Hellzone-1000

Hi, so ive gotten my 91 Dx up and running.
Rebuild motor D15B2 mini-me swap with z6 head with a chipped p28 auto ecu.
I did the chipping myself, all seems right as far as the computer. Today i realized i didn't have a jumper on Rp18, idk if that has anything to do with what is going on now but its now fixed and ecu is back in the car.

I just did the DPFI to MPFI and im using a Ebay OBD0 to OBD1, i get no CEL when running the car or with key on.
I get to 5k ish where Vtec is suppose to engage and then i get CEL 21.
I pulled the entire solenoid assembly to check the oil passages and it all seems fine, including the solenoid and plunger.
The oil control has been removed from the block as it is in the head from what i read.

Ideas ? Someone said its wiring.
Could it be that the Oil switch is wired backwards ? I tried powering the solenoid manually at all rpm's when driving and nothing changes.
I want my VTEC!

Here's the Cel video.

4drEF

<p>make sure you have good wiring. &nbsp;Look in the connectors and make sure the pins are going to make contact.</p><p>Try a known good ECU.</p>

Hellzone-1000

I don't have another ECU lol. SOL.
Im sure my wiring is good otherwise my injectors wouldn't be firing, and my Diz would not be working. Ive soldered everything and tubed it all.
Should i bypass the oil switch ?

I was reading this
Cel Code 21 VTec solenoid, Vtec not working FIX! - Interior / Audio / Electronics - CivicLife.net - Honda Civic Forum

4drEF

<p>Sure, that will work.</p><p>Since you are chipped&nbsp;you might as well burn&nbsp;another&nbsp;chip and disable the vtec pressure switch.</p>

Hellzone-1000

... im at a loss here. I don't know what to do. I tried grounding D6 straight to battery, nothing. Im still getting CEL 21.

Is there anything else besides the solenoid that would throw that code ? I tried doing a manual engagement to the solenoid with a button. Absolutely no crossover noise.
Oil related ? Maybe i need to try the JDM method ? This basemap is suppose to be a P28.

Honda ECU Non vtec to vtec Conversion Kit 1720 Board | eBay
This is the kit i installed into my P06, which says runs identical to a p28.
I assume its a p28 base map.

Ideas??
Im about to cry. I got all this stuff done and the 1 thing i wanted don't work.
Might as well left the B2 head and ran a Pm6.

Also here is the jumper harness im using. I dont need to ground all the ground wires do i ?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/361041615820?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

4drEF

<p>Only thing I can figure is your wiring. &nbsp;Try wiring directly to the ECU if you can.</p><p>Other thing would be a back vtec solenoid so try hooking some wires to it and touch those&nbsp;directly to battery to see if you can hear it click.</p>

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

Reset your ECU and do this:

The pressure switch should have 2 wires. The solenoid should have 2 wires. One side of the pressure switch has to be grounded. I suggest going straight to the thermostat housing for now. Then take the other wire and splice it into the solenoid wiring and wire to the jumper harness where it says to connect the VTEC solenoid.

If you are under the hood and you take a wire from the solenoid and touch the positive battery terminal, you should hear a distinct CLICK noise. If you do not, you likely have a bad solenoid. (4drEF already said this, my bad)

Hellzone-1000

Ive done numerous ECU resets.
The solenoid clicks, i pulled it off and put pressurized air to it while applying power. It works.
Solenoid only has 1 wire.
So your saying i need to T the wire that goes from ECU to solenoid into both the solenoid and 1 side of the pressure switch ?

4drEF

<p>No, that's not what I meant.<br />Every electrical part needs power and a ground. &nbsp;If you left the solenoid on the engine, then it's getting ground through the engine block. &nbsp;Then you would only need one wire to connect to the + battery.</p><p>More ECU resets probably not going to do anything. &nbsp;Run&nbsp;a wire from the solenoid direct to ECU to see if the problem is in your wiring.</p><p><img src="http://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/honda-tech.com-vbulletin/450x338/80-wiring_eea3d97a2fdbd4263476b231a738341938f71b15.jp g" title="" /></p><p><img src="http://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/honda-tech.com-vbulletin/1024x936/80-obd1pin_bc025842cb8acfde813518898cf7e62fe54ac63f.j pg" title="" /><br /><br /><br />&nbsp;</p>

Hellzone-1000

Im going to try straight from the ECU, i just ran a check light spliced into the solenoid wire near the plug.
The bulb does not light up, so power is not leaving the ECU to the solenoid or there is a break in the wire to the solenoid.
Im leaning towards ECU.....

Edit: Checked ECU. I found that i forgot to install J10 and R67. No more CEL, Vtec pops. Not hard but it pops.

Ef4doorwagon

Good job on figuring it out. Yeah you dont really feel or hear single cam vtec. You should notice your ef faster than when you were just stock mpfi, or Alot faster if you were dpfi. If you go dohc vtec, like a b16 you would definately hear and feel the vtec crossover.

4drEF

<p>Vtec isn't supposed to pop hard.</p><p>It's supposed to be gradual.</p><p>&nbsp;</p>

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

This is very true. Under low load I can hear the tone in the exhaust change around 6000 RPM. VTEC isn't like a nitrous button from F&F.