DarkBB4

Hey, next week i'm pulling my motor and I was wondering if i should put my OEM flywheel back on (ill get it resurfaced). The JUN is awsome and light weight, but its difficult to drive smooth, and has the notorious GRINDING starter problem...

Also I am running a 75 shot so I am expecting 250-275 WHP from my JDMh22a

how much power will i Lose/Gain

Positives/Negatives w/ swapping it?

EDIT: Also, I might swap out for a new clutch (running exedy organic)... what would you reccomend for my setup?

hu

I am unfamiliar with Jun having this problem.

I personally do not like Fidanza. If you want a cromoly flywheel, go with kaiten:
http://robearracing.com/pd_kaiten_super_karui.cfm

It is 8.8lbs.

If you are using Nitrous, get a stage 2 or 3 clutch. Exedy Stage II is good.

DarkBB4

well if i remove the jun, then i'm just going OEM resurfaced... a new lightweight flywheel is not in my budget

spun311

I am not running a Jun flywheel but I do have a Fidanza flywheel. I noticed an increase in acceleration after adding the flywheel. I don't have an official dyno to show you or anything but the butt dyno detected an increase. I don't see any reason you should lose any power. If anything you should gain a little bit due to loss of rotational mass. Another thing I would keep in mind when making your decision is that the loss in mass of your flywheel will decrease inertia as well. Your car will fall in revs faster, so making quick, clean shifts will be paramount to good times at the track.

hu

stick with the Jun in that case

petern101

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DarkBB4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Also I am running a 75 shot so I am expecting 250-275 WHP from my JDMh22a

</TD></TR></TABLE>

unless you have more stuff. i doubt you are making 200 whp from a stock jdm h22, then a 75 shot isn't really exactly 50-75 more whp. why don't you get a dyno run? i'm pretty sure you'll be slightly dissapointed (assuming all you have is nos).

fyi stock jdm h22s dyno around 150-160 whp

DarkBB4

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by petern101 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

unless you have more stuff. i doubt you are making 200 whp from a stock jdm h22, then a 75 shot isn't really exactly 50-75 more whp. why don't you get a dyno run? i'm pretty sure you'll be slightly dissapointed (assuming all you have is nos).

fyi stock jdm h22s dyno around 150-160 whp </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes i dynoed at 183whp w/ my usdm h22a1 w/ less mods than i have now

I have

JDM h22a
Password JDM intake chamber
Megan racing header w/ collector mod
test pipe
p28 w/ chrome (will be tuned)
Removed balance shafts
Manual tensioner
Jun Flywheel
Exedy clutch
NGK blues
Zex 75 shot
No ac/ps/ or any drag on pully besides alternator

tacticalcustoms

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am unfamiliar with Jun having this problem.

I personally do not like Fidanza. If you want a cromoly flywheel, go with kaiten:
http://robearracing.com/pd_kaiten_super_karui.cfm

It is 8.8lbs.

If you are using Nitrous, get a stage 2 or 3 clutch. Exedy Stage II is good.</TD></TR></TABLE> whats wrong with Fidanza? did you have problems?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DarkBB4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey, next week i'm pulling my motor and I was wondering if i should put my OEM flywheel back on (ill get it resurfaced). The JUN is awsome and light weight, but its difficult to drive smooth, and has the notorious GRINDING starter problem...

Also I am running a 75 shot so I am expecting 250-275 WHP from my JDMh22a

how much power will i Lose/Gain

Positives/Negatives w/ swapping it?

EDIT: Also, I might swap out for a new clutch (running exedy organic)... what would you reccomend for my setup?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'll buy your JUN flywheel if you decide you don't want it anymore

MLBZ521

iTrader: (6)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DarkBB4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes i dynoed at 183whp w/ my usdm h22a1 w/ less mods than i have now

I have

JDM h22a
Password JDM intake chamber
Megan racing header w/ collector mod
test pipe
p28 w/ chrome (will be tuned)
Removed balance shafts
Manual tensioner
Jun Flywheel
Exedy clutch
NGK blues
Zex 75 shot
No ac/ps/ or any drag on pully besides alternator</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's.. Not going to equal 250whp - 275whp... The 75 Shot of NOS might help to get up there, but... Otherwise.. I dout it...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DarkBB4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey, next week i'm pulling my motor and I was wondering if i should put my OEM flywheel back on (ill get it resurfaced). The JUN is awsome and light weight, but its difficult to drive smooth, and has the notorious GRINDING starter problem...</TD></TR></TABLE>

But I want to know more about your issues.. So you driving right now or were driving with the JUN Flywheel in there? Were you having problems with it yourself??
I'm curious to know as I have picked up a JUN Flywheel along the way and was planning on using it one day. But I haven't heard these problems before..

Anymore info on said issues?

