Check Engine Light on when cold
I have a 2000 base Prelude and my check engine light pretty much stays on ALL winter long. It doesn't come on all summer but as soon as it hits 40 or so degrees it comes on and basicly doesnt go off.
I had Auto Zone scan it and it showed these codes
Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor
Cylider 1,2,3,4 misfire
Fuel bank rich
I talked to a mechanic that i work with and he said to replace the MAP sensor, i did that and it did not help. The car has had a NEW cap, rotor, plugs and wires put on it and the timing has been checked and it was right. What could possibly be the probem, it is getting pretty annoying. Any help would be appriciated
Thanks.
The mods on the car are
AEM cold air intake
DC header
Thermal r&d exhaust
AEM fuel rail
AEM pulleys
AEM cam gears (intake +2 exhaust-5)
type s cams
Centerforce DFX clutch
Denso Iridium plugs
NGK plug wires
I had Auto Zone scan it and it showed these codes
Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor
Cylider 1,2,3,4 misfire
Fuel bank rich
I talked to a mechanic that i work with and he said to replace the MAP sensor, i did that and it did not help. The car has had a NEW cap, rotor, plugs and wires put on it and the timing has been checked and it was right. What could possibly be the probem, it is getting pretty annoying. Any help would be appriciated
Thanks.
The mods on the car are
AEM cold air intake
DC header
Thermal r&d exhaust
AEM fuel rail
AEM pulleys
AEM cam gears (intake +2 exhaust-5)
type s cams
Centerforce DFX clutch
Denso Iridium plugs
NGK plug wires
perfectly fine, just like nothing was wrong. but i dont know if it has the same amount of power or not because i drive it easy when the light is on.
kinda random, but i wonder if you set your cam gears back to 0,0 if your misfires would go away. What did he use as a deteminant to figure out thats where they needed to be set?
He did another prelude with pretty much the same parts as mine and tuned it on i dyno, so he just set mine at the same settings he used on the other car...but then again that prelude got a rod through the block not long after, but mine has had that setup for 2 1/2 years or so and the check engine light didnt come on at all the first year, but last winter and this winter it is.
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all cars are different FYI. Never base tuning points off other cars, especially when you are dealing with advancing or retarding the timing. The only way to be accurate is if you yourself get on a dyno and find out where the best place is. Personally i would set them back to 0 if it were me. but thats just my opinion.
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