cleaned IAC now idles low and stalls, worse than before
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 109
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From: colorado springs, CO, United States
Hey guys,
I did a lot of research before starting this project, so please read in full w/out judgement.
I have had a stalling problem that started recently as I pull up to lights and engage the clutch, rpms would drop and the car would stall or come very close to it. I replaced the IAT because it was throwing a code, and that problem slowed down a lot.
I then decided to clean my egr which was filthy. After I cleaned it and reinstalled, the problem was almost fixed (I would say 85%. I figured while I am working on this issue, I may as well clean the IAC and call it a day. Removed and cleaned it no problem, reinstalled and started the lude up.
The idle was smooth and perfect with no shaking at 750-800ish before I removed and cleaned the IAC. After, the rpms were down to 500-600 and very rough idle, prone to stall very often. I reset the ecu and figured maybe it needs to realign, or relearn but it did not seem to help.
My first guess was I should have left the iac off to air dry 20 min or so instead of instantly reinstalling. I checked all the lines multiple times to see if I caused a vacuum leak somewhere by mistake and nothing. I did some more research and decided a gasket may be the answer (it did not have one on when I removed it but it was mentioned to replace before reinstalled on the forums).
Couldn't find the gasket so as brilliant as I am, I decided to get some gasket maker. Basically the gasket maker gunked up the entire iac and screen causing more harm than the original carbon before cleaning. I did my best to clean it out and made a tear in the screen by accident.
I am now waiting for it to dry and will be reinstalling it to see what happens. I am selling my car and I wanted it to be right for the person who buys it so he/she doesn't have to deal with any small issues. Any help would greatly be appreciated.
I did a lot of research before starting this project, so please read in full w/out judgement.
I have had a stalling problem that started recently as I pull up to lights and engage the clutch, rpms would drop and the car would stall or come very close to it. I replaced the IAT because it was throwing a code, and that problem slowed down a lot.
I then decided to clean my egr which was filthy. After I cleaned it and reinstalled, the problem was almost fixed (I would say 85%. I figured while I am working on this issue, I may as well clean the IAC and call it a day. Removed and cleaned it no problem, reinstalled and started the lude up.
The idle was smooth and perfect with no shaking at 750-800ish before I removed and cleaned the IAC. After, the rpms were down to 500-600 and very rough idle, prone to stall very often. I reset the ecu and figured maybe it needs to realign, or relearn but it did not seem to help.
My first guess was I should have left the iac off to air dry 20 min or so instead of instantly reinstalling. I checked all the lines multiple times to see if I caused a vacuum leak somewhere by mistake and nothing. I did some more research and decided a gasket may be the answer (it did not have one on when I removed it but it was mentioned to replace before reinstalled on the forums).
Couldn't find the gasket so as brilliant as I am, I decided to get some gasket maker. Basically the gasket maker gunked up the entire iac and screen causing more harm than the original carbon before cleaning. I did my best to clean it out and made a tear in the screen by accident.
I am now waiting for it to dry and will be reinstalling it to see what happens. I am selling my car and I wanted it to be right for the person who buys it so he/she doesn't have to deal with any small issues. Any help would greatly be appreciated.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 109
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From: colorado springs, CO, United States
update: No change after letting it dry 30 min.
I loosened the bolts on the iac a little to create a purposeful vacuum;air leek and viola, perfect idle.
Test drove it and everything was great, perfect idle, no stall out, small rpm drop when engaging clutch towards a light like it used to be.
I have no idea why this worked being that it had no gasket before i cleaned it. I will now be ordering the gasket for it, should that work? If not I will put a washer in between the iac to keep that vacuum leak permanent.
Any thoughts or drawbacks to this? Did not seem to effect power or drivability at all.
I loosened the bolts on the iac a little to create a purposeful vacuum;air leek and viola, perfect idle.
Test drove it and everything was great, perfect idle, no stall out, small rpm drop when engaging clutch towards a light like it used to be.
I have no idea why this worked being that it had no gasket before i cleaned it. I will now be ordering the gasket for it, should that work? If not I will put a washer in between the iac to keep that vacuum leak permanent.
Any thoughts or drawbacks to this? Did not seem to effect power or drivability at all.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
From: colorado springs, CO, United States
yes, I plugged it back in, I double checked everything. I kept looking for the idle adjust screw, but I could not find it anywhere on the throttle body. Then I heard someone mention there is no idle adjust because the ecu does it automatically
Have you bypassed the coolant lines for the IACV? if not, you probably have a little air in the cooling system from the removal and replacement of the IACV. Try bleeding the system and see what happens. How's the FITV working?
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 109
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From: colorado springs, CO, United States
Its a 2000. I guessed the same thing about the air in the coolant, I didn't have anything to dump the coolant into, but I will do that next. I did not do the bypass, but I bet the coolant issue is the key. Does the 5th gen have an FITV? If so, the fast idle works great regardless.
Thanks
Thanks
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Yes it does, all the H motors do if Im not mistaken. Hopefully the bleed does it because I have no other ideas after that lol
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 109
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From: colorado springs, CO, United States
Problem solved. Before buying a new one, I thought about it for a second. If the car runs fine when you initiate the air leak right at the iac, then the iac is blocking the air completely. I took off the iac to pull it apart and see if there was anything I could do. Upon looking at the screen in better lighting I saw how the gasket seal goop was still there and clogging the entire unit.
The gunk actually slipped past the screen and you couldn't see the entire hole was plugged. I just took a screw driver and removed everything, screen and all.
I put it back together an viola, running/idling better than ever. No stalling approaching lights/depressing the clutch. I was just about to try the coolant and then order a new iac.
I do have one question however, what does the screen on the IAC do? What is it filtering and is it a big deal to have this screen removed.
Thanks again
The gunk actually slipped past the screen and you couldn't see the entire hole was plugged. I just took a screw driver and removed everything, screen and all.
I put it back together an viola, running/idling better than ever. No stalling approaching lights/depressing the clutch. I was just about to try the coolant and then order a new iac.
I do have one question however, what does the screen on the IAC do? What is it filtering and is it a big deal to have this screen removed.
Thanks again
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