<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oNeMoBB1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">coo.. thanks alot man</TD></TR></TABLE>

pics man pics! I love seeing these euro R projects coming together like mine did.

It's a bit of work, but it seems like it's all small stuff.

By the way, did you port around the injectors or no? If not, did you test the injectors to make sure they don't spray the manifold? It's just a theory of mine so don't not do it and install it without testing it.

After I ported mine i test fitted and injector and hit it with a cuople of squirts. The cone of the spray had a very narrow angle and it appeared as if i didn't really need to do the porting work in the first place.


Modified by DarkKnight1 at 9:40 AM 1/12/2005

 

this is awesome.

i want to see too!

 

i'm almost done with the install but i just had a weird problem come up. my fuel feed hose is hitting the brass throttle reel and i don't know what to do.

i didn't get to test the injectors becuase i took the manifold to a machine shop right after i bought it and they did the porting. it doesn't look like any fuel stands a chance of hitting the ports now but, about that other problem, yah.. i'm trying to figure out whats the best thing to do. Edit: Did this problem come up for any of you other guys during install?

i'll take pics of the manifold once i'm done.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oNeMoBB1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'm almost done with the install but i just had a weird problem come up. my fuel feed hose is hitting the brass throttle reel and i don't know what to do.</TD></TR></TABLE>

pic?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

pic?</TD></TR></TABLE>yah i can get a pic gimme like 10 mins.
Edit: see how the fuel line is hitting the cable reel--

i was thinking of trying to bend the metal line a little

Modified by oNeMoBB1 at 9:33 PM 1/12/2005


Modified by oNeMoBB1 at 9:34 PM 1/12/2005

 

well i guess i'll try to bend the fuel line but i'll have to order a new one if it breaks

 

Your best bet it to take it to a hose shop and have them make you a 90 deg bend. That will be tough to bend by hand (that much) with kinking it. You maybe able to get away with it. It will be close thou.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oNeMoBB1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yah i can get a pic gimme like 10 mins.
Edit: see how the fuel line is hitting the cable reel--

i was thinking of trying to bend the metal line a little

Modified by oNeMoBB1 at 9:33 PM 1/12/2005


Modified by oNeMoBB1 at 9:34 PM 1/12/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>

Damn, I'd have to agree with turbo, i may try to fabricate my own ****, but i'd take that to a hose shop, i'm guessing it won't be that expensive. People get them done for h22/civics (the **** retentive ones) and the last i heard they were about $40.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oNeMoBB1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Edit: see how the fuel line is hitting the cable reel--

i was thinking of trying to bend the metal line a little

Modified by oNeMoBB1 at 9:33 PM 1/12/2005


Modified by oNeMoBB1 at 9:34 PM 1/12/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>

maybe if you have them just shorten that fuel line, it will give you the clearance you need. i mean shorten the length from the fuel rail to the 90-degree bend; move the bend closer to the manifold and away from the throttle reel.

 

thanks for the ideas.. i'll be working on getting this taken care of today. i guess this is another problem to be worked out for anyone else trying to swap the EuroR into a BB1.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oNeMoBB1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for the ideas.. i'll be working on getting this taken care of today. i guess this is another problem to be worked out for anyone else trying to swap the EuroR into a BB1.</TD></TR></TABLE>

to counter this problem i just fliped the fuel feed hose, so the side that was originally on the fuel filter was on the fuel rail and vice versa..

 

oh **** haha.. that really works? hmm.. well i ended up bending it myself on a vice and reinstalled it earlier. i finished install but only problem is, my car dies right after it starts.. it won't even idle at all. is that a t/b related issue? i thought i would give it a shot and not weld those ports on the t/b. is that why it's just dying after it starts or can that be related to something else.. my car started perfectly before this install. help guys.. i will reward you with lots of pictures once i get this running right haha

 

i know now why the car would just die after starting it.. the 99 oddyssey t/b gasket i was using was blocking the passage to the IAC valve. Right now i'm just using my stock h22a gasket. i can hear an air leak somewhere now, and i think it's coming from the IAC valve, because my idle is fluctuating a little and won't drop down below 1K rpms. I'm going to make a gasket for it and see if that fixes the problem.. if not then i guess you (turbogixxer) were right about needing to weld those two t/b ports.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oNeMoBB1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i know now why the car would just die after starting it.. the 99 oddyssey t/b gasket i was using was blocking the passage to the IAC valve. Right now i'm just using my stock h22a gasket. i can hear an air leak somewhere now, and i think it's coming from the IAC valve, because my idle is fluctuating a little and won't drop down below 1K rpms. I'm going to make a gasket for it and see if that fixes the problem.. if not then i guess you (turbogixxer) were right about needing to weld those two t/b ports.</TD></TR></TABLE>

it was my tb, and yes, you will have to block them. I used an ITR gasket and it fit eveyrthing up perfectly, 'cept those two ports. Take to a welder, it'll cost you $20-$40 max. and it'll take him a good 5 minutes to do it.

