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Thanks for the info and getting the part number. I'm not too crazy about the hose I used.
I used the OEM CRX SI cable in mine and it worked well. Maybe it was a little too long or short, IDK but it worked fine. The car is in pieces right now so I cannot tell.
@1991_crxsi and anyone else looking for correct hoses for h2b swap into ef, this is tried and true. Upper hose: Gates 21763 trim to fit, lower hose: 22921 direct fit. No kinks, fits perfectly over h22 water necks. This way, QSD gooseneck not required, and retain OEM water neck and no leakage problems.
@1991_crxsi and anyone else looking for correct hoses for h2b swap into ef, this is tried and true. Upper hose: Gates 21763 trim to fit, lower hose: 22921 direct fit. No kinks, fits perfectly over h22 water necks. This way, QSD gooseneck not required, and retain OEM water neck and no leakage problems.
Little update: more parts came today, prepped the EX spindle, hopefully install this week. Any recommendations for slicks sizing? Keep in mind with the brake upgrade, I don't think 13s will fit. Thanks.
12 in slim puller fan, ARP extended studs (required for slicks) and open ended lug nuts.
Prepped, cleaned, lubed, ready for new bearings, rotors, and pads.
wow, sick build, I have a h22a4 long block that has been sitting in my garage for over a year, I plan on going H2b, this post has gave me an idea on what I need. Thank You and Keep it up!!
Since I had to extend the RF wires to reach the lights, I decided to make a sub-harness for each side of the fenders. These wires originally were a part of the main harness, and it got quite messy. With the new sub-harness, I could use the OEM grommet to protect the wires passing through the frame to the fender and I can quickly disconnect each side for easy service. Every connections were crimped, heat shrunk, and use OEM pins and connections.
See pictures, any comments or questions happily welcome. RF done, LF next. It takes A LOT of time to make each connections, twisted each strand, and labeling which goes where. Here is the final product.
Each connector cleaned, and the strands twisted for a clean look.
Where I extended the wires, I crimped, pulled to test the strength of the connections, then heat shrunk.
Then I connected each wires to OEM pins.
Example of one harness within the sub-harness. In the case, this is the bumper light wiring.
Here is the corner light connections.
Since the headlight connections will be visible, a little extra addition to please the eyes.
Completed RF sub-harness. This will plug into the main harness.
Seriously JHPUSA, I ordered ONE piece and you got it wrong. Hope this will be fixed soon so I can complete my fuel setup. Still waiting on ChaseBay so I cleaned my dash; maybe I'm biased but old school Honda dash looks a million times better than newer generation Hondas with all the new gadgets and doodads (my daily is a 2016 Accord Sport). I LOVE LOVE LOVE the simple, clean look of the EF Civic dash. I was lucky with this one, not a scratch or crack. It is gutted underneath, but still retain the OEM look. I'm contemplating whether or not to put the heater controls back in and put the gauges where the radio delete plate is, or get a carbon fiber plate to fill the heater control and mount the gauges there. Opinion? Any recommendations for gauges? Brands?
Odyssey Extreme PC680 and PWJDM Battery relocation kit. EF kits come with carbon fiber cover.
Factory holes, no drilling required. All hardware included for a quick and painless install.
Also, I sent my ecu to Jeremy at RedZone Performance for s300 install with basemap. He can set me up once the car is running via wifi at home before I drive an hour for dyno tune. Sweet.
Holy hell, after 5 months of waiting, my Chasebay harness finally came. Jeremy at Redzone came through with the s300. All that's left before I fire her up for the first time in the 3 yr long build is this final harness install. Please refer to pictures as I have a few questions. Thanks guys.
I should have paid extra to have the plugs labeled. This will not be fun.
Question, where does that white connector plug into? Those 2 loose pins on top? And there are 5 wires that needs to be spliced into what? No instructions came of course. FML.
So after fiddling with the Chasebay harness, it is finally done. There was a problem with brand new yet dead RDX injectors so I decided to install Injector Dynamics 1000cc and be done with it. Jeremy of Redzone Performace hooked me up with custom basemap by connecting to my s300 via wifi and got it running. No cel, no funky idle, smooth and drives well. He disable VTEC until I can get it tuned, so I'll have to drive like a grandma until it is tuned. Exhaust on the way, consisting of KTeller 3" mandrel bent tubing, Vibrant Ultra-quiet resonator and Vibrant flat black muffler. Right now it is running open header, and it sounds like a v8. Here is a clip of first start up.
Don't mind the orange tubing and messy engine bay, still needs to clean up and tuck wiring, and install catch can. More pics to come and video of dyno pulls and track runs.
3" stainless steel, mandrel bent KTeller exhaust with Vibrant ultra quiet resonator and universal flat black muffler.
Update: exhaust parts came in along with new intake setup. I'll be having the exhaust welded on tomorrow and off to the dyno as soon as I get an appointment. Track nights every Wednesday, so I'll be excited to see what it'll run. I wanna get a baseline before building the motor and suspension.
3 inch stainless steel, mandrel bend EF kit from KTeller. 3.5 silicon tubing with Vstack.
Well, it's tuned, and it made way more power than I expected. Max hp 215.28, torque 170.53. It spins all the way to 3rd, and when VTEC kicks, well, you get the picture. Not bad considering the motor is internally stock with stock intake manifold and throttle body. Big shout out to Jeremy and Gaythe at Redzone Performance for a great tune. They're good people, highly recommended.
04-08-2016, 09:30 AM
Re: When H met B.
