well, after some searching here, and finding that cel 9 is sometimes a distributor problem, i replaced the distributor with a dist. king unit, and had it timed. had the CEL cleared and drove around, and it was fine for a couple of days.

fired her up this morning, and the CEL was back. same code. so i'm assuming that it's actually the TDC sensor. some snooping around in my helms (chapter 6 page 21) shows the process for replacing a TDC/CKP sensor. and it's not pretty. It involves removing the timing balancer belt and the timing balancer pulley (along with the alternator belt, alternator, and dipstick).

my question is, is it worth it to go through all this trouble just to replace the sensors? or should i go ahead and get the timing belt/water pump/tensioner replaced as long as i'm down there? 62,000 mi on a base 01.

tks.

 

i got the same code 9, and im getting ready to run 2 direct wires from the dizzy to the ECU, think they may cut one upon head installation.

I hope to **** i dont have to do what your saying to fix this. If it were the TDC or the crank sensor, it would throw the according CEL. I dunno man, did you double check all your wires and meter the 2 at the female connector on the ECU ? If you did and you didnt get a reading, that means you cut an open wire somewhere from the dizzy back.

This damn code is a pain in the *** isnt it ?

 

About 2 months after I got my car the cel came up code 9 and I just replaced the distributor with a distributor king replacement and it took away the code, but my motor would tick upon start up for the first few minutes. But before I could get that solved someone stole my car.

 

You should read the manual. Code 9 is CYP...it's in the distributor...you must have a wiring problem.

 

I need to know the year and model of your prelude to help you.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Prolink &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I need to know the year and model of your prelude to help you.</TD></TR></TABLE>

62,000 mi on a base 01.

Hey buddy I hope you can help him better than the attention you paid to his post ?

 

Code 9 diagnostic procedures for 5th gen

1. With ignition off, disconnect four pin distributor connector located in front of the distributor.

2. On the male side of the connection, with the locking tab at the top, check resistance between the right upper(yellow wire) and right lower(black wire) pins. Resistance should be between 260-460 Ohms. If resistance is good go to next step, if not replace distributor.

3. Check continuity between body ground and the right upper pin and between body ground and right lower pin. If you have continuity on either or both you need to replace the distributor. If you have no continuity on either pin and body ground go to next step.

4. Reconnect the distributor connector and disconnect the blue connector of the ecu located under the passanger's side foot rest. Measure resistance between pin 4 and 14 (yellow and black wire). you should get the same resistance as in step 2. If you do go to the next step. If you don't, you have a open in the wiring between the ecu and the distributor. Find the open and repair wiring.

5. Check continuity between pin 4 of the blue connector of the ecu and body ground. If you have continuity, you have a short in the yellow wire between the ecu and the distributor. If no continuity, replace the ecu...

Hope this helps.....



Modified by Prolink at 12:07 PM 10/24/2004

 

I've got a 91 prelude and the ECU light blinks 9 times and I get a engine light in the mornings when the engine is cold. I talked to my mechanic and he said to change the distributor. Anyone have any insight on 91 preludes and this nagging issue. I've go to smog this car soon.

 

Had the same code (93 H23) and code 8 randomly, went through swapping 2 distributors in and out (and the guts to each one back and forth), ended up that the bolt that hold the cam gear to the camshaft was a little loose (3/4 of a turn). Vibration sent down the camshaft tripped the codes. IMO, make sure everything else is tight and OK before spending $$$$$$$$ on things that arent the problem (speaking from experience)

Kevin

 

on that '91, check to make sure your CYP sensor isn't separate from the distributor. On our '88, the sensor is on the exhaust cam, while the distributor is on the intake cam. We replaced our faulty CYP sensor without touching the distributor.

Basically if there is a sensor on the exhaust cam - you have a separate distributor and cylinder position sensor.
Our error code 9 also only popped up at certain times.

 

heres another weird symptom of mine.

I can start the car, and hold her steady at 3K (cant move my car till its at full temp) and the CEL for the code 9 wont come on till i let off the throttle and let it idle. Im totaly fookin stumped. im gonna try the wire thing this weekend, if that dont work, i got an extra dizzy ill try.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bad-monkey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">(along with the alternator belt, alternator, and dipstick).
</TD></TR></TABLE>If you end up removing the dipstick could u tell me what size bolt holds the dipstick to the block? Mines missing...

 

The bolt that holds the dipstick to the head is a 10mm bolt,

 

do you know about how long?

 

on the 5th gen's the ckp/tdc sensors are located in the timing cover. with over 60k I would suggest replacing the belts and pump. it makes no sense not to since you are right there. people need to read the post before responding

 

about 3/8"

 

remember to change the autotensioner too if you are changin the timing belt

 

Still shining bright. Trying to find a way to test ECU's but the immobilizer is issue is a bit of a monkey wrench. Gonna try and throw a p72 in from my friend's 96 gsr and see if it throws the same code.

Also, whenever i clear the code using a scanner, or Reset the ECU, it takes around 2.5 days for the light to pop on again. Is this how long it takes for the ECU to figure it out? or could it be the sensor working for a while, and then crapping out?

also, is the distributor the end all of the CYP sensor system? is there anything in the head that feeds the sensors? is the CYP sensor just based on the dist's knowledge of where TDC as it's timed to the engine?

i hate this thing, what a pain in the ***.

 

is the crank fluctuation sensor the same as the crank position sensor?

 

ok, so i got my hands on a 97 USDM H22 P5M ecu, got it reprogrammed for ~$75 @ honda of pasadena, and installed it today.

so far so good, though the CEL usually takes a couple of days to come on whenever the ECU is reset. So i'm not positive that the situation is fixed just yet.

however, the idle is jumpy. 1000-1500 when the car's warmed up. not sure what that's all about.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by daveedd357 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">on the 5th gen's the ckp/tdc sensors are located in the timing cover. with over 60k I would suggest replacing the belts and pump. it makes no sense not to since you are right there. people need to read the post before responding</TD></TR></TABLE>


Thank You, finally a correct anwser to this question, Not to sound like a *** but if you have not done one yourself or own a different Gen Prelude don't anwser the question at all if you don't know the correct anwser.