Blown90hatcH

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbogixxer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
OBD-0 ----&gt; OBD1
Orange ----- Orange
small white --- white
Org/blue --- Org/blu
White/blue ---- White/blue
Fat white ----- yel/grn</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just for people looking onto this thread. If you build a harness to the schematics listed on page one, make sure you match the colors on the distributor....of course with the exception of the fat white (pre-obd) to the yel/grn (obd1). Do not follow the schematics on page one and then try and wire the distributor like it has in the service manuals.

Turbogixxer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blown90hatcH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">of course with the exception of the fat white (pre-obd) to the yel/grn (obd1). Do not follow the schematics on page one and then try and wire the distributor like it has in the service manuals.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You mind explaining this? I do not think I follow all the way.

dr_latino999

OBD-1 Colors and and explanations.

dr_latino999

So it should read at distributor (color wise)


Plug A
Blue/Yellow (-)- CYL --&gt; Blue/Yellow (-)- CYL
Blue/Green (+)- CYL --&gt; Blue/Green (+)- CYL
White (-)- CYP --&gt; White (-)- CYP
Orange (+)- CYP --&gt; Orange (+)- CYP
White/Blue (-)- TDC --&gt; White/Blue (-)- TDC
Orange/Blue (+)- TDC --&gt; Green (+) - TDC
White - Ignitor --&gt; Yellow/Green - Ignitor

Plug 2
Blue - RPM --&gt; Blue - RPM
Black/Yellow (POWER) --&gt; Black Yellow

ECU Locations (Same Order)
C02 --&gt; B16
C01 --&gt; B15
B12 --&gt; B12
B10 --&gt; B11
C04 --&gt; B14
C03 --&gt; B13

WHICH IS IGNITOR TO PLUG ONE - B15(OBD-0)/A21 (OBD-1) or B17(OBD-0)/A22(OBD-1)?

At key on, I have twelve volts steady to the black/yellow wire on plug 2. On Plug 1, I have no 12 volts any of the time, even while cranking.

Import_lifestyle

so have you picked up the ecu yet..any luck..i need to look at your dizzy and compare it to mine..cuz i fucked with the placement of the wires in the plug and ****..though they all color match...ie blue is connected to blue...i wanna make sure...before i go out and spend the money on the dizzy...

dr_latino999

<FONT SIZE="6">IT RUNS IT RUNS IT RUNS IT RUNS IT RUNS IT RUNS IT RUNS IT RUNS IT RUNS IT RUNS IT RUNS IT RUNS IT RUNS IT RUNS </FONT>

Location of A21 and A22 do matter, I cut and switched those wires at the ECU and the car fired up

vegaskurt

Congrats

vtecn8ive

Damn man good *** job. haha here I found on one of my Car Manual CDs a DIY obdo-1 harness. Wish I would have found it prior maybe I could have had some more input

vtecn8ive

Was a subharness needed? What was all needed and where does it hook up? Sorry read through and kinda missed it if it was posted.

How does the 4 wire oxygen sensor get hooked up? Does it matter which wire goes where on the 4 wire hook up?

-Shane

goforbroke

Engine Harness Oxygen Sensor Function
green/blue green or gray ground
white/red white signal
yellow/black black power
orange/black black heater


*If anyone might know this I have a 02 sensor that has 2 white wires. The two white wires our in the location of the two black wires. Do you still think they will wire up in the same location as the power & heater.

vtecn8ive

see thats what I am wondering too errrr.

dr_latino999

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecn8ive &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Was a subharness needed? What was all needed and where does it hook up? Sorry read through and kinda missed it if it was posted.

How does the 4 wire oxygen sensor get hooked up? Does it matter which wire goes where on the 4 wire hook up?

-Shane</TD></TR></TABLE> A subharness was technically needed, nothing as clean though as what the other manufacturers provide. I ran the extra wires through the main harness where they exited into a canon plug mated with the wires from the ECU.

