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What's up guys! First time posting on here, although I've been digging on here for years for info (and some misinfo). I decided to share with you all my current project and hoping to get some good opinions, advice, and general "car talks".
Background: Before becoming a nurse, I worked at an auto shop. One day, I saw a beautiful red EF hatch sitting in the containment yard out back. I knew I had to have her. She belonged to my co-worker's mom, who, unfortunately due to old age, can no longer drive it. Cash and a handshake later, she was mine! She was every car guy's dream: virgin and unmolested. She did not have any aftermarket upgrades besides a CD player. I took her home, and here starts my love story!
She was gentle and soft, in the form of an automatic d15b2. Well, this is not going to cut it. I hate to touch her in ways Honda engineers never intended to, but it's a shame, almost sinful, to let her get picked on by riced out Hondas and American muscle. She needed to grow up, needed to transform, needed to become a woman. Enter puberty.
Her new transplant.
First things first: a girl gotta have her shoes. Picked up a set of clean LS mesh, wrapped them in new rubber, and called in a day.
Sneak peek.
1.5 automatic, meet h2b. This is the first chapter of our book, stay tuned, many more adventures, and parts, to come.
Last edited by GodblessEMS; 04-03-2015 at 06:03 PM.
^^Thank you sir! Here's my first question, guess I don't waste anytime huh? I'm going to the junkyard today after work. Just to clarify, I need DA midshaft, axles, and T bracket, right? Will DA axles work with DX hubs?
My friend did an h22 swap in a 91 crx si. He said it was fun to go straight, but on turns it would skid. The crx and the hatches have like no weight in the back. Other than that it's like a 13 second car with just the swap.
My friend did an h22 swap in a 91 crx si. He said it was fun to go straight, but on turns it would skid. The crx and the hatches have like no weight in the back. Other than that it's like a 13 second car with just the swap.
I've heard this nonsense before. It should handle just about the same as a B swap... which was a stock option in Japan. Your friend needs a better suspension/properly adjusted suspension.
TO answer OP's questions, you need exactly the same axles, halfshaft, etc. as you would for a regular B swap. Basically the H2B kit allows you to keep everything from a normal B swap on the transmission side of things. Also with QSD, you use their bracket and whatever engine mount you would have normally used with the B swap.
UPDATE: So I decided to give myself a month deadline to get this car running and head down to the track to see what she runs. No time to waste!
PHASE ONE: gather parts.
Went to junkyard today for some parts needed for the transplant.
Here is the donor car. RIP white DA.
Parts: complete rear disc conversion, halfshaft, T-bracket, injector resistor box, prop valve, manual pedal assembly (off EF HB), 92-2000 D series alternator bracket to run with "The Alternative" QSD kit.
Here is the progress on the motor: Complete KS Tuned balance shaft removal kit with crank spacer, new water pump and timing belt, new tensioner pulley, new O-rings and gaskets. This will be fitted with Euro-R single pulley.
Stock intake manifold with EGR, IAC, and FITV delete, stock injector, fuel rail and regulator,mated to head with thermal gasket.
Parts coming monday: QSD EF h2b kit, QSD hood prop, QSD alternator relocator, Action 1MS clutch, heat shrink, braided sleeve for wire tuck, Innovative mounts 85A, Innovative EF B-series shift linkage.
STAY TUNED!!!
I've heard this nonsense before. It should handle just about the same as a B swap... which was a stock option in Japan. Your friend needs a better suspension/properly adjusted suspension.
TO answer OP's questions, you need exactly the same axles, halfshaft, etc. as you would for a regular B swap. Basically the H2B kit allows you to keep everything from a normal B swap on the transmission side of things. Also with QSD, you use their bracket and whatever engine mount you would have normally used with the B swap.
Well its about 100 lbs heavier than the b series swaps. He did use the h series tranny, which Idk might be heavier than a b series. 100 lbs might not sound like much of a difference but in these weight-less cars, it is.
When the op finishes the swap, it'd be nice for him to try and corner faster than 15mph, in a non populated road, and see if the car corners normally or if it handles weird.
for everyone complaining about weight of an H, think about this, you gain atleast half of that when you boost a car. turbo parts are not heavy parts. atleast my car gained 50 pounds when i boosted it
Well its about 100 lbs heavier than the b series swaps. He did use the h series tranny, which Idk might be heavier than a b series. 100 lbs might not sound like much of a difference but in these weight-less cars, it is.
When the op finishes the swap, it'd be nice for him to try and corner faster than 15mph, in a non populated road, and see if the car corners normally or if it handles weird.
No, it is only about 35-50lbs heavier depending on bolt-ons between the compared swaps. That is easily compensated for with a decent suspension.
Putting an H series motor is not gonna upset the balance of the car like you all make it out to be...... geez. It ain't like he's stuffing a damn big block v8 up in there, up in there!
Add an Ebay short ram intake on the list, it'll free up alot of horsepower from that H22.
