i need 2 change the water pump my ef. help plz
08-12-2008, 09:30 PM
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i need 2 change the water pump my ef. help plz
well my ef the water pump need 2 replaced,, help plz can some 1 tell me wut do i need 2 do it.. any help will b good.. thanks
08-13-2008, 08:35 AM
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get a haynes book or a factory service manual first.
you will need a few tools.
if you are replacing the waterpump go ahead and do the timing belt also since the timing belt runs the water pump.
It is a day job to have it all done.
I can go through the steps but I think i might miss one or two. Get the book it will help out.
There are alot of steps but it can be done.
you will need a few tools.
if you are replacing the waterpump go ahead and do the timing belt also since the timing belt runs the water pump.
It is a day job to have it all done.
I can go through the steps but I think i might miss one or two. Get the book it will help out.
There are alot of steps but it can be done.
08-13-2008, 10:07 AM
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Re: i need 2 change the water pump my ef. help plz (bayron)
first off, if you are not 100% confident that YOU can do this yourself, get a mechanic to do this job. you have to take the timing belt off. if you don't know what you're doing, you don't want to go fooling around with engine timing. you can ruin your motor if your timing isn't PERFECT. if you think you CAN do it, here you go. THIS IS A TWO PERSON JOB unless you're an experienced mechanic.
what you need-- just to put the water pump on
10mm deep well 3/8
14 mm 3/8
3/8 drive and breaker bar (to tighten the tensioner back up)
--if you want to change the timing belt
19mm deep well 1/2
6" 1/2 extension
1/2 breaker bar
cam gear locking tool
-one of two tools to get the crank pulley off
harmonic balancer puller - use this if the crank pulley has 3 holes in it in a triangular pattern. rent this from your local parts store. typically you have to pay for it up-front, and they refund your $$ when you return it.
honda/acura crank pulley tool - use this if the 'hole' in the center of the crank is HEXAGONAL. it's a big bar with a haxagonal head that has a hole in the center to put your socket through.
i'm sorry, i don't know which kind of crank pulley the d series has off the top of my head.
what you do--
I agree, change the timing belt. Now, here's the bad part-if you want to make it easy on yourself, pull the motor. Trust me, you don't want the headache of trying to feed that new tight belt with the motor in it.
As far as the pump itself goes, all you need is a 10mm. use a 6pt, because those bolts are probably organically 'locked' from years of being on there. make sure the pump you get has a gasket with it. if not, buy a new gasket. you'll have to loosen the timing belt tensioner in order for the timing belt to be loose enough to get it off of the gear for the water pump. if i were you, i'd have someone who knew what they were doing there with me. here's why. when you loosen that tensioner (and only loosen it 1/2 turn) that timing belt is under alot of pressure. you want to MAKE SURE YOUR CAM DOES NOT MOVE. (if it does, make DAMN SURE it's back in time before you put the timing belt back on.) there's where the guy who knows what he's doing comes in handy. you can buy a tool to keep your cam gear locked in place, but that's like an extra $40. it is the safest way tho...
Ok, now your timing belt is loose and the water pump is ready to come out. unbolt it, put the new gasket in the back, and bolt it back in. torque the bolts until they are SNUG--NOT SUPER TIGHT. if you make them really tight, you'll damage the gasket and leak water.
Since your timing belt is off, like i said, change it. if you do change it, you have to take your crank pulley off. don't lose that freakin key-way that goes in the crank pulley! if you don't change it, you don't have take the crank pulley off. actually, if you don't change it, try to keep it on top of the cam gear and wrapped around the crank gear. have your buddy hold it in place while you fool with the pump.
but regardless of if you change it, or put the old one back on, the way you re-install it is important. you want to put it on the tensioner LAST. I would go over the cam gear, down the exhaust side, under the crank. STOP here-have the other person put one hand on top the cam gear and another on the exhaust side of the crank gear to hold it in place. while he holds it, run it from intake-side down the camgear and under the water pump. then go over the tensioner. remember, the smooth side of the belt touches the tensioner. push that tensioner up as far as you can to get the timing belt tight. you'll know it's tight enough when there is about 1/2 inch play in the exhaust side, and just less than that on intake side. make sure it's right. cause if not, you'll jump time. you can use a long bar to pry the tensioner up and get the timing belt tight. once you have everything tight, rotate the crank COUNTER-CLOCKWISE ONLY about 20 degrees. this should take the final amount of slack out. (an amount you won't be able to notice by looking at it)
if you do change the belt, re-tighten the crank pulley to about 130 ft-lbs of torque. put the timing cover back on and put the motor back in.
