Just got done rebuilding my h22. Only after I have been driving around for awhile, do I get a CEL for the knock sensor. Is there a chance that mine could be bad? I've heard that they are very fragile. It is rebuilt to about 8.8:1 (n/a for the time being) and is using stock injectors and stock timing. I never had it before the motor was torn down, so, i was guessing that it could be bad. The egt is in the correct range and i have not heard any audible pinging. If anybody has any input, it would be appreciated.

thanks

mike


[Modified by h22apwrd95, 2:42 PM 12/28/2002]

 

The probable causes are:

Open or short in Knock Sensor (KS) circuit
Knock Sensor (KS)
ECM

Does the CEL come on automatically when the car is started or only when the engine is under hard load? You might want to put your car up on jacks and take a look at your knock sensor to make sure its installed correctly and to the right torque, also make sure the wire harness clip is properly connected as well. If all else fails, find someone with a spare knock sensor and replace yours. Remember to reset the computer by either pulling the 15v fuse for a minute or by disconnecting the negative terminal of your battery for a minute.

 

The knock sensor only has one wire right? Or should it be grounded to something? We just put a built H22 in an accord, and it throws code 20 and 23, so something is wrong with the knock sensor......we only have one wire coming from the sensor to the ECU, and I'm pretty sure it's connected......any ideas?
Brian

 

Does the wire harness have a knock sensor clip on it? What ecu and wire harness are you running?

 

Original harness didn't have a knock plug (its a 1990 accord, so no knock sensor originally)....it's a totally built H22 and came with a knock sensor already in the block, so we just used that one and wired it up to the ECU (it's a P13)....I guess it's possible that the wire isn't making a good connection to the pin on the ECU, but the car trips a code as soon as it's warmed up and out of open loop.....
Brian

 

Im going to have to say its a bad connection in your case. Check your wiring, if all else fails replace the knock sensor.

 

Yeah, that's what I figured....I think the knock pin is one of the smaller ones so it might not be making a good connection Good that someone else thinks the same thing though!
Brian

 

I'm about a 1000 miles from the car right now, but when I get back, i'll pop in the other one I have around, and i'll check and make sure the harness is connected. Thanks for your quick reply.

Mike

 

when you say totally built... do you mean forged parts inside? If so, most likely the clatter of these parts are setting it off. That's one of the bad sides of the knock sensor on a built motor

 

forged pistons do slap a little, but ive never heard of it being so severe that it would throw a ks code

 

Yeah, by totally built I mean JE 9:1's, Benson sleeved, Crower rods, ferrera valves, etc......it's gonna be running however much boost it takes to hit around 400whp....
The motor runs nice and quiet and doesn't seem to have enough piston slap to bother a knock sensor, but I guess that could be it...or the sensor is faulty (which could be)....
I'm just gonna have to play with it more, but the connection at the ECU is my first guess at the problem...
Brian

 

i read about it happening quite a few times. It's just the frequency and vibrations the parts cause, not that it's so much an audiable tone to your ear

 

where is the knock sensor located at? I can't seem to find it, I really need help locating it.

 

in the red circle, if you need a pic of the actual sensor let me know

 

Thanks, where can I get the knock sensor?