You can see the extra wires poking out of the harness and the lead from the chassis to the engine bay.

vtecn8ive

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by goforbroke &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Engine Harness Oxygen Sensor Function
green/blue green or gray ground
white/red white signal
yellow/black black power
orange/black black heater


*If anyone might know this I have a 02 sensor that has 2 white wires. The two white wires our in the location of the two black wires. Do you still think they will wire up in the same location as the power & heater.</TD></TR></TABLE>


dr_latino999 is this how you have your 02 sensor? (just curious)


And thanks I did notice those extra wires. Time to get back on this wire harness . yay all I have to do now is solder the wiring and the conversion will be done how you did it

I guess my only two concerns are the EGR wiring and the o2 wiring.

I lack EGR wiring on my harness do I still need to add the wiring?
And just want to make sure the 02 senor wiring is hooked up like goforbroke's diagram.

-Shane

vtecn8ive

Okay harness is all done. The only thing I am unsure of is the EGR wiring. I noticed on my CRX wiring it doesn't have it so I am assuming I don't need it on my conversion harness?

vtecn8ive

Good news I found some info on the 02 sensor. And I am going to leave out the EGR wiring out since i dont' have it on my wire harness as is.

I have a drawing of how the o2 sensor is hooked up. I will try to post it today or tomorrow.

-Shane

vtecn8ive

Here goes some info from one of my DIY disc I bought from ebay. Hope it helps. I still have a drawing to post up.. later though

Convert OBD-0 To OBD-1

There are several changes that must be made to run a 1992-1995 motor in a 1988-1991 car. I find it is best to modify the 1988-1991 harnesses rather than trying to make the 1992-1995-harness work. The changes are as follows:

1. Change the distributer plugs. This is actually quite straightforward. There are two plugs. One has seven wires. The other has two. With the seven wire plugs, you will find that there are six thin wires and one thicker one. The thin wires are collectively the same colors on the 1988-1991 harnesses as on the 1992-1995 harnesses. Stick the pins on the 1988-1991 harnesses into the spots where like colored wires went on the 1992-1995 harnesses. In other words, stick the orange wire on the 1988-1991 harness where the orange wire went on the 1992-1995 harnesses. The exception is the fatter wire for the Ignitor signal. This wire is white on the 1988-1991 harnesses and yellow/green on the 1992-1995 harnesses. Stick the thicker white wire on the 1988-1991 harness to the spot occupied by the yellow/green wire on the 1992-1995 harnesses. Of course, if you have a DPFI model, you will need to add wires for the CYP sensor. The other plug has a thick black/yellow wire and a thin blue wire on both harnesses. Simply stick the wires in the same spots or connect like colors.

2. Change and relocate the thermo switch plug. The thermo switch is located on the back of the block by the oil pressure-sending unit on 1988-1991 engines. It has a yellow/green and a black wire connected to it. On 1992-1995 engines, it is located on the thermostat housing. And the plug has a green and black wire connected to it. You must remove the plug on the 1988-1991 harnesses and solder on the corresponding plug on the 1992-1995 harnesses. When you cut this plug from the 1992-1995 harnesses, make sure to leave enough wire connected to it so that it will reach to the thermostat housing.

3. Change injector plugs and that eliminates the resistor box. This is fairly straightforward if you have an HF/SI. Simply connect like colors on the ECU side of the plug. On the hot side, it may actually be easier if you use the complete 1992-1995 wire all the way back to the 8-wire connector. Then you can connect the 8-wire connector where the injector resistor was. This saves time and soldering. Of course, if you have a DPFI model, you will need to add the 8-wire connector to the wire going to the hot side of the injectors and add two wires from the extra injectors to the ECU plugs in the passenger cabin.

4. Reroute the wires coming over the intake manifold. On 1988-1991 HF and SI models, there are a couple of wires (I forget which) coming up and over the intake manifold from around the distributor. Although this is not absolutely necessary, they should be rerouted under the manifold for a clean, stock appearance. This also allows you to use the 1992-1995 injector wire holder. I should note that this is not necessary with a DPFI model. This is the one case where a DX is actually easier!

5. Add the four-wire oxygen sensor. This is not nearly as hard as it may seem. Use the original, shielded sensor lead on the 1988-1991 harnesses for the sensor output. Connect the sensor ground to the green/white wire that forms the sensor ground for the TPS, IAT, and CTS on the 1988-1991 harnesses. Connect the heater hot to the 8-wire connector on the hot side of the injector. And run a separate wire for the heater control to the ECU plugs in the passenger cabin.