I also agree with having a service manual handy. you'll spend 20 bucks on it, but having it there step-by-step is way better than reading this post.
good luck. if you have any doubts at all, go to a shop and get the work done.
what you need-- just to put the water pump on
10mm deep well 3/8
14 mm 3/8
3/8 drive and breaker bar (to tighten the tensioner back up)
--if you want to change the timing belt
19mm deep well 1/2
6" 1/2 extension
1/2 breaker bar
cam gear locking tool
-one of two tools to get the crank pulley off
harmonic balancer puller - use this if the crank pulley has 3 holes in it in a triangular pattern. rent this from your local parts store. typically you have to pay for it up-front, and they refund your $$ when you return it.
honda/acura crank pulley tool - use this if the 'hole' in the center of the crank is HEXAGONAL. it's a big bar with a haxagonal head that has a hole in the center to put your socket through.
i'm sorry, i don't know which kind of crank pulley the d series has off the top of my head.
what you do--
I agree, change the timing belt. Now, here's the bad part-if you want to make it easy on yourself, pull the motor. Trust me, you don't want the headache of trying to feed that new tight belt with the motor in it.
As far as the pump itself goes, all you need is a 10mm. use a 6pt, because those bolts are probably organically 'locked' from years of being on there. make sure the pump you get has a gasket with it. if not, buy a new gasket. you'll have to loosen the timing belt tensioner in order for the timing belt to be loose enough to get it off of the gear for the water pump. if i were you, i'd have someone who knew what they were doing there with me. here's why. when you loosen that tensioner (and only loosen it 1/2 turn) that timing belt is under alot of pressure. you want to MAKE SURE YOUR CAM DOES NOT MOVE. (if it does, make DAMN SURE it's back in time before you put the timing belt back on.) there's where the guy who knows what he's doing comes in handy. you can buy a tool to keep your cam gear locked in place, but that's like an extra $40. it is the safest way tho...
Ok, now your timing belt is loose and the water pump is ready to come out. unbolt it, put the new gasket in the back, and bolt it back in. torque the bolts until they are SNUG--NOT SUPER TIGHT. if you make them really tight, you'll damage the gasket and leak water.
Since your timing belt is off, like i said, change it. if you do change it, you have to take your crank pulley off. don't lose that freakin key-way that goes in the crank pulley! if you don't change it, you don't have take the crank pulley off. actually, if you don't change it, try to keep it on top of the cam gear and wrapped around the crank gear. have your buddy hold it in place while you fool with the pump.
but regardless of if you change it, or put the old one back on, the way you re-install it is important. you want to put it on the tensioner LAST. I would go over the cam gear, down the exhaust side, under the crank. STOP here-have the other person put one hand on top the cam gear and another on the exhaust side of the crank gear to hold it in place. while he holds it, run it from intake-side down the camgear and under the water pump. then go over the tensioner. remember, the smooth side of the belt touches the tensioner. push that tensioner up as far as you can to get the timing belt tight. you'll know it's tight enough when there is about 1/2 inch play in the exhaust side, and just less than that on intake side. make sure it's right. cause if not, you'll jump time. you can use a long bar to pry the tensioner up and get the timing belt tight. once you have everything tight, rotate the crank COUNTER-CLOCKWISE ONLY about 20 degrees. this should take the final amount of slack out. (an amount you won't be able to notice by looking at it)
if you do change the belt, re-tighten the crank pulley to about 130 ft-lbs of torque. put the timing cover back on and put the motor back in.
I also agree with having a service manual handy. you'll spend 20 bucks on it, but having it there step-by-step is way better than reading this post.
good luck. if you have any doubts at all, go to a shop and get the work done.
08-13-2008, 07:43 PM
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Re: i need 2 change the water pump my ef. help plz (bayron)
If it's a D15B2 you can pull the crank pulley off by hand by wiggleing it off. Just watch where the woodruff key goes.
08-15-2008, 06:54 AM
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If your cranku pulley does not have the hex shape hole you cannot use the honda tool... My 90 si for example (d16a6) does not. I had to get a STRONG impact wrench to snag that bolt off.
08-15-2008, 04:04 PM
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Re: i need 2 change the water pump my ef. help plz (official-ef8)
Little un-nessacary to remove the engine for a timing belt isn't it? If your going that far it's time for an overhaul I'd think.
