spooncvc

Hey guys,

Has anyone run into this problem? I swapped knuckles from a JDM EF8 into my USDM CRX Si. Everything bolts on, now I have a crazy "toe-in" problem. What is the easiest way to correct this? Do I need to change the steering rack? HELP!!!

grog

look towards the bottom of the page https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1104305

CRXBart

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spooncvc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey guys,

Has anyone run into this problem? I swapped knuckles from a JDM EF8 into my USDM CRX Si. Everything bolts on, now I have a crazy "toe-in" problem. What is the easiest way to correct this? Do I need to change the steering rack? HELP!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

In short the knuckle is different where the tie rod hooks on. You need a shorter tie rod from what I remember.

spooncvc

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by grog &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">look towards the bottom of the page https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1104305</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wow, this helps. Thank you.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXBart &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In short the knuckle is different where the tie rod hooks on. You need a shorter tie rod from what I remember. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I heard you might have to chop 1/2 inch from the tie rod....hmmm

spooncvc

spooncvc

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXBart &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

In short the knuckle is different where the tie rod hooks on. You need a shorter tie rod from what I remember. </TD></TR></TABLE>

do you know what tie rod I need?

ozrednsx

iTrader: (1)

i thought i would run into this problem as well. I had purchased EF8 SiR knuckles at passwordjdm and before even installing them i found out about the whole tie rod issue. Well it came down to either machining the oem tie rods and having the tie rod machined so that there is like half an inch more thread. But the easiest way around the whole machining was finding the EF8 tie rods which are different as well i believe they are half an inch shorter and will correct this whole toe in issue. But when i purchased the tie rods which took me a month to find i ended up not being able to use them and had to use my oem tie rods.

spooncvc

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ozrednsx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i thought i would run into this problem as well. I had purchased EF8 SiR knuckles at passwordjdm and before even installing them i found out about the whole tie rod issue. Well it came down to either machining the oem tie rods and having the tie rod machined so that there is like half an inch more thread. But the easiest way around the whole machining was finding the EF8 tie rods which are different as well i believe they are half an inch shorter and will correct this whole toe in issue. But when i purchased the tie rods which took me a month to find i ended up not being able to use them and had to use my oem tie rods.


</TD></TR></TABLE>

WOW....that really makes sense. I don't really think I want to machine anything. But yes, EF8/9 tie rods, if they are 1/2 in shorter, would do the trick. Do you still have the EF8 tie rods?

Tyson

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spooncvc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I heard you might have to chop 1/2 inch from the tie rod....hmmm
</TD></TR></TABLE>

this should be an easy solution.

shrug.

spooncvc

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

this should be an easy solution.

shrug.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah...either cutting the tie rod end by 1/2 inch or get EF8 SiR tie rods. but both ae kinda bothersome and may make me wanna change them back to stock brakes

jr94513

i would just do da integra front brakes

spooncvc

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jr94513 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would just do da integra front brakes</TD></TR></TABLE>

Then how off will the alignment be like?

Little_Nolan

iTrader: (3)

Brining this thread back from the dead in the hopes that I can get some more info with out starting a new thread.

I saw on some of the linked threads above that there is an issue getting the tie rods to line up and not cause series toe issues. Can anyone clarify exactly which tie rod is needed to make this work and if they need to be cut?

Deetz

Interested to know why people go to the trouble of trying to swap these jdm knuckles into their usdm cars...is there an advantage?

Little_Nolan

iTrader: (3)

This is why: To upgrade from the OEM 9.5" to the 10.3" SiR/DA/DC/EX sized brakes.. There are a decent amount of these knuckles in the states from all the front clips that have been shipped over in the last 15yrs or so, they are actually easier to obtain than the 90-91 EX knuckles for a lot of people.


The SIR knuckle has the exact geometry as all other EF's but is a lot beefier of a knuckle, however the tie rod connects in a slightly different location.

4drEF

They retain the stock geometry, are beefier/stronger, use the Integra disc (same as EX sedan), and have the larger integra wheel bearing.

All around better for a track car.

4drEF

Boostn92, it's the outer tie rods need to be cut.
That's all.
Easy.

KevinEF7

The 90-91 knuckle is easy enough to source, and usually for under $100 at a yard, and uses stock off the shelf Crx tie rods and wheel bearings. And you have a ton of stock brake options that bolt up to it.

There is also nothing wrong with the stock USDM crx si knuckle, a quality 9.5" setup is plenty for these cars but 10.3" brakes can be had for dirt cheap using oem parts, or an 11" itr setup can be had with simple bolton aftermarket adaptor brackets. Heck fastbrakes even sells a bracket for 11.8" rotors and Acura RL 4 piston calipers! If I had some 16's I would have that kit! Only $290

http://www.fastbrakes.com/product_p/civicrl.htm

Deetz

I went a different route also. Spent $400 on a lightly used Wilwood big brake kit....it' a 11" 2pc rotor, along with a 4 piston caliper that weights "half" what the oem setup is!

here's an old pic i took of the car before i got it parked for the winter. i have many different wheels for this setup