hi everyone, not new here at all but rarely post, mainly i search instead of asking..
but this has really gotten me annoyed...

recap:

-i have an h22 stock internals etc running fine.
during my smsp header installation, the shop removed the radiator and all related, front engine mount, crossmember for clearance.

after everything was put back, i now see an engine code come on IMMEDIATELY as the car turned on. i checked the code and it was 21, vtec solenoid.
car feels laggy not boggy but just laggy. no other codes show up thus far.

course of action taken thus far:

-so i checked the oil pressure sicne i just got an oil change after the header install, and figured it could be a leak or low pressure but all was fine.
-checked connections, all ok, reset ecu by takin out clock fuse. same thing code is there
-decide to check solenoid itself. cleaned the screen though it was fine. checked and everything clicks/works/volatge (a la helms manual). put back on and reset ecu again..same code.
-swapped with someone else's solenoid...they ran fine for a week and i still have the code...
-checked ecu connections...look fine, pins all in etc...

suspicion:

- must be a connection since its on constantly and not when i go to vtec etc?


am i crazy.....?
please help, thank you in advance.


Modified by rheakpl at 3:13 PM 5/17/2007

 

- check your wiring
- take it apart and clean off the screen
- reset your ecu
- get a helms and follow the flowchart...

 

If the ecu is putting out the signal. Next step would be to check continuity from the pin going into ecu then to the other end of the wire before the solenoid.

 

thanks but see above, i have checked the wiring, cleaned the screen and resetted ecu in between each try...used the helms for the voltage etc..

so now im really suspecting something electrical to trigger the code immediately.
mm ok so i guess the only thing is goin deeper with the connection...

thanks md23vtec, i guess i wil pull up the ecu again and test that pin...would you happen to rem which pin(s), i will search for it if anyhting...i think a4 last i remember seeing...is there a proper procedure to checking connectivity bet pin of ecu and wire runnin to it (blow car up if its on haha)?

*hoping suspicions are correct..*
thanks again

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rheakpl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
mm ok so i guess the only thing is goin deeper with the connection...

thanks md23vtec, i guess i wil pull up the ecu again and test that pin...would you happen to rem which pin(s), i will search for it if anyhting...i think a4 last i remember seeing...is there a proper procedure to checking connectivity bet pin of ecu and wire runnin to it (blow car up if its on haha)?

*hoping suspicions are correct..*
thanks again</TD></TR></TABLE>

I wasn't saying check the wire connection. When I said "continuity" I am saying get an ohm meter and check for resistance. This way if you don't have continuity or (ohm reading) you know there is a break in the wire. Very common problem especially if its a swapped car that was hard wired. Just something you might want to try.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by md23vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I wasn't saying check the wire connection. When I said "continuity" I am saying get an ohm meter and check for resistance. This way if you don't have continuity or (ohm reading) you know there is a break in the wire. Very common problem especially if its a swapped car that was hard wired. Just something you might want to try. </TD></TR></TABLE>

sorry meant continuity to see if there is actually an output..
so i should be able to trace that wire to the solenoid itself then?

thanks will search for the right reading.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rheakpl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

sorry meant continuity to see if there is actually an output..
so i should be able to trace that wire to the solenoid itself then?

thanks will search for the right reading.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeap from what I have read you pretty much ruled out the ecu and the soleniod. Next logical step is to check the wire between the two to make sure its good .

 

shpanks...yea will try that next hopefully ill fig it out soon

 

check to see if your oil pan is dented. lol. i went threw that crap before.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmlude5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">check to see if your oil pan is dented. lol. i went threw that crap before.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea i heard when i searched.. =/

but the thing is thats always been the case haha...and keep in mind that the engine light comes on immediately when the car starts

 

If you look in your manual there are flow charts for diagnosing codes. Just follow that and you cant go wrong.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lude98SH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you look in your manual there are flow charts for diagnosing codes. Just follow that and you cant go wrong. </TD></TR></TABLE>

sigh...please see first post...
i have already followed the steps in the helms manual but all all seems good...

it might be a grounding issue someone has brought to my attention as well...hm..

 

I just swapped an H22 into my 91 accord and am having this EXACT same problem.... right down to the immediate CEL code 21 upon turning on the ignition. Did your vtec solenoid have a filter under it? Mine did not. But the vtec pressure switch does. Intresting. Everything on mine appears to check out as well.... Solenoid resistance 18 ohms, continuity between A4 and solenoid....

 

ok so I fixed my problem. It was the wiring. What I did today was pulled the ECU and soldered a wire (14g i believe) to the ECU board pin A4. and ran that directly to the vtec solenoid plug. Also since I was in the guts of the ECU i thought ground may be an issue, so while I was there I soldered another 14g wire to a screw that had continuity to pin A26 (ECU ground). Ran the ground directly to negative car battery terminal. Then I plugged ECU in, snipped old pin A4 wire, and started it up. NO CEL!!!!! Took it out for a drive.........had vtec!.

 

ah cool, accord91lx, glad its working now.

yea been really busy lately so i only just got to test again....
apparently there were NO ohms registering between the 1 pin and the solenoid itself!!

since i put in another working solenoid (and mine into another car which works with no code and has current) it is as suspected, its electrical...so i will tear up everything to ecu and put a wire like you mentioned straight from the pin to the solenoid/plug.

its just weird this happened since the wiring all looks clean from what i see and that my car came with vtec stock and not swapped in...hm...

thanks!

 

Its always the wiring with swaps. Best advice I ever read before I did my first swap was "Check the wiring then double check the wiring and when you're sure everything is all good ...check the wiring again."

 

just a follow-up..

ah hah! it was electrical! wire was dead somehow...no current runnin!
so i had the ecu pin hotwired to the 1 pin connector...code is gone and car is no longer in limp mode again! how odd...must have gotten cut or something...esp since my car came with vtec and not just swapped in...

case closed..onto the next issue haha...thanks everyone.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rheakpl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just a follow-up..

ah hah! it was electrical! wire was dead somehow...no current runnin!
so i had the ecu pin hotwired to the 1 pin connector...code is gone and car is no longer in limp mode again! how odd...must have gotten cut or something...esp since my car came with vtec and not just swapped in...

case closed..onto the next issue haha...thanks everyone.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That was my first guess DAMN I AM GOOD