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08-16-2008, 12:13 PM
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Re: i need 2 change the water pump my ef. help plz (beige89civic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beige89civic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Little un-nessacary to remove the engine for a timing belt isn't it? If your going that far it's time for an overhaul I'd think.</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha
haha
11-09-2009, 09:24 PM
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Re: i need 2 change the water pump my ef. help plz (bayron)
first off, if you are not 100% confident that YOU can do this yourself, get a mechanic to do this job. you have to take the timing belt off. if you don't know what you're doing, you don't want to go fooling around with engine timing. you can ruin your motor if your timing isn't PERFECT. if you think you CAN do it, here you go. THIS IS A TWO PERSON JOB unless you're an experienced mechanic.
what you need-- just to put the water pump on
10mm deep well 3/8
14 mm 3/8
3/8 drive and breaker bar (to tighten the tensioner back up)
--if you want to change the timing belt
19mm deep well 1/2
6" 1/2 extension
1/2 breaker bar
cam gear locking tool
-one of two tools to get the crank pulley off
harmonic balancer puller - use this if the crank pulley has 3 holes in it in a triangular pattern. rent this from your local parts store. typically you have to pay for it up-front, and they refund your $$ when you return it.
honda/acura crank pulley tool - use this if the 'hole' in the center of the crank is HEXAGONAL. it's a big bar with a haxagonal head that has a hole in the center to put your socket through.
i'm sorry, i don't know which kind of crank pulley the d series has off the top of my head.
what you do--
I agree, change the timing belt. Now, here's the bad part-if you want to make it easy on yourself, pull the motor. Trust me, you don't want the headache of trying to feed that new tight belt with the motor in it.
As far as the pump itself goes, all you need is a 10mm. use a 6pt, because those bolts are probably organically 'locked' from years of being on there. make sure the pump you get has a gasket with it. if not, buy a new gasket. you'll have to loosen the timing belt tensioner in order for the timing belt to be loose enough to get it off of the gear for the water pump. if i were you, i'd have someone who knew what they were doing there with me. here's why. when you loosen that tensioner (and only loosen it 1/2 turn) that timing belt is under alot of pressure. you want to MAKE SURE YOUR CAM DOES NOT MOVE. (if it does, make DAMN SURE it's back in time before you put the timing belt back on.) there's where the guy who knows what he's doing comes in handy. you can buy a tool to keep your cam gear locked in place, but that's like an extra $40. it is the safest way tho...
Ok, now your timing belt is loose and the water pump is ready to come out. unbolt it, put the new gasket in the back, and bolt it back in. torque the bolts until they are SNUG--NOT SUPER TIGHT. if you make them really tight, you'll damage the gasket and leak water.
Since your timing belt is off, like i said, change it. if you do change it, you have to take your crank pulley off. don't lose that freakin key-way that goes in the crank pulley! if you don't change it, you don't have take the crank pulley off. actually, if you don't change it, try to keep it on top of the cam gear and wrapped around the crank gear. have your buddy hold it in place while you fool with the pump.
but regardless of if you change it, or put the old one back on, the way you re-install it is important. you want to put it on the tensioner LAST. I would go over the cam gear, down the exhaust side, under the crank. STOP here-have the other person put one hand on top the cam gear and another on the exhaust side of the crank gear to hold it in place. while he holds it, run it from intake-side down the camgear and under the water pump. then go over the tensioner. remember, the smooth side of the belt touches the tensioner. push that tensioner up as far as you can to get the timing belt tight. you'll know it's tight enough when there is about 1/2 inch play in the exhaust side, and just less than that on intake side. make sure it's right. cause if not, you'll jump time. you can use a long bar to pry the tensioner up and get the timing belt tight. once you have everything tight, rotate the crank COUNTER-CLOCKWISE ONLY about 20 degrees. this should take the final amount of slack out. (an amount you won't be able to notice by looking at it)
if you do change the belt, re-tighten the crank pulley to about 130 ft-lbs of torque. put the timing cover back on and put the motor back in.
I also agree with having a service manual handy. you'll spend 20 bucks on it, but having it there step-by-step is way better than reading this post.
good luck. if you have any doubts at all, go to a shop and get the work done.
what you need-- just to put the water pump on
10mm deep well 3/8
14 mm 3/8
3/8 drive and breaker bar (to tighten the tensioner back up)
--if you want to change the timing belt
19mm deep well 1/2
6" 1/2 extension
1/2 breaker bar
cam gear locking tool
-one of two tools to get the crank pulley off
harmonic balancer puller - use this if the crank pulley has 3 holes in it in a triangular pattern. rent this from your local parts store. typically you have to pay for it up-front, and they refund your $$ when you return it.
honda/acura crank pulley tool - use this if the 'hole' in the center of the crank is HEXAGONAL. it's a big bar with a haxagonal head that has a hole in the center to put your socket through.
i'm sorry, i don't know which kind of crank pulley the d series has off the top of my head.
what you do--
I agree, change the timing belt. Now, here's the bad part-if you want to make it easy on yourself, pull the motor. Trust me, you don't want the headache of trying to feed that new tight belt with the motor in it.