6. Add wires for the VTEC solenoid, VTEC pressure switch, and knock sensor. This is only necessary with a B16A. If you are swapping in a B18A/B18B, none of this is necessary. With a D16Z6, the knock sensor is not necessary. And with the B18C, you will need to add one more
wire for the IAB. In any case, this is no different from the changes required for a 1988-1991 B16A. Just remember to ground the black lead on the VTEC pressure switch, use a shielded wire for the knock sensor, and ground the shield.

7. Relocate the wires to the MAP sensor and purge valve. The MAP sensor plug may actually reach the throttle body mounted MAP sensor on the 1992-1995 engine. But you may want to extend it so that you can neatly mount the wire to the firewall. If you extend it, you may want to use the 1992-1995 gray plug for a neater, more stock look. For the purge valve, you will need to extend the wires to valve on the driver's side of the intake manifold. If you have an SI, you will need to run a hot (in start/run) wire to the valve. Connect this wire to the yellow/black wire on the plug for the solenoid. Connect the other wire to the existing lead to the ECU. This is not a problem with DPFI or HF models, as they already have a hot wire going to the solenoid (The ECU grounds it rather than sending power to it).

8. Depending on the model Civic/CRX you have and the engine you swap in, you may need to extend or shorten a few wires (like the TPS, IACV, etc.) in order to make the harness fit better. If you must lengthen wires, it is easier if you just cut the plug from the 1992-1995 harnesses with the length of wire you need. You will then only need to make one solder per wire. It will also look neater. Of course, the 1988-1991 plugs WILL work for any of the other plugs, which I did not specifically say, must be changed.

dr_latino999

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecn8ive &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Okay harness is all done. The only thing I am unsure of is the EGR wiring. I noticed on my CRX wiring it doesn't have it so I am assuming I don't need it on my conversion harness?</TD></TR></TABLE> Correct, EGR was only on the HF to my knowledge....I think, so we don't have to worry about it at all.

vtecn8ive

did you figure out your oxygen sensor?

Also anybody know if I am using the stock a6 dizzy (with chopped legs) if I need to repin/cut the existing plug to get it to work? I don't think so well I am going to plug it in and see if I did eveything right!!!

dr_latino999

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecn8ive &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you figure out your oxygen sensor?

Also anybody know if I am using the stock a6 dizzy (with chopped legs) if I need to repin/cut the existing plug to get it to work? I don't think so well I am going to plug it in and see if I did eveything right!!!</TD></TR></TABLE> Wait wait wait, you can't use the A6 distributor, you would need the B7 distributor with chopped legs as the OBD-1 and OBD-0 Distributors fire at different rates (sensors and such). And no, my sensor hasn't been figured out but that is partly because my motor spun a bearing.

vtecn8ive

haha yeah just figured that out. tried starting wouldn't fire right . Oh well. yeah I got a d16z6 dizzy I'll have to hook that up (finally ) working on my dizzy jumper harness, lol, I know I could just switch the plugs around but might as well get better at making jumper harness hehe.

It should be down in like 20 minutes and then after I get it going I'll need to figure out my o2 sensor.

How do you you read obd1 Check Engine lights? stupid question but I am used to watchign the blinks

dr_latino999

Jump the service connector (the little thingy you jump to set timing) and the CEL will blink like the little red dot.

vtecn8ive

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Jump the service connector (the little thingy you jump to set timing) and the CEL will blink like the little red dot.</TD></TR></TABLE>


uh.. lol not even sure what you mean by service connector that you use to jump the timing? There is a cel on the ecu or on the guage cluster? lol sorry man still a learner I guess .

-Shane

Turbogixxer

vtecn8ive

hey turbogixxer thanks for the help on this man.

also i saw my buddy do this awhile ago using a paper clip?

dr_latino999

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecn8ive &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey turbogixxer thanks for the help on this man.

also i saw my buddy do this awhile ago using a paper clip?</TD></TR></TABLE> A paper clip will work.