djphonics Project Log, 1988 CRX Si (lots of pics!).
12-28-2006, 05:13 AM
#101
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Re: (djphonics)
That control arm looks good.
Actually, one of the reasons SPC and alot of other co.s went away from the solid camber upper arm was because it would bottom out hard on the frame, much worse than the one on your car. Honda Accords were terrible about doing it...they were also a PITA to notch out....but anyway
for progress
Actually, one of the reasons SPC and alot of other co.s went away from the solid camber upper arm was because it would bottom out hard on the frame, much worse than the one on your car. Honda Accords were terrible about doing it...they were also a PITA to notch out....but anyway
for progress
12-28-2006, 07:29 AM
#102
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Re: (Autoworks)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Autoworks »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That control arm looks good.
Actually, one of the reasons SPC and alot of other co.s went away from the solid camber upper arm was because it would bottom out hard on the frame</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, in my experience most camber kits will do that, not just the full upper arm ones. For instance, the ingalls kit will move the stock upper arm out enough that it will hit the frame, and if you dont realize it and fix it right away, it will pop out your upper ball joint while you are driving.....
I havent tried one of the eccentric ball joint camber kits, but it seems like they might clear without hitting. I have just always thought that they looked hard to adjust.
Actually, one of the reasons SPC and alot of other co.s went away from the solid camber upper arm was because it would bottom out hard on the frame</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, in my experience most camber kits will do that, not just the full upper arm ones. For instance, the ingalls kit will move the stock upper arm out enough that it will hit the frame, and if you dont realize it and fix it right away, it will pop out your upper ball joint while you are driving.....
I havent tried one of the eccentric ball joint camber kits, but it seems like they might clear without hitting. I have just always thought that they looked hard to adjust.
12-28-2006, 07:37 AM
#103
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Re: (MatHadder)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MatHadder »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Well, in my experience most camber kits will do that, not just the full upper arm ones. For instance, the ingalls kit will move the stock upper arm out enough that it will hit the frame, and if you dont realize it and fix it right away, it will pop out your upper ball joint while you are driving.....
I</TD></TR></TABLE>
Those archaic ***** are garbage IMO. Yes, they also cause the same problem by pushing the uppercontrol arm out. The adjustable ball joint by SPC is the best. All the others like djphonics has and Skunk 2 are nice as well and work "properly". You run into too many fitment problems with the older style Ingalls/knockoff or whatever kits.
Besides popping out the upper bj, it would also make plenty of noise (like gunshots) as the uca would slap the frame.
Well, in my experience most camber kits will do that, not just the full upper arm ones. For instance, the ingalls kit will move the stock upper arm out enough that it will hit the frame, and if you dont realize it and fix it right away, it will pop out your upper ball joint while you are driving.....
I</TD></TR></TABLE>
Those archaic ***** are garbage IMO. Yes, they also cause the same problem by pushing the uppercontrol arm out. The adjustable ball joint by SPC is the best. All the others like djphonics has and Skunk 2 are nice as well and work "properly". You run into too many fitment problems with the older style Ingalls/knockoff or whatever kits.
Besides popping out the upper bj, it would also make plenty of noise (like gunshots) as the uca would slap the frame.
01-09-2007, 08:54 PM
#104
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Re: (Autoworks)
Well, I only have one more order (new Rear Trailing Arm bushings), and I'm ready to install my suspension. I'm gonna install everything this weekend. I got the correct Koni's back from Ground Control (they sent me Del Sol ones last time 
).
I got some new stuff. All new Poly bushings in the LCA's for the rear disc swap, plus painted the arms with some wheel coating:
Links for the front sway bar (stock ones are FUBAR):
And the ST rear sway bar
:
I will post up this weekend when I install ALL of my suspension ****.
). I got some new stuff. All new Poly bushings in the LCA's for the rear disc swap, plus painted the arms with some wheel coating:
Links for the front sway bar (stock ones are FUBAR):
And the ST rear sway bar
:I will post up this weekend when I install ALL of my suspension ****.
01-12-2007, 05:43 PM
#107
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Re: (Autoworks)
Got most of the ZC rebuild parts in from Honda. There is some other **** coming from Acura too (mre ZC specific parts).
Here is the OEM goodness:
I also picked up some new bumper lights (they are cheap), brake and clutch pedal covers, and the little rubber seal thing for the rear wiper (mine is all crusty and old):
I'm going to start this weekend on all the suspension install.
Here is the OEM goodness:
I also picked up some new bumper lights (they are cheap), brake and clutch pedal covers, and the little rubber seal thing for the rear wiper (mine is all crusty and old):
I'm going to start this weekend on all the suspension install.