As far as the pump itself goes, all you need is a 10mm. use a 6pt, because those bolts are probably organically 'locked' from years of being on there. make sure the pump you get has a gasket with it. if not, buy a new gasket. you'll have to loosen the timing belt tensioner in order for the timing belt to be loose enough to get it off of the gear for the water pump. if i were you, i'd have someone who knew what they were doing there with me. here's why. when you loosen that tensioner (and only loosen it 1/2 turn) that timing belt is under alot of pressure. you want to MAKE SURE YOUR CAM DOES NOT MOVE. (if it does, make DAMN SURE it's back in time before you put the timing belt back on.) there's where the guy who knows what he's doing comes in handy. you can buy a tool to keep your cam gear locked in place, but that's like an extra $40. it is the safest way tho...
Ok, now your timing belt is loose and the water pump is ready to come out. unbolt it, put the new gasket in the back, and bolt it back in. torque the bolts until they are SNUG--NOT SUPER TIGHT. if you make them really tight, you'll damage the gasket and leak water.
Since your timing belt is off, like i said, change it. if you do change it, you have to take your crank pulley off. don't lose that freakin key-way that goes in the crank pulley! if you don't change it, you don't have take the crank pulley off. actually, if you don't change it, try to keep it on top of the cam gear and wrapped around the crank gear. have your buddy hold it in place while you fool with the pump.
but regardless of if you change it, or put the old one back on, the way you re-install it is important. you want to put it on the tensioner LAST. I would go over the cam gear, down the exhaust side, under the crank. STOP here-have the other person put one hand on top the cam gear and another on the exhaust side of the crank gear to hold it in place. while he holds it, run it from intake-side down the camgear and under the water pump. then go over the tensioner. remember, the smooth side of the belt touches the tensioner. push that tensioner up as far as you can to get the timing belt tight. you'll know it's tight enough when there is about 1/2 inch play in the exhaust side, and just less than that on intake side. make sure it's right. cause if not, you'll jump time. you can use a long bar to pry the tensioner up and get the timing belt tight. once you have everything tight, rotate the crank COUNTER-CLOCKWISE ONLY about 20 degrees. this should take the final amount of slack out. (an amount you won't be able to notice by looking at it)
if you do change the belt, re-tighten the crank pulley to about 130 ft-lbs of torque. put the timing cover back on and put the motor back in.
I also agree with having a service manual handy. you'll spend 20 bucks on it, but having it there step-by-step is way better than reading this post.
good luck. if you have any doubts at all, go to a shop and get the work done.
Geat post!! Very informal thank you for that
11-10-2009, 07:46 AM
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Re: i need 2 change the water pump my ef. help plz
I don't like that write up, but I guess....
Makes it sound way harder than it is - it's so NOT a two person job and WHY would you pull the motor. Seems like the write up is probably for a B motor.
D-series is easily done in the car, require no special 'cam locking tool' and is totally a one person job. Can be done by an inexperienced mechanic that has a service manual (please don't buy a junky Haynes or Chilton.)
Makes it sound way harder than it is - it's so NOT a two person job and WHY would you pull the motor. Seems like the write up is probably for a B motor.
D-series is easily done in the car, require no special 'cam locking tool' and is totally a one person job. Can be done by an inexperienced mechanic that has a service manual (please don't buy a junky Haynes or Chilton.)
11-10-2009, 08:21 AM
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Re: i need 2 change the water pump my ef. help plz
Yeah, sounds a little harder than it is. I have a 91 hatch STD and I replaced the waterpump without removing the crank pull bolt (couldn't get it off and didn't have air tools). I cut out the cover around the pump and just slid off the belt from the pump. Don't try this at home, if you don't know what you are doing, you could cut your timing belt, then you got problems!
My water pump was making so much noise, I didn't dare drive it to a garage.
Tip: If you can, take your car to a garage and have them loosen the crank bolt with their air tools, then you tighten it with your 1/2 inch breaker bar. I did this once on another hatch I owned and gave the guy $5.00 for doing it. Only takes them a minute to do.
On my engine, you can change the timing belt easy enough w/the engine in the car, just remove the right engine mount.
My water pump was making so much noise, I didn't dare drive it to a garage.
Tip: If you can, take your car to a garage and have them loosen the crank bolt with their air tools, then you tighten it with your 1/2 inch breaker bar. I did this once on another hatch I owned and gave the guy $5.00 for doing it. Only takes them a minute to do.
On my engine, you can change the timing belt easy enough w/the engine in the car, just remove the right engine mount.
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