DarkBB4

hi, Yes im sorry but a 75 shot will bring me very close to if not more than 250whp... Ill have the dyno in a few months to back that up...

The JUN flywheel has been on there for 2 years. It revs unbelievably fast and its really fun to "get on it"

the notorious starting problem is because of the usdm starter not lining up 100% w/ the flywheel causing worn edges on the flywheel and starter (pinion gear does not come out far enough)... This problem is supposively solved w/ a JDM starter unit, although once the damage is done.. the flywheel occasionally grinds on the starter when trying to start.

MLBZ521

iTrader: (6)

Hmm...

I'm using a JDM Starter from my M2B4 on my USDM Si M2S4 Tranny and I haven't had any problems, but I guess there wouldn't be any though..

Guess I'll find out later if I use the JUN Flywheel and when my M2B4 goes on the A4..

Unless I change my Tranny's out because my M2S4 has a slight grind in 3rd...

LudaChris

True, you should be around the 250whp or more depending on your mixture of jets. I used to run 100shot (dry) on my Lude then got a greddy turbo kit 10 psi dynoed at 280whp, it was about the same since I race my buddy to see any difference. Man I Love Nitrous.

Missing Gears

jun designed their flywheels for jdm motors. you will need a jdm starter to work properly w/ one, even on the b series motors. jun will tell you this when you call them. the teeth on the jdm starters have an angle to them and the usdm teeth dont, this is what causes the problem.

MLBZ521

iTrader: (6)

Interesting... Nice to know.. Thanks man!

hu

Can you use a usdm starter on a jdm engine and be okay with a non jun flywheel?

DarkBB4

yes

mgags7

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can you use a usdm starter on a jdm engine and be okay with a non jun flywheel?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've used both a jdm starter on a usdm engine, and a usdm starter on a jdm engine, and they both worked just fine. For some reason, the aftermarket flywheels exhibit the problem, and not teh stockers.

Evan, keep the light flywheel on there, its fun, you'll be bored with a 25lb OEM flywheel in no time.

I don't see how it revs "that" fast, my 9lb fidanza doesn't make my car rev all that fast.....

DarkBB4

must be the uber jdm power of the JUN (im not even sure on the weight)

but its to the point where between shifts.. it drops down to like 1k rpm and w/ the p28 its just tricky to drive smooth (no1 else can drive my car at all)

mgags7

how slow do you shift?

Are you saying if you shifted at 3500 at a comfortable pace into gear, it would be at idle by the time you got there???

Thats very odd....

DarkBB4

i shift normal haha.. if i shift at 3500.. byt he time i put it in the next gear its sually 2000RPMS or so, so i have to give it quite a bit of gas to rev match


its a combination of a basemap tuning + the jun flywhel

MLBZ521

iTrader: (6)

Weight is...

H22A (L/W: Lightweight, U/L: Ultralight)
L/W - 5.5kg - 2001M-H006
U/L - 5.2kg - 2010M-H006

L/W - Roughly 12lbs, (12.125424420168266 pounds)
U/L - Roughly 11.5lbs, (11.464037633613634 pounds)
With an 0.661386786554632 pound difference.

So it's no where near the "Lightest" Flywheel out there..
So it's really not all that special on the weight factor, but I'd think it would still be good for a daily driver compared to all the others that get lighter flywheels for their cars. But I dunno..

hella_usdm

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DarkBB4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey, next week i'm pulling my motor and I was wondering if i should put my OEM flywheel back on (ill get it resurfaced). The JUN is awsome and light weight, but its difficult to drive smooth, and has the notorious GRINDING starter problem...

Also I am running a 75 shot so I am expecting 250-275 WHP from my JDMh22a

how much power will i Lose/Gain

Positives/Negatives w/ swapping it?

EDIT: Also, I might swap out for a new clutch (running exedy organic)... what would you reccomend for my setup?</TD></TR></TABLE>

keep the jun flywheel and learn how to drive better

wannabe

I've got a USDM H22a with the Jun 12 lb chrome moly flywheel. It was the best mod I made from a "fun" standpoint. The car accelerates faster and downshifting is easier. I did not have any starter problems that you mentioned. My engine is USDM N/A with bolt-ons, around 175 whp according to the dyno. Your shifting problems could come from an over-aggresive clutch. I use AEM's organic clutch material with no problems, other than having to rev a little higher from a stop to avoid stalling. If you get 200+whp, you can't use an organic clutch material unless you want to change it out every 3-4 months. With my set-up, I had to change the clutch plate out every 8-10k miles due to wear. I don't know why, because I don't take the car to the track, but it just wouldn't last longer than that.

Ludster

Sorry to thread jack

any of you guys have pics of the JUN flywheel? I'm actually trying to identify the one I have. there aren't any stamp marks

MLBZ521

iTrader: (6)

Here's pictures of the one I have...
Only have a picture of one side of it though... If you want to see the other I can try and get one...