ok heres the deal... intake exhaust clutch and flywheel = 14.60 @ 94.9 with a 1995 jdm vtec lude heres the problem.... intake exhaust type-s cams milled head to 12.0:1 compression = 14.82 @ 93.7 why am i going slower with higher compression and better cams? please help thanx :

 

double post much?

 

naw just really need an answer

 

Dude running at the track and getting slower times dont mean ****..
You ever heard of track conditions, weather? Hell, the damn Barometric pressure could of been down that day,or maybe bubba bill didnt prep the track that day... Take the damn thing to a dyno, and get some damn Cam Gears, for them cams you got so you can tune them right.

 

well being that its not an aftermarket cam i thought the stock setting would be ok

 

the 14.6 was with 57 degree weather and the 14.7 was with 96 degree weather could the temp make u lose like 5 mph

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by donnjuan2point2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the 14.6 was with 57 degree weather and the 14.7 was with 96 degree weather could the temp make u lose like 5 mph</TD></TR></TABLE>

it probably contributed to it

the fact that your car is untuned as well is most likely the biggest factor, you cant just plug and play and expect great time improvements, especially with the mods you listed

 

you keep saying w/stock cams...but those cams are not stock for you. they have a different fuel and timing map that they run on.

you need some cam gears and some kind of fuel/timing mgmt, and you will see great results.

also how much did you have the head milled to get that compression. what octane are you running? what timing are you running?

 

judging by your location, new jersey is death with humidity.
i'm from the area and running at 57 degrees is much, much different compared to 96 degrees.

how much of your head was hacked to achieve 12:1compression. the jdm h22a's come with 10:6:1. you've increased your compression by over one point.
experiencing any piston slap?

also, using prelude type s cams are not proven like using ctr/itr cams in a b series motor. i've seen people get very minimal or almost no gains with them unlike the b series counterparts. there's no guarantee that you're actually gaining power by using the type s intake cam.

 

i milled the head 30 thousandths and took 2 layers off my head gasket which brings it from 10.6:1 to 12.1:1 i ran on 104 ocatne and my lip read
r.t. - .587
60ft - 2.312
330ft - 6.321
1/8 - 9.521 @ 74.2
1000ft - 12.42
1/4 - 14.72 @93.7 i went 14.6 @94.9 with jus intake exhaust and clutch

 

ttt

 

BUMP

 

bump

 

bump

 

type-s cams is your problem. try put back in your stock cams. i bet you run a better time!.

 

thanx i will definetly try that but why is the type s not a good choice?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CleanHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">type-s cams is your problem. try put back in your stock cams. i bet you run a better time!.</TD></TR></TABLE>

And just how did you come to this conclusion???

 

bump

 

holy bumpage batman,, dude i think you got your answer, your doing upgrades on you car without tuning. sure some bolt ons will help you car breath better but if you changing the compression and the cams which hp power is greatly affected by timing and the new duration and lift of you cams. the best thing to do is buy a vafc or some other tunable device, and take it to a dyno get some cam gears if u don't alredy have them and tune you car.

also what probably made you slower is the temp and your first run could have been you best and after you did the upgrades you just reacted alittle slow and had a little less or more wheel spin

edit: i would be asking this quesiton if you dynoed b4 the milled head and cams and then dynoed angian and had lower numbers after the upgrade, then i would be worried,