Shift Cables Install
Well I finally found out why my tranny was so notchy and wouldn't go into gear...shift cables, the small one on the left was bent and would stick. On the car I wondered if it could be a shift fork sticking but when I removed the cables and had them laying out i moved them and it was amazing how bad the cables stuck in one spot. So i bought some brand new ones to make sure that I wouldn't have the same problem, here is my install steps, I know it's not hard but atleast it's a little walk through of what it takes with me and a friend.
REMOVING
1)I don't think I need to show center console removal...lol, we started inside by removing the clips from the shifter mounting brack with a pair of vice grips for good clamping preasure, takes a good bit of wiggling.

2) Next you have to line up the shift cable perfect and it will slide back through the bracket.

3) We didn't really feel like dropping the exhaust so we found a easy way around that. First we unbolt the two front bolts of the heat shield by the cat. then we took a wrench and poped that parts of the shield off, after that we bent both sides...don't worry bends back just fine TRUST me I bent the crap out of it.
4) Now we took a 10mm Swivel socket and took out the two bolts holding on the cable plate that leadd into the car, this pic is showing that it's not easiest place to get to, but very possible. becareful cause I slipped like an idiot and cut myself on that heat shield..

5) Moving toward the engine bay there is a brackrt holding the cables that has two bolts in it 10mm I beleive.

6) With the intake removed. Reach down and take a vice grip and pull the two clips that are holding on the cables, these clips are the same as the clips inside the car.

7)Next you will have to take a needle nosed, and pull the cotter pins out from where the two cable mount up, be careful b/c they both have a two big washers.
(NO PIC)
Installing
8) Then take the new cables and place zip ties every 2-4 inches I placed mine every 3" by guessing not getting technical. Also there is a black rubber piece that acts like a seal, that tend to fall off of the metal bracket when installing, I would suggest putting a couple dabs of super glue to hold it to the metal plate due to the fact it will save alot of hassel when trying to get in between the small space between the heat shield and bolting it up


9) In my case we ran the new cables up through the engine bay first,do not bolt them down yet or put the clips on. Then carefully bend the other end into the car's floorboard. Now you go back up to the engine bay and put the cotter pins and washers back on. Now replace the clips in the engine bay.
Going back underneath the car bolt the bracket up near the engine bay, tighten the two bolts up to the floorboard. Now Reaplace heatshield and bolts.
I found this funny that my new cables only had one adjustment on the small arm, compared to the old set that had two adjustments....and then my friends 93' USDM had no adjustments.
REMOVING
1)I don't think I need to show center console removal...lol, we started inside by removing the clips from the shifter mounting brack with a pair of vice grips for good clamping preasure, takes a good bit of wiggling.

2) Next you have to line up the shift cable perfect and it will slide back through the bracket.

3) We didn't really feel like dropping the exhaust so we found a easy way around that. First we unbolt the two front bolts of the heat shield by the cat. then we took a wrench and poped that parts of the shield off, after that we bent both sides...don't worry bends back just fine TRUST me I bent the crap out of it.
4) Now we took a 10mm Swivel socket and took out the two bolts holding on the cable plate that leadd into the car, this pic is showing that it's not easiest place to get to, but very possible. becareful cause I slipped like an idiot and cut myself on that heat shield..

5) Moving toward the engine bay there is a brackrt holding the cables that has two bolts in it 10mm I beleive.

6) With the intake removed. Reach down and take a vice grip and pull the two clips that are holding on the cables, these clips are the same as the clips inside the car.


7)Next you will have to take a needle nosed, and pull the cotter pins out from where the two cable mount up, be careful b/c they both have a two big washers.
(NO PIC)
Installing
8) Then take the new cables and place zip ties every 2-4 inches I placed mine every 3" by guessing not getting technical. Also there is a black rubber piece that acts like a seal, that tend to fall off of the metal bracket when installing, I would suggest putting a couple dabs of super glue to hold it to the metal plate due to the fact it will save alot of hassel when trying to get in between the small space between the heat shield and bolting it up


9) In my case we ran the new cables up through the engine bay first,do not bolt them down yet or put the clips on. Then carefully bend the other end into the car's floorboard. Now you go back up to the engine bay and put the cotter pins and washers back on. Now replace the clips in the engine bay.
Going back underneath the car bolt the bracket up near the engine bay, tighten the two bolts up to the floorboard. Now Reaplace heatshield and bolts.
I found this funny that my new cables only had one adjustment on the small arm, compared to the old set that had two adjustments....and then my friends 93' USDM had no adjustments.
$292 shipped from a honda site i found, but from the honda dealer $400 after tax. lol i needed them in quick and no one had any so last resort plus a good thing is i know they are brand new
Looks nice. It's pretty much the same thing for a 5th gen. The heat shields bend easily or you can just remove them.
I used cables from a Euro R accord and they fit just fine, so keep the accord cables in mind if you can find them for less. The only modification you need to do to accord cables is swap mounting brackets for the under side and swap the rubber boot that makes the seal on the floor board.
I used cables from a Euro R accord and they fit just fine, so keep the accord cables in mind if you can find them for less. The only modification you need to do to accord cables is swap mounting brackets for the under side and swap the rubber boot that makes the seal on the floor board.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92JDMH22Prelude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">$292 shipped from a honda site i found, but from the honda dealer $400 after tax. lol i needed them in quick and no one had any so last resort plus a good thing is i know they are brand new
</TD></TR></TABLE>
for reals!?!?!??! that's A LOT. I bought a set of used ones for $50 and I thought that was expensive. lol, I guess I'm just cheap. lol...
</TD></TR></TABLE>for reals!?!?!??! that's A LOT. I bought a set of used ones for $50 and I thought that was expensive. lol, I guess I'm just cheap. lol...
Trending Topics
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92JDMH22Prelude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah wish i knew about eh Euro R before i did this but i bet that it is rare to find.. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Regular accord ones aren't hard to find.
Regular accord ones aren't hard to find.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Aralliius
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
13
Jul 15, 2007 12:12 AM