 

k i'm going to have those ports welded then.. do i need to have them weld that circular shaped opening before the throttle plate too?

 

The top most lines is where I had mine welded too. It's much easier to see with an ITR tb gasket, but you get the idea.

 

PLEASE NOTE: They should not be filled in, the welder just has to build a bead parallel to the gasket mating surface.

 

i tried getting it done today but nobody was open that does TIG welding for aluminum so i have to wait pos lol.. anyways i still don't understand why it causes an air leak if it didn't on my stock manifold (nearly identical mating surface as the EuroR manifold). but the air leak definitly sounds like its coming from my iac valve. right now it's mated to the custom plate via the stock double-o-ring rubber gasket.

Edit: I just thought about something.. if you guys read junbb1's writeup, and you probably did, you know that he doesn't mention welding any ports shut. here's what he said about the stock t/b: <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by junbb1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the stock t-body does not true up to the manifold so the oddessey gasket blocks off one of the holes that the stock gasket wont and the other port that slightly hangs over and will cause a huge vacum leak. it is a space about 1mm by 1mm. i used some jb weld to cover this space.</TD></TR></TABLE>

So by just covering that small space that overhangs on the t/b with some jb weld and a 99 oddessey gasket is sufficient, instead of taking it to a welder and spend $40. if he didn't have to, why would you or I have an air leak with ours? thats what confuses me.


Modified by oNeMoBB1 at 10:54 PM 1/14/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes, you can try to JBweld it, but it is not worth it. The welding will cost you max of $40, that is max. </TD></TR></TABLE>

This is me earlier in the thread. I tried to JBweld Darkknight's. I did not like it. I would like to know that the welding will hold, then use JB weld. It is up to you.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oNeMoBB1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you know that he doesn't mention welding any ports shut.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> PLEASE NOTE: They should not be filled in, the welder just has to build a bead parallel to the gasket mating surface. </TD></TR></TABLE>

No welding it shut, you just have to "extend" the gasket mating surface.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oNeMoBB1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> if he didn't have to</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes he did.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by junbb1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...will cause a huge vacum leak. it is a space about 1mm by 1mm. i used some jb weld to cover this space</TD></TR></TABLE>


Remember, welding it is always better then epoxying it.

 

hmm im wondering if this is where my idleing problem is coming from

i have the euro r mani and just slapped the stock TB on and i am also using an aem ems to tune i thought my idle issue was either due to me not knowing the aem software or aleaky iac adapter plate.

it kinda funny if i set iac duty ot 0% ie the iac is fully closed , i get a 1200 rpm idle, im going to have to look into this..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prelittlelude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmm im wondering if this is where my idleing problem is coming from

i have the euro r mani and just slapped the stock TB on and i am also using an aem ems to tune i thought my idle issue was either due to me not knowing the aem software or aleaky iac adapter plate.

it kinda funny if i set iac duty ot 0% ie the iac is fully closed , i get a 1200 rpm idle, im going to have to look into this.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'll would try to and get some pics up of my manifold and the TB plate I had made but its in the car . I had the same problem but the vacum leak was so big it shot to 5000 rpm at idle.

 

i'm happy to report that my car is idling fine now i just cut out some small pieces of metal to extend the gasket mating surface and jb welded them in place-double coated

i should have pics up tomorrow night. btw i had to make a temporary bracket to hold the throttle cable because it takes at least a month to get the EuroR bracket from Japan also my EGR is just chillin in my engine.. till i figure out what to do with it. can't wait to get hondata i just hope my a/f ratio is running safe enough to hit VTEC.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oNeMoBB1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'm happy to report that my car is idling fine now i just cut out some small pieces of metal to extend the gasket mating surface and jb welded them in place-double coated

i should have pics up tomorrow night. btw i had to make a temporary bracket to hold the throttle cable because it takes at least a month to get the EuroR bracket from Japan also my EGR is just chillin in my engine.. till i figure out what to do with it. can't wait to get hondata i just hope my a/f ratio is running safe enough to hit VTEC.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good to hear. You should go with uberdata on a p28. I just got my car street tuned using uberdata it feels way better then my vafc dyno tune with the p13.The full throttle launch and check engine light shift light are cool features. I got everything done for about what i sold my vafc for.

 

here's my finished install.. looks a little clutered i know.. but the EGR stuff will be deleted once i get ecu tuning with my P72. Uberdata is not a bad idea. I hope i can find someone that can tune it here in SoCali. I also wanted to add that turning the fuel feed line around like O.E.P. mentioned does not work on a 4th gen.. i tried and it's actually worse. Anyways, I hope this post clarified some of the more confusing parts of the install laters

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oNeMoBB1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anyways, I hope this post clarified some of the more confusing parts of the install</TD></TR></TABLE>

Confusing? I spelled it out for you