Maireeka

I Just swapped a used d16z6 into my CRX and I'm having a few problems.

Here are the symptoms:

-~20mpg city
-very ticky at idle, injectors or valves I'm not sure?
-low, rough idle when warm
-idle fluctuates when cold
-very abrupt on/off throttle below 2k rpms when in gear
-sometimes it jerks a lot (as if I got off the clutch too quickly) if i decel while in -gear to below 2k rpms
-my autometer a/f gauge reads rich at all times unless I get off the throttle, it only stoiches out when its on the way to being lean after I get off the throttle.

In a last ditch effort to get my idle up high enough for me to think it wasn't going to die, I adjusted the throttle a little tighter than it needed to be to crack it open a little.

The car pulls very well at most throttle positions, the problems while I'm moving are all very low throttle/low rpm issues. It doesn't use oil at all.

These three problems are also happening, but I think they may be unrelated to what I'm trying to fix:
-no Vtec
-temp gauge doesn't go up much past the very first mark
-radiator fan runs constantly

What do you guys think is broke? This is my pizza delivery vehicle and I'm really needing to get that mileage up to where it's supposed to be.

Tippyman

Got any CEL's?

Maireeka

No CELs. The ECU is a chipped P28. The chip is SUPPOSED to be a stock map for a d16y8, but I didn't buy it, so who knows. The reason it is chipped is that there was a high boost motor in the car before, and the chip was swapped accordingly.

Anybody have an idea? My pizza car needs better mileage!!

jakscivic

How rich is it saying it is. Because I got a chip from phaerable.net and it was suposed to be stock itr but it didnt work for some reason. I put it on a dyno and it was reading just fine idle but when they gave it gas it went all the way lean. Like off their charts lean. So it might be your chip. Or your o2 sensor might be a problem. If they arent hooked up or hooked up the wrong way then it will be a problem. It could be reading lean for some reason and so its trying to richen it out to compensate. The air to fuel mixture is most likely your problem with the idle as well. It might be running so rich its bogging your car down. You should also pull your dipstick out and smell the oil. If it smells of gas then you need to change your oil pronto. the gas in the oil will water the oil out a lot and your engine will get a lot of wear.

As for the ticking, get a rubber hose or something, but the opening has to be a good size. Maybe just small enough for your pinky to fit in or just a tad smaller. Then put that hose up to your ear and then put the other end over or on your valve cover, Then over or on your injectors. Which ever one is louder is most likely your problem. By using the hose it magnifies the sound and you can listen to a focused area where as your ear will be getting sounds from all over so its much harder to tell where a sound is comming from.

But it sounds like you got some problems after that. No vtec could be vacume, mechanical, or electrical. Change your thermostat and see if that helps your temp problem. And if you cant get the fan to turn off your fan switch might be stuck on. So you might want to either replace the fan switch, or cut the wires and run it into the interior to a manual switch. So whenever your at an idle, such as stopped at a red light, you just flip it on to keep cooler air cycling through the engine compartment.

Hope these ideas help out a little.

eda6

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Maireeka &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
-temp gauge doesn't go up much past the very first mark
-radiator fan runs constantly </TD></TR></TABLE>

both of those wires are yel/grn with female bullet connectors. switch them around and these two problems will go away.

jakscivic

^^^^ what he said. But if it doesnt then either get new switch, make a manual switch, or new thermostat to see if it helps.

Maireeka

fan is not the major problem, my &lt;20mpg is. Any ways to figure out why its running so rich?

jakscivic

Well, im not sure exactly how it is your running rich. I guess you could cut your o2 sensor wires, and im assuming they are one wire sensors. And then cut some of the plastic protection to expose wire. Then ground the o2 sensors out. I believe they should then be getting a signal that they are running rich, so it will then lean it out. But your o2 sensors might also be a problem. They might be non functioning. So that would mean you would need new o2 sensors. Or it also could be your chip in your ecu. And I have no idea how to diagnos that.

turbod da

[QUOTE=Maireeka]I Just swapped a used d16z6 into my CRX


what injectors r u using?the stock crx or the d16z6.
I might be wrong but correct me if i am but maybe on one
of your problem maybe using wrong injectors.due maybe
b/c your car has peakhold injectors.[resistor box] and you
maybe using the saturated ones............just my thoughts.

