emgjsdk1

i replaced the slave cylinder and clutch master cylinder, and yes i did bench bleed the cmc, but the clutch pedal still has no pressure after 3 days of bleeding and pumping, the pedal still wont return on its own and has no pressure.
bleeding method:
1-pump clutch 5-20 times
2-hold clutch pedal down
3-open bleeder w/ hose connected and in a container of brake fluid
4-pump clutch pedal
5-close the bleeder valve

tried every method i could find online and in searches but nothing works, half the time fluid dosent even come out of the bleeder.
someone help please.

BoostdKseries

iTrader: (2)

I had a similar problem and i just kept trying to bleed it for about an hour and the pedal finally starting returning by itself... ( I replaced the slave and the clutchmaster)

godslayer

I personally believe "bench bleeding" to be a complete waste of time but to each thier own.

I don't understand why you have some seemingly unnecessary steps in there. You seem to be trying to combine two different methods of hydraulic bleeding to achieve some "super-bleeding" method that doesn't exist.

When using the submerged hose method of bleeding your steps 1 & 2 are 100% a waste of time. The reason you have a sealed hose submerged in brake fluid is so when you let up on the pedal you pull fluid back in and not air. This is how I have always done it and I've NEVER had a problem with air (soft pedal/etc):

1-connect hose to slave & submerge end in clean fluid
2-remove master cylinder reservoir cover
3-open bleeder on slave
4-pump clutch pedal 3 or 4 times
5-check & refill master reservoir. DO NOT LET THE RESERVOIR GO EMPTY.

(steps 4 & 5 work better with a buddy...you keep the fluid filled & check for air while your buddy keeps pumping the pedal....it'll be completely flushed & bled in minutes)

6-when you are no longer pushing air through the hose you can safely close the bleeder valve on the slave. If you have a buddy helping you you can keep the pedal depressed to the floor while you close the bleeder. This is NOT necessary but gives some people peace of the mind.
7-check & refill the master reservoir again
8-pump the clutch pedal for a minute or so to rebuild pressure
9-check & refill the master reservoir yet again as you've probably pushed some fluid a little further down the line.
10-put cover back on master reservoir.
11-??
12-Profit

If you bleed it correctly and you still have air you may very well have a loose connection at one of the fittings or some other form of air leak. It's supposed to be a sealed system.

emgjsdk1

Iv tried this at least 10 times already, exactly in order of what you said. And the clutch pedal still wont return on its own (no pressure). We exchanged the master cylinder today so its probably not the problem. The slave cylinder had a sticker on the bag that said "must be bench bled". Ive never heard of doing this and i never have done it on the slave cylinders Iv installed and not had a problem. Whats bench bleeding a slave cylinder? I searched...

BoostdKseries

iTrader: (2)

just keep doing it for literally 20 minutes or so and it will start working. i had a problem on my lude. it just takes a little while..

emgjsdk1

we got about 4+ hours in it.
we replaced the master cylinder on my civic today by the same procedure and all worked fine. was done in about 40min. gay prelude

godslayer

Again, it's supposed to be a completely sealed system so if you have no pedal pressure there's one of two things happening:

1) You're not bleeding it right even when you think you are.

-or-

2) There's an air leak somewhere that you're not seeing.

emgjsdk1

ok well there is a valve on the top of the trans, it has a banjo fitting on a hose leading back to the firewall, and changes into hardline to the master cylinder. i decided to loosen the bolt on the top of the banjo line, and the bolt has a bleeder hole in it. My question is what is this valve? The transmission looks a little dirty around this thing, it may be the problem.

godslayer

Bleeder hole? Banjo bolts do NOT have "bleeder holes". Banjo bolts have passages/orfices to allow a fluid to pass through the bolt into a union connected to a hose or pipe. Banjo bolts required crush washers on both sides to create a leak proof seal and shouldn't be used to attempt to purge air.



I can only assume you mean item number 13 (just north east of the slave cylinder). That's just a junction point to go from tube to hose. There's not much that could go wrong with that junction unless it's cracked or damaged. Assuming it's in good condition yet I'd start by replacing the crush washers on both sides of the banjo bolt & retorquing it back to spec (I'd guess 10mm washers but I'm not promising anything). If that junction is damaged it'll cost you about $30 shipped from Majestic Honda for a new one. Also check the ends of the hoses & flare fittings to make sure you're not leaking there. It can be a pain in the *** if it's a leaking flare fitting as you'd likely have to remove the entire section of hard pipe to be able to get it out & reflare.

edit: I guess you could be talking about the damper too? I don't remember if there is a bleeder valve up there or not but this piece could be removed if you really wanted to.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-prelude-4/clutch-question-clutch-damper-replacement-removal-1210919/