01-12-2007, 08:26 PM
#109
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Re: (ESP-net)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Autoworks »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Those LCA's look great with the new bushings </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks. I painted the arms with that Duplicolor Performance Wheel Coating. It seems to be pretty tough and looks pretty sweet. It just so happens to match the frame paint on my old motorcycle (Yam FZR600), so I just had it laying around and I said expletive it and painted the arms with it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ESP-net »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">good build DJ that revo kit wont help negative camber correct? also if someone did leave the hardware up top will it hit with a 2-3" drop? even after moving the fender casting (torched out) ?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks.
The kit is designed to add positive camber, thus it WILL help with negative camber, if that's what you're saying. It will not add negative camber. I think it does like +3 and -0 degrees.
Having the hardware on top will cause no problems. I did it simply so that it would be easier to adjust, not for clearance. I don't know how far you can drop, but the arm is very similar to the stock arm, so basically if you dumped your car so far as to have the stock arms hitting then you will hit with the Revos. Hope that helps.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Thanks. I painted the arms with that Duplicolor Performance Wheel Coating. It seems to be pretty tough and looks pretty sweet. It just so happens to match the frame paint on my old motorcycle (Yam FZR600), so I just had it laying around and I said expletive it and painted the arms with it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ESP-net »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">good build DJ
that revo kit wont help negative camber correct? also if someone did leave the hardware up top will it hit with a 2-3" drop? even after moving the fender casting (torched out) ?</TD></TR></TABLE>Thanks.
The kit is designed to add positive camber, thus it WILL help with negative camber, if that's what you're saying. It will not add negative camber. I think it does like +3 and -0 degrees.
Having the hardware on top will cause no problems. I did it simply so that it would be easier to adjust, not for clearance. I don't know how far you can drop, but the arm is very similar to the stock arm, so basically if you dumped your car so far as to have the stock arms hitting then you will hit with the Revos. Hope that helps.
01-13-2007, 09:14 AM
#112
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Re: (CBURKE)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CBURKE »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you ordering everything from a Honda dealer, or do you have a web site?</TD></TR></TABLE>
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXone »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i like the direction this build is going. </TD></TR></TABLE>
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXone »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i like the direction this build is going. </TD></TR></TABLE>
01-13-2007, 11:04 AM
#113
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Re: (djphonics)
im in eugene and autox here. in sm2 and its not that bad. but good stuff in the rex.
that sway bar oh god just dont whip it to hard or it will come out. i am putting a landrover sway on the front. hope it helps and good luck with the car/ maybe come down to eugene and run with us.
http://www.eescc.org
that sway bar oh god just dont whip it to hard or it will come out. i am putting a landrover sway on the front. hope it helps and good luck with the car/ maybe come down to eugene and run with us.
http://www.eescc.org
01-13-2007, 08:26 PM
#114
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Re: (98lude-t)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98lude-t »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im in eugene and autox here. in sm2 and its not that bad. but good stuff in the rex.
that sway bar oh god just dont whip it to hard or it will come out. i am putting a landrover sway on the front. hope it helps and good luck with the car/ maybe come down to eugene and run with us.
http://www.eescc.org </TD></TR></TABLE>
Cool man, I come down to Eugene a lot. I will try and check it out. Thanks.
that sway bar oh god just dont whip it to hard or it will come out. i am putting a landrover sway on the front. hope it helps and good luck with the car/ maybe come down to eugene and run with us.
http://www.eescc.org
</TD></TR></TABLE>Cool man, I come down to Eugene a lot. I will try and check it out. Thanks.
01-13-2007, 08:29 PM
#115
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Re: (djphonics)
Despite it being about 20 degrees in my garage, I got started on the suspension install.
Ground Controls/Konis up front:
Replaced the fucked stock front sway bar endlinks with Prothane units:
Got one side of the '91 Si rear disk swap in, along with the Revo rear camber kit. New poly busings in the LCAs, and brand new Honda/Mugen? Rear Trailing Arm bushings:
I'll get the other side done tomorrow and bleed the brakes/hook up the E-brake. Then it will be time to go get an alignment.
Ground Controls/Konis up front:
Replaced the fucked stock front sway bar endlinks with Prothane units:
Got one side of the '91 Si rear disk swap in, along with the Revo rear camber kit. New poly busings in the LCAs, and brand new Honda/Mugen? Rear Trailing Arm bushings:
I'll get the other side done tomorrow and bleed the brakes/hook up the E-brake. Then it will be time to go get an alignment.
01-15-2007, 12:02 AM
#118
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Re: (sleepless247)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sleepless247 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">pmed and subscribed!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Replied. Thanks.