Super Chicken

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Maireeka &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No CELs. The ECU is a chipped P28. The chip is SUPPOSED to be a stock map for a d16y8, but I didn't buy it, so who knows. The reason it is chipped is that there was a high boost motor in the car before, and the chip was swapped accordingly.

Anybody have an idea? My pizza car needs better mileage!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Cut the jumper and run the stock map. I had the same problem with a "Chipped" P28 ECU that was not tuned for the engine.
I was running a stock Y8 with I/H/E and some "Skunk 2" chip with a higher V-tec etc.

I got ~28 MPG till I disabled the Skunk chip then I was getting 39-40 mpg all the time

AndrePerras

I 2nd this ! My friend had a problem like this... He swapped high impedence injectors into a low impedence system... Didnt work too well, and had no CEL.

Maireeka

edit:: plugging in the EICV does a lot.


Modified by Maireeka at 7:40 PM 12/30/2006

Maireeka

After hooking up the EICV, the car runs 10 times better. However, the gas mileage is WORSE!

The car now has a high, sometimes bouncy idle. It still does not warm up unless at a stop, this is with the fan unhooked. it sounds a little ticky at idle.

could it be the thermostat? would that adversely affect gas mileage?

no CELS, but i need to pull the carpet and look at the ecu to be sure.

HELP ME!!

Maireeka

anybody?

wiZCo

You said your throttle cable was set a little tighter, give it a little slack to get your idle to drop a little. You also should set the proper idle speed for your motor. If you're unsure of the proper procedure for each just consult a repair manual.

As far as the fluctuating idle and temp. problems, it could be two things: your idle is set too high and you have an air bubble in your coolant system. You also could have a stuck open thermostat. The high/fluctuating idle and low temp. readings are most likely contributing to your gas mileage because a) the motor idles too high and thus uses more fuel at rest than normal and b) your ECU thinks your engine is colder than it actually is and is causing a rich condition. I was running rich for a while and these three ended up being the culprits (along with a bad ECU).

Hope that helps a little. Anybody correct me if I'm wrong .

jakscivic

OK, well ive never heard of an EICV. Ive heard of an IACV on the back of the intake manyfold. If thats what your talking about then try to clean that. Just unbolt the two bolts then get a can of brake clean and spray it. You can then either wait until its dray or get a can of air, like whats used for cleaning key boards, or get an air nossle if you have an air compressor. Put it back on and that might help with some of your idle problems.

If you have an FITV, which is located under your TB. Here is a write up on how to adjust it. In the write up you dont have to take it all apart. You can just adjust it if you wanted. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1564019

And like the guy above me said. Adjust your throttle cable again. try and back it out a bit then adjust from there. To try and see if its your throttle cable just put the slightest pressure on your throttle pedal. If the rpms go up then your too tight. If you push down a little and the rpms dont go up then your fine.

hope this helps. I hate honda idle problems. So many solutions to try but none seem to work for the problem we have. Just hang in there, you will fix it. Just need to keep trying the different options.

wiZCo

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jakscivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I hate honda idle problems. So many solutions to try but none seem to work for the problem we have. </TD></TR></TABLE>

So true, so true.

Maireeka

I already fixed the throttle cable, and I'm pretty sure I was talking about the IACV, it's the one on the very back of the intake. I'll try cleaning it out, bleeding my coolant, and maybe swapping out my thermostat. I don't know how hard it is to swap out thermostats, though.

Smokinsax

double check your vacum lines...

Maireeka

replaced the thermostat with a known good one today, the underheating problem is gone.

Fixed throttle cable, idle is a little lower. Now that it's heating up right, the idle seems perfect. I think the computer was revving the car higher because it wasnt warm.

I'm filling the car up again today, maybe my gas mileage will be good now?

smokinsax, what are good vacuum readings? I have a boost gauge hooked up in the car that reads my vacuum, and i show around 20 in/hg at idle and close to 0 at wot.