it(perhaps it's inside the wire and you can't see it)or one of the pins on the connector is bad/bent or it's simply not plugged in all the way. My aftermarket vss's work great but it was a bit of a pain to plug them in all the way. I really had to put some muscle on it.
If it was working before you unplugged it obviously this can only be either you broke one of the wires when unplugging it(perhaps it's inside the wire and you can't see it)or one of the pins on the connector is bad/bent or it's simply not plugged in all the way. My aftermarket vss's work great but it was a bit of a pain to plug them in all the way. I really had to put some muscle on it.
PS I'm going to be updating my poor mans h22 build thread soon. I put in vacation Oct 8,9 and I'm gonna start rebuild
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