93ludeSi

yeah, that sounds right

93ludeSi

bump for a falling thread

Woody lude type s

Hi guys from the UK. It seems to me that you are all trying to change your cars to a lude type S, when Honda have done it for you re. the type S. Do you not have the type S in the USA.If you would like to click on the link http://asia.vtec.net/beystock/honda/preludes/ it will tell everthing you will have to do. Have fun best wishes UK.

93ludeSi

you got that right, We never got the type S over here in the USofA

Variable J

Yeah I replaced my clutch in my 97 base. Thank god I was going to tech school so I was able to use their lift and tranny stand. Also one of my classmates had a special tool to take the half shafts out. Might as well get a lightened flywheel with the money youd save doin it yourself.

ludedude00

bump

CyborgGT

Well, ten years later, would you change any advice from that first page? Or would it simply be a matter of aftermarket upgrades being more refined and easier to come by?

I'm pulling the H22A out of my Accord for a mild all-motor build, I hope for something around 230whp if it's not too emissions-unfriendly - I'd still like to be able to drive it everyday. The overall build is more focused around handling, so I don't want too much power. Just picked up an RSX to cruise around in, so I can afford to be very thorough in my research and take my sweet *** time looking into every single new part as I set aside the money to purchase them. So would you guys have any more up-to-date advice for building a reliable 230-ish horsepower H22 in 2013?

96-h22a1

this. would really like this topic to be brought up again, many of us still have much to learn

CyborgGT

Question: I've got a '97 JDM H22A. Since it's closed deck, do I get the HELM manual for a fourth-gen Prelude, or is it going to matter?

98vtec

a lot of it still applies today but is a bit outdated considering the technology that has happened between now and then.

Stroker motors are now something that can be made reliable. Just takes knowing what to do, understanding clearances and their effect, and a matchup of quality parts. You cant slap a motor together and call it good and expect it to last. Majority of motors that fail are usually because someone was in over their head and was ignorant to things that needed to be looked into.

230whp is also something thats pretty easy to obtain nowadays, depending what dyno you get on. Numbers dont mean everything. you could make 210 on one dyno and another guy make 230 on a different dyno and you guys runs the same times, given all conditions equal.

Build the motor to the scope of what you are wanting to do with it. if its just a mild build, then you dont need something really high compression or a very aggressive cam. an honest mild build coupled with matched bolt ons and tuning can go pretty far.

the information is out there. but educated questions and not just wanting to be spoon fed will bring some of us old timers in and even some new guys to make a good discussion. but asking how to make 230whp is bland and unexciting.

CyborgGT

I'm on a couple other forums and otherwise do a lot of research. It's just that when said research is ten years old, such as on here and in that Kojima Honda Performance book, my inexperience doesn't know how much of the information I can trust, what with parts being discontinued and technology advancing. A LOT has happened in the Honda community in the past ten years.

snobordboy

Honestly, just call or stop by PFI and ask Brent about it, as he has tons of H22 experience. If he is going to tune the engine once it is built, I am sure he would have his recomendations on parts that he knows work well together with Colorado gas and altitude.


<~~~~ actually from Colo.

CyborgGT

Definitely. For now, I've only been buying the things I'll need regardless. Gaskets, bearings, and the like. The real money wouldn't be spent until after I talked to them. I just don't want to go in there not understanding what I'm being told, so I'm trying to get a firmer grasp on how different parts interact with each other from a performance perspective. I've been through an automotive program at a local college (a career choice I afterwards lost interest in), plus what I've done to my Accord so far, so I've got a bit more than the basics down.

98vtec

Dont order bearings yet. Unless you are using acl or that nature which dont always meet the clearance necessary. Ive used acl and honda. Honda has a bigger array of sizes which allow you to really hit your target clearance. But you wont know the size until you do measurements

minilogoguy18

No, it's still a 97 H22, open deck, OBD2, only difference from the US 97 engine is the crank angle sensor placement and the distributor which you can change by getting a US dizzy, oil pump, lower timing gears and crank sensor.

98vtec

Rywire makes a distributor conversion harness

CyborgGT

It's a 97 (stamp under the header, correct?) longblock from HMO, and it came with the OBD1 parts I needed to have swapped into my Accord (kept OBD2 plenum). I drove the swap for about a year and now I've got the engine 100% torn apart at home for this rebuild. From what I've read, open decks seem be an American-only thing. Thanks for the tip on the bearings, 98vtec. I was planning on going with ACL because I figured they can take more of a beating than Honda's, and being aftermaret they would have more size options (I guess I was wrong there), but if you think I'll be fine with OEM... I really don't mind over-doing certain things if it means a longer fatigue life, for me that would be worth saving up for that little bit longer to afford them.