Do you guys speak from experience or just forum information? I never did an h22 into EF chassis, so I'm only stating the problems that my friend had. I do agree that the right stiffness in suspension would help, I think my friend was using either tokico blues or stock si suspension.
Can we not turn this into a pissing contest about the weight of the H22?
It is heavier. There is a list with engine weights somewhere online. I looked into it, and it wasn't that big of a deal. How much does your battery weigh?
In the end, I absolutely LOVE my H2B EF.
OP if you need any tips, PM me.
By the way, you WILL need to delete balance shafts (which you did )
You need to move the alternator inwards about 1/2"
I used Innovative's alternator relocation kit for this.
Run a single belt pulley, I had an accord pulley shaved down to a single pulley. It works fine.
You will have very little crank pulley clearance. Use stiff mounts so the pulley doesn't hit the frame. I used grey innovative B series mounts.
I did not have to hammer my frame rail. Maybe a tiny bit to clear the alternator pulley... but nothing major. No pockets cut or anything.
What are you doing for a hydro clutch? Is this an LSD transmission?
Good to hear you're running h2b. Did you ever take it to the track? Curious as to what I can expect. Good tips, I'm running QSD Alternator relocation, along with 85A innovative mounts, so this beast is not moving anywhere. I'm also running Accord Euro-R single crank pulley so clearance won't be an issue. As for the transmission, I'm using 4.4 FD LSD ITR, with Hush22 full cable to hydro conversion. If you have any tips, feel free to chime in.
One of the magazines did a comparison on engine weights...it did not turn out to be a large difference at all. It pretty much shut the urban myth up about H's not being able to corner well.
Really looking forward to the coming posts and updates! Just don't make the next update 2 years from now lol.
In for this build OP. Good luck. Lots of info here and in the hybrid section.
FYI the KStuned crank pulley spacer is not going to work with your Euro R pulley. Check out the H2B FAQ in link below and order the McMaster spacer. If you order it a 1/8" wider you can also shave another 1/8" of the crank pulley. All about clearance Clarence.
I have the Hush22 conversion as well. Make sure the piston is straight and remember that you can turn the master cylinder so that the nipple has more clearance if you like. They advertise it as being a simple bolt-in, but mine required a little finagling. It was minimal so it could have just been a slight variation with my car. Also, utilizing a vacuum to bleed the fluid was pretty much essential to get my unit to bleed correctly. One more thing, you may need to weld in a pedal stop. I have the Hush22 kit with the Wilwood MC, and I had to do it. There was not sufficient adjustment to prevent the slave from overextending without adding one.
Originally Posted by Bently_Coop
All about clearance Clarence.
Roger Roger, but be sure to check your vector Victor.
Mini update: After an 8 hour-day of work, and 3 straight 12 hour shifts ahead, I thought I throw in a little update. Goodies came today, and I was able to start on my engine harness tuck. As soon as the QSD kit come this week, I will start mocking and mating the tranny to the long block. Guys that have experience with h2b, what is the best tool to shave the block for axle clearance? I don't have compressed air at home, so I'm stuck with electricity. I have the option of taking the motor to work with compressed air, but that's a hassle, and reserved for last resort. Anyways, here are some pics of the goodies and mock up of harness. Enjoy!
Injector clips
Mock up
THANK YOU to all those that have given advice, I appreciate it. Quick poll: which header do ya'll think would fit best for my setup? I have contacted Randy NAh2B for his header, but still no reply. What about PLM, high end, Logic? I'm thinking of running Phearable ECU chipped with H22 basemap, as I don't want to run my p13 and throw all sorts of codes. The motor will be internally stock for now, as I want to get a baseline before building it. Basemap safe to run at strip with stock setup? Please let me know any advice or opinions you guys have, and I will keep on working on this build. 28 days and counting...
Second what Bently said. The Highend/logic performs really great, is affordable, and fits well. You can run a base map (assuming the base map is decent and Phearable should be) , but getting a dyno tune is in your best interest. Should be $300ish and is money well spent... my car picked up something like 30-35WHP after a tune vs basemap. That is a colossal gain for the money... then again the basemap may have been doodoo. I am running the H23A Blue Top which Honda rated at 197BHP, with bolt-ons and tune I made just over 218 WHP (250ishBHP), so you can see why I feel that a dyno tune is money well spent.
UPDATE:
Holy cow it's been a while. I've been working crazy hours and haven't had much time for much else. Full time student, full time worker, and full time father. Life gets in the way...
Anyways, more goodies came today: QSD kit with alternator relocation, and hoop prop. Highend header, new axles, and I picked up new tranny dowel pins. I'm gonna start shaving the block when I get off work tonight and hopefully put the flywheel, clutch, and tranny together today. I'll take plenty of pics and will post them later. It's gonna be a long night. Sleep is overrated anyways...
04-03-2015, 05:33 PM
When H met B.
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