--------------------------------------------------------------
Ok, today I finished the suspension install (along with help from my roommate ). This project actually ended up taking around 20 hours of work because the brake stuff really slowed it down. Changing the proportioning valve was an absolute BITCH because I still have AC in my car and all the lines run right over the damn prop. valve. : I'm gonna get the damn thing evacuated and rip that AC bullshit out ASAP. My only other issue is that the ST swaybar rubs on my exhaust and makes a funky rattling sound at idle. 
I'm going to take the car to get an alignment tomorrow. Anyway, here are the pics:
Rear disk brake hottness:
Rear disk brake hottness through the wheel :
With the ST bar installed. BTW, I'm not too impressed with the fit and finish of this product. The braket that attaches the endlinks to the shock mount are an absolute joke. I've always heard this bar works well though, so I'm running it:
I had to buy a set of these for this project. They are a LIFESAVER! If you try and loosen the 10mm flare nuts on your old braklines with a regular box wrench, they will amost certainly strip! I got a set of 5 double ended ones from Sears (they are Craftsman Professional) for $35. Well worth it...
And here is the money shot (best angle I could get in the garage ):
Replied. Thanks.
--------------------------------------------------------------
Ok, today I finished the suspension install (along with help from my roommate
). This project actually ended up taking around 20 hours of work because the brake stuff really slowed it down. Changing the proportioning valve was an absolute BITCH because I still have AC in my car and all the lines run right over the damn prop. valve. : I'm gonna get the damn thing evacuated and rip that AC bullshit out ASAP. My only other issue is that the ST swaybar rubs on my exhaust and makes a funky rattling sound at idle. I'm going to take the car to get an alignment tomorrow. Anyway, here are the pics:Rear disk brake hottness:
Rear disk brake hottness through the wheel
:With the ST bar installed. BTW, I'm not too impressed with the fit and finish of this product. The braket that attaches the endlinks to the shock mount are an absolute joke
. I've always heard this bar works well though, so I'm running it:I had to buy a set of these for this project. They are a LIFESAVER! If you try and loosen the 10mm flare nuts on your old braklines with a regular box wrench, they will amost certainly strip! I got a set of 5 double ended ones from Sears (they are Craftsman Professional) for $35. Well worth it...
And here is the money shot (best angle I could get in the garage
):
01-15-2007, 07:47 PM
#119
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Very nice you'll have lots of fun with that autocrossing! Check out my myspace page in my sig! I've got some autox vids in my blog of me driving my DC2,EG6, EG2 and my buddies 350Z!
01-16-2007, 04:20 AM
#121
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Re: (crazykamper)
The rear setup looks great
Every ST rear bar I've ever installed has hit the exhuast...but they do work well. I had to have an extra "frame hanger" added to mine to pull my exhaust over and off the bar.
Every ST rear bar I've ever installed has hit the exhuast...but they do work well. I had to have an extra "frame hanger" added to mine to pull my exhaust over and off the bar.
01-16-2007, 10:28 AM
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Re: (Autoworks)
Thanks for the comments.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Autoworks »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The rear setup looks great
Every ST rear bar I've ever installed has hit the exhuast...but they do work well. I had to have an extra "frame hanger" added to mine to pull my exhaust over and off the bar.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks. It seems like ST could have done a little more design work to make that thing fit better.
Do you have any suggestions for an exhaust system that will offer the best clearance near that swaybar?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Autoworks »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The rear setup looks great
Every ST rear bar I've ever installed has hit the exhuast...but they do work well. I had to have an extra "frame hanger" added to mine to pull my exhaust over and off the bar.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks. It seems like ST could have done a little more design work to make that thing fit better.
Do you have any suggestions for an exhaust system that will offer the best clearance near that swaybar?
01-16-2007, 12:05 PM
#124
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Re: (TypeKoshiR)
Not sure where the ST sway bar rubs the exhuast, but I use hose clamps around my rubber hangers to bring the exhaust up closer to the car. I do it mostly because I like the exhaust tip to be close to the bumper.
01-17-2007, 10:32 PM
#125
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Re: (TypeKoshiR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TypeKoshiR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Looks really nice
and like everybody said rear set up is looking very good
Keep it goin'
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicandy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not sure where the ST sway bar rubs the exhuast, but I use hose clamps around my rubber hangers to bring the exhaust up closer to the car. I do it mostly because I like the exhaust tip to be close to the bumper. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Good tip. I will look into something like that.
and like everybody said rear set up is looking very good
Keep it goin'
</TD></TR></TABLE>Thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicandy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not sure where the ST sway bar rubs the exhuast, but I use hose clamps around my rubber hangers to bring the exhaust up closer to the car. I do it mostly because I like the exhaust tip to be close to the bumper. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Good tip. I will look into something like that.