h22a problems with picture
So i have a jdm h22a in my 1992 prelude
i was backing up into my garage. the car was already idling pretty low. around 400rpm. as soon as i backed it into my garage, it went to 100rpm and died.
then i tried starting it. it would crank and turn over. but no start. eventually it started again
i checked the valve spring bolts. none are loose. the map plug isnt dirty or anything.
then i took my finger and slid it on the underside of my actual valve cover. and this...

it isnt on the dib stick. its only on the actual valve cover(from what i can see)
some are telling me its because its cold and my car has been sitting since i bought it(a month ago). but i start it and take it for a boot once a week. someone said its condensation.
maybe the head gasket is blown? or about to blow?
i was backing up into my garage. the car was already idling pretty low. around 400rpm. as soon as i backed it into my garage, it went to 100rpm and died.
then i tried starting it. it would crank and turn over. but no start. eventually it started again
i checked the valve spring bolts. none are loose. the map plug isnt dirty or anything.
then i took my finger and slid it on the underside of my actual valve cover. and this...

it isnt on the dib stick. its only on the actual valve cover(from what i can see)
some are telling me its because its cold and my car has been sitting since i bought it(a month ago). but i start it and take it for a boot once a week. someone said its condensation.
maybe the head gasket is blown? or about to blow?
Well I'd say coolant is mixing somewhere with oil. And that sludge is deadly to a motor
Maybe try a leak down test and see if you're loosing air anywhere to see if you are loosing air through the head gasket
Maybe try a leak down test and see if you're loosing air anywhere to see if you are loosing air through the head gasket
when the oil and coolant mix together that means your head gasket is blown. The head gasket is what keeps oil, coolant, and combustion chamber separate...albeit short of a cracked block of course.
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Could also be caused by lots of cold starts.. If its really cold outside stuff starts to vaporate up into the valve cover, not sure how to explain this correct.. Im from Denmark sorry..
if you never allow your engine to get to operating temp before shutting it off you will build up condensation in the cylinder head. Also, if your PCV isnt working you can get pressure build up and lsudge build up. I dont think this is your issue as to me it seems you have bad HG.
I never have let it get to operating temp before shutting it off. I dont drive it yet, so I turn it on for about 5min just to get her moving. I will check if the pcv valve is working. thats the L shape that plugs into the valve cover right?
How does one check if its working? see if its sucking? or spitting?
How does one check if its working? see if its sucking? or spitting?
As Bouckaroo said, let the engine get fully up to operating temp if you run it, usually the best way to do it is to get to the middle temp bar, and allow it to cycle the cooling fan once or twice before shutting it off, that way you know the full engine has reached and maintained correct temp.
This will also help to keep your battery charged up fully, as common thought is to allow ten mintues of running to recharge from a start event, and especially if the car has been sitting for a bit, since clock, radio etc drain it slowly.
In your situation, I would run the car up to temp, then pull all of the plugs, and do a compression check. A tester can be had for under 30 dollars at a parts store, or find a friend with one, and they can help you as well. If the results of that are good, be happy, if not so good, then time to do a leakdown test and see where the seal is lost, but that tester is more expensive and needs more time and equipment.
This will also help to keep your battery charged up fully, as common thought is to allow ten mintues of running to recharge from a start event, and especially if the car has been sitting for a bit, since clock, radio etc drain it slowly.
In your situation, I would run the car up to temp, then pull all of the plugs, and do a compression check. A tester can be had for under 30 dollars at a parts store, or find a friend with one, and they can help you as well. If the results of that are good, be happy, if not so good, then time to do a leakdown test and see where the seal is lost, but that tester is more expensive and needs more time and equipment.
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Stew Pidasso
Honda Accord (1990 - 2002)
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Jan 11, 2005 09